Hi new to this site i have a 91 gta 305 it started after a boost dead battery was running fine put in the shop did some work on it new plugs brakes tires a new battery now the car misses on driver side have spark and manifold turned cherry red ive cheaked all i know feul pressure cap roter plugs its my first tpi car always had older carbed cars any help would be appreciated thx

 

Sounds very lean, have you ohmed the injectors warm ?

 

No not warm i havent but did cold they were all at 17

 

Sounds fuel related or clogged injector. If they are the original multecs they are junk.
The only way I know to test the injectors is use this tool and watch fuel pressure drop.
https://m.ebay.com/itm/USA-Ship-EM27...cAAOSwz~paE9Nf

 

new ignition coil and 8 new 8njectors bosch from southbay injectors still same problem any other ideas

 

Advance the timing about 30°, see if it runs better.

Good idea, could be easier working on it in there, esp if it's raining.

 

Oh, Ruler of the Recliner - I believe I see where you're going with that. Good call, especially if the shop "fixed" the timing. We get the other possibility, too, but one thing at a time.

 

Sorry if i worded it wrong put it in my shop i dont rule the recliner turn my own wrenches im just stuck and cant figure it out

 

Pinner - That one was not directed at you, but the Sultan of the Sofa, the Monarch of the Mattress, that Overlord of the Ottoman, Duke of the Davenport, Chief of the Chaise, Emperor of the Easy Chair, and Ruler of the Recliner, sofakingdom.

 

Get it back in the shop, disconnect the EST bypass connector, and check the base timing. If the timing was set to the 6° spec with the EST still active, it might be 20-30° retarded from where it should actually be.




If it does not run properly with the base timing set correctly, experiment with the timing a bit more. Moving it another 10-20° might reveal whether the valve timing is off. You know where that might lead.

 

Whats the thinking of advancing timiming 30 degrees i dont understand is to see if timing jumped

 

First, to see if the base timing was correctly set.

Second - And you nailed it - To see if the valve timing jumped. One tooth on the typical timing set is about 17° of cam timing.

 

The only part that confusing me that would affect whole motor im only having the driver side issue

 

I missed that part earlier. Is there power at all the injectors? The 12V supply may be split between the INJ1 and INJ2 fuses.

Are the injectors firing? A test light can verify this. The harness is split where it connects in the engine bay before traveling through the firewall to the ECM. There is a factory splice in the harness which may have failed, but the test light will verify this.

It's also possible that there is blockage in the transfer tubes between the left and right fuel rails.

 

Yes all injectors firing guess should have cheaked apulled the fuel rail right apart i just had it out to replace the injectors

 

You MIGHT be able to pull the left fuel rail loose from the intake base and CAREFULLY energize the pump for a few cycles to purge the lines and verify fuel flow to that side. Of course, there will be raw fuel involved, so be prepared to deal with the obvious fire potential. It would NOT be a good idea to crank the engine until all raw fuel is dried and gone.

 

You said that the shop put in new plugs. Are they all firing? Plug wires mixed up? #5 & 7 especially. Sorry, I'm not a fuel injection guy, but I'm thinking that 1 cylinder is not firing, so the raw from that cylinder is being pumped into the EXH manifold and burning there.

 

Thax everyone for the help my own i figures out was bank 2 injector fuse after putting a coil and 8 new ijectors in a 50 cent fix me dumb live and learn never thaught it was the oppisite side motor dead basically lol can believe it even started up on a plus note thow the ijectors must not been great car works better then ever since i got it 4 years ago guessin the injectors helped thax again