Cam sensor failure??
Cam sensor failure??
Just finished an intake replacement with an Edelbrock. Friend of mine hooked up his diagnostic tool to the car and it indicates a Cam Sensor Failure. Does anyone know where this part is located on the block??? Expensive fix???
I'm not familiar with the what it is, where it is, and how much$ ...
Thanks for any suggestions
I'm not familiar with the what it is, where it is, and how much$ ...
Thanks for any suggestions
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 27,861
Likes: 2,427
Car: Yes
Engine: Usually
Transmission: Sometimes
Axle/Gears: Behind me somewhere
1. Does the car run?
2. Why are you hooking a scan tool up to it?
3. These cars don't have a "cam sensor", because they use a conventional distributor. If the scan tool says anything about "cam sensor", it's got the wrong program for one of these.
2. Why are you hooking a scan tool up to it?
3. These cars don't have a "cam sensor", because they use a conventional distributor. If the scan tool says anything about "cam sensor", it's got the wrong program for one of these.
1. Car runs very well, especially with the new intake, but trying to set the timing.
2. The check engine light comes on as it did before the intake replacement. I have the old GM tool that you can plug into computer, but instead chose to use a digital readout this time. It determined that my O2 sensor wasnt working (its a new one), engine still running lean, and a cam sensor failure.
3. I've never seen one on my car either.
Do you know what my next step should be? A month ago I took my car to the Pontiac dealer for diagnostics. They advised there was an intake gasket leak and the carb needed to be rebuilt (their reason to rebuild was due to the elevation change between where i purchased the car in Milwaukee and Denver where I live). Im not sure i agree about the carburetor and the dealer wanted $1000 for the job so i decided to do it myself. Its completed today, but still have a check engine light.
Please let me know what you think. Thanks alot!! Mike
oh, sorry forgot to mention what car i have. mint 1984 TA 305HO with low original miles, automatic with G in the VIN.
2. The check engine light comes on as it did before the intake replacement. I have the old GM tool that you can plug into computer, but instead chose to use a digital readout this time. It determined that my O2 sensor wasnt working (its a new one), engine still running lean, and a cam sensor failure.
3. I've never seen one on my car either.
Do you know what my next step should be? A month ago I took my car to the Pontiac dealer for diagnostics. They advised there was an intake gasket leak and the carb needed to be rebuilt (their reason to rebuild was due to the elevation change between where i purchased the car in Milwaukee and Denver where I live). Im not sure i agree about the carburetor and the dealer wanted $1000 for the job so i decided to do it myself. Its completed today, but still have a check engine light.
Please let me know what you think. Thanks alot!! Mike
oh, sorry forgot to mention what car i have. mint 1984 TA 305HO with low original miles, automatic with G in the VIN.
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From: Saskatoon, SK, Canada
Car: '83 Z28, '07 Charger SRT8
Engine: 454ci, 6.1 Hemi
Transmission: TH350, A5
Axle/Gears: 2.73 posi, 3.06 posi
Trying to set the timing? All you need is a timing light for that. Thats all you need with an archaeic distributor-ignition engine.
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From: Hamilton
Car: 1990 IROCZ Camaro
Engine: 350 4bbl, 200cc Heads, 270hr Cam
Transmission: 700R4 w/ Trans-Go shift kit.
Axle/Gears: GM 10 bolt Posi
Did the 84s come with the OBD1 aldl connector? You can just use the paperclip method, that one never lies.
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i dont remember if the tool actually gave a code number to reference as i was only reading the description on the hand held screen.
Tomorrow sometime ill plug it in again and post results. also ill try counting the CEL flash method. I have a code detail book for my application.
Thanks again. TBD
Tomorrow sometime ill plug it in again and post results. also ill try counting the CEL flash method. I have a code detail book for my application.
Thanks again. TBD
what i meant about trying to set the timing is that im guessing it isnt correct yet and the timing bracke is nearly hidden directly under the water pump really tough to see. the car had trouble idling and would fall out quickly and stall at or below 1000 rpm if i didnt feather the gas pedal. as we turned the alternator clockwise just a hair, it would idle better, but raised the idle rpm to about 1100-1300. too high for this car imo.
so now the car runs well, but noticibly different and i would say not at an acceptable performance level. doesnt down shift sometimes when i expect it to. meaning if i put the pedal to the floor on a highway ramp it will accellerate, but not downshifting in the process as it used to and making that muscle car launch we all enjoy.
so now the car runs well, but noticibly different and i would say not at an acceptable performance level. doesnt down shift sometimes when i expect it to. meaning if i put the pedal to the floor on a highway ramp it will accellerate, but not downshifting in the process as it used to and making that muscle car launch we all enjoy.
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
Yea, lean over the motor, look straight down at the waterpump. Lean farrrr.... That way you can look straight behind the water pump, and can see the timing bracket easily. Go for 6* or whatever, with EST disconnected.
Use the paper clip trick to pull the error code, and post that #. Like "43" or whatever it is. Do a search on this forum for "EST connector", or "pulling error codes" or "paper clip" if you don't know what i'm talking about with that.
May need to adjust the kickdown, if it's not.... kicking down
Use the paper clip trick to pull the error code, and post that #. Like "43" or whatever it is. Do a search on this forum for "EST connector", or "pulling error codes" or "paper clip" if you don't know what i'm talking about with that.
May need to adjust the kickdown, if it's not.... kicking down
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From: Ontario, Canada
Car: 1989 IROC-Z
Engine: 5.7L EFI LTR setup
Transmission: T-5 World Class
You can adjust that in the TV cable I think .
try the "paperclip trick" as a search aswell
Checked the trouble codes by using the "count the CEL flash" method and this is what i found tonight. What say all???? and thank you much for your suggestions
Trouble code - #41 -
Descriptions according to my reference manual:
1. Cylinder select error
2. Tach input error Electronic Spark Timing circuit (EST) - open or shorted to ground during engine run
3. Direct Ignition system fault (DIS) - bypass circuit open or shorted to ground during engine run
4. Ignition system fault - loss of 1X Reference Pulse signal
5. Cam sensor failure
Trouble code - #44 -
Description according to my reference manual:
1. Lean exhaust indicated
What i want to do eventually is upgrade the coil on top of the distributor to a higher voltage - to get better burn?? But not doing anything more to the car until i figure out what is happening with it already....
Trouble code - #41 -
Descriptions according to my reference manual:
1. Cylinder select error
2. Tach input error Electronic Spark Timing circuit (EST) - open or shorted to ground during engine run
3. Direct Ignition system fault (DIS) - bypass circuit open or shorted to ground during engine run
4. Ignition system fault - loss of 1X Reference Pulse signal
5. Cam sensor failure
Trouble code - #44 -
Description according to my reference manual:
1. Lean exhaust indicated
What i want to do eventually is upgrade the coil on top of the distributor to a higher voltage - to get better burn?? But not doing anything more to the car until i figure out what is happening with it already....
i adjusted the TV cable yesterday evening and my trans appears to shift much better. But now i have a ticking noise coming from somewhere??? thought it was the fan hitting the shroud or something, but cant hear it under the hood; only from the interior.
Still see the CEL lighting up and the idle is also high @1300+
I look forward to hearing from you all. Thanks again.
Still see the CEL lighting up and the idle is also high @1300+
I look forward to hearing from you all. Thanks again.
bump
what do you think i should consider is the problem?? i'm guessing the timing is too advanced - or?? I dont know what else it could be and i really dont like taking it to the dealer.
thanks
what do you think i should consider is the problem?? i'm guessing the timing is too advanced - or?? I dont know what else it could be and i really dont like taking it to the dealer.
thanks
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