Tanker_01

Hello everyone I am new to the forum and new to the F body.

I have a 88 base model (non IROC) with the 305 engine and auto trans with 151k miles I just picked up. Has a bit of rust and some dash cracking but overall it runs and drives great! I have discovered a couple issues I wanted to come here and pick the brain of the experts about.

First issue it has and most annoying is a slow/hanging start. I am not sure if there is either not sufficient shims on the starter or the starter is just weak or the battery. I plan to investigate if the battery is in good shape first but are there other permanent magnet stronger starter options from later models that will fit?

Second issue is I seem to have a very small coolant leak somewhere on the front right of the engine bay. I do not think it is from the engine itself because the coolant is leaking onto the frame rail right behind the battery and in front of the coolant reservoir. I suspect a cracked reservoir but I wanted to make sure there isnt a common place that it can leak from there.

Third and final (for now) is I have no dash lights. I am going to check the fuse to see if its a dumb fix like that and the guy i got it from is just not mechanically/electrically inclined. but if the fuse is good could all the bulbs just be out at the same time? One of the turn signal lights and the CEL are the only lights that work on the whole dash.

I know these questions may have been asked before but I would like to have my own fix-up thread for my car. Thank you in advance for any advice/information! I will post some pics of the car when I get a chance.

Aviator857

The slow starting, first clean all the battery cables, including where the ground cable connects to the engine block, and the positive connects to the starter. Not too uncommon for the years to corrode and people to paint things making these electrical connections weak. There are mini starters you can find, but a good stock will spin the engine with plenty of RPM. If you mean you have to spin the engine for several seconds before it cranks you may have an issue with the fuel pump circuit (the car will turn on the fuel pump via the ECU or if the oil pressure is over a certain value, if for some reason the ecu isn't doing it and you crank the car long enough you can build enough oil pressure to trigger the fuel pump to turn on)

The leak... the overflow tank is common to crack on the seams, The drain is on the driver side but it can leak and run across the lower radiator support. If you have plastic tanks its not too uncommon for the radiator to crack. Stock replacement brass tank radiators can be had at parts stores pretty cheap. One thing you can do is pressurize the radiator with air and see where its bubbling out. They sell devices for this. There is a weap hole in the pump that is an indication that the pump is starting to leak. This can run down the lower radiator hose. Look for the tail tail signs of the leak, or add leak dye to the system and see where its coming out at.

The lights ... its possible the bulbs have burned out. Its also possible the interior lights brightness is all the way down or that rheostat is bad. That is hard to say without more details.

Tanker_01

I didnt even know they were adjustable... Is the rheostat the light **** or is it somewhere else?

I will go through all the electrical connections like you said to make sure everything has good connection. the hanging start is kind of an intermittent issue but it seems to happen more often than not. I will check to see if the weep hole is where the coolant is coming from. Luckily water pumps are pretty cheap for this engine. Thanks for all the info!

Tanker_01

That is the fitting at the bottom of the coolant tank that seems to be the culprit of the leak

A view of the leak. Bunch of wires hanging around. I cleaned them all up today, that one turned out to be the radio memory power wire

another view of the leaking coolant tank

and another...

What is this plug for? It has red and orange wires and its right in between the battery and coolant tank..

And obligatory full pic. A little rough around the edges but it runs awesome and drives smooth.

Tanker_01

I tried out the Rheostat for the gauge lights last night and they do work but only in some positions of the Rheostat. The dome light does not work at all I suspect it is just burnt out.

I cleaned the battery terminals and a few of the grounds and it is still starting the same. I think its the issue you brought up where the engine is having to build oil pressure by cranking a time or two first.

I investigated the coolant leak further and I am very certain it is the coolant tank. I plan to replace this as soon as possible. It only has that one coolant line running to it from the overflow correct?

OrangeBird

iTrader: (1)

That is not just a plug , that is actually a fuse that protects your ECM .

Tanker_01

Ah good to know. Interesting place for it..

OrangeBird

iTrader: (1)

Here is a 1988 diagram showing the fender mounted fuse . It's "Inline fuse 2 20A" at the top middle of the page .

Tanker_01

Oh awesome that diagram is super in depth! I have a Megasquirt I sitting in a box, would it be worth it to hook that up on this engine or would a swap be in order first?

OrangeBird

iTrader: (1)

In my opinion , if you are planning a 350 swap , and hoping the MegaSquirt will show big performance gains on your 305 , I'd wait on the MS till your doing the swap . My reason for this is , the ECM controlling the fuel injection is not the biggest bottleneck your 305 faces in making power . The very restrictive exhaust system (to be replaced with headers and 3 inch pipe) and the scornfully called stock "peanut cam" are huge restrictions for the engine that wouldn't be solved by running a different ECM . Sure , if you want to gain familiarity with the MS system before the swap by all means , install it and let the learning curve begin , just don't be expecting any huge gains in power by installing the MS alone , it itself can't possibly cure the restrictive exhaust & crappy cam that presently reside in your soon to be replaced 305

Remember the age old law of performance ;

Speed = Cubic Inches X Cubic Dollars , squared

GeneralDisorder

iTrader: (1)

There is basically zero performance gain just from swapping the computer. As you noted it "runs great". You might gain 5 peak HP from leaning out the PE mode. And for this 5 HP you will spend months on the learning curve to install and tune the MS and you wouldn't be able to tell the difference without a dyno. Also there are better options than an MS1. EBL for example would be a much better option as it will retain the factory knock control. MS has no knock control at all.



GD

Tanker_01

I will hold off on the MS then for now. The new coolant overflow tank should be here today so I should be able to fix that issue. I also plan to flush the radiator as well when I change the oil. That iron block made the coolant turn a nice rust color... I have window trim coming as well as a dash cover since my dash is terribly cracked due to UV damage. I am going to be removing the bubbled window tint, I tried a small area just removing it with a razor blade and it actually worked very well.

I think what Aviator said about the engine needing to build oil pressure for it to start is correct. What do I need to replace to correct this issue specifically?

OrangeBird

iTrader: (1)

If it's not running the fuel pump till oil pressure is built up during cranking , you need to check that the ECM and fuel pump relay are actually doing the 2 second prime . In a quiet place , with the door open so you can hear the pump (which is in the gas tank) , turn the key from off to the run position and listen for the pump to run for 2 seconds . If you hear the pump run for 2 seconds , the electric controls are functioning properly . If there is no 2 second prime , the first checks will be at the relay .

Tanker_01

Got it I will check that tonight. If it is running the fuel pump what should be the next component to look at for troubleshooting? Starter? Battery?

Tanker_01

So I am trying to read the code that is throwing my CEL but the CEL only comes on after driving for about 10 mins or so. If I turn the car off and then turn the key to on the CEL isn't on anymore. Can I drive it until it turns on and try to get it to give me the code while the engine is running or does the engine have to be off? What all is the CEL actually connected to on a OBD I car? Should I even worry?

Aviator857

The code will be stored so you can still read it out either with a obd1 scan tool or by doing the jumper method and counting the flashes of the cel.

Tanker_01

Ok I have a new development. My Dad has a 96(?) Vette that has a Procharged 383 stroker swapped into it with a ZF6 and a whole bunch of other neat stuff. He has the original complete LT1 and clutch as well as some other original vette stuff still and he said if I come pick it up from his shop I can have it for the low price of Free.99. So I am now looking at swapping that LT1 into this camaro. Is it very difficult to do so? Would it be worth mating it up to the poor 700r4 for a while until I can source a good TH350 or 400 or should I wait until I get a viable transmission to drop in at the same time? I am only $700 into this car so far so now with a ready to drop in engine I think I may have something really cool eventually once everything comes together.

OrangeBird

iTrader: (1)

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/engi...1-lt1-tpi.html

This link will take you to threads with lots of good info all about LS and LT swaps

Tanker_01

I will definitely go take a look! Might have a stock 305 with 150k on it for sale in the near future.

OrangeBird

iTrader: (1)

With all due respect , upon it's removal , the old 305 will be regarded as scrap metal by the people here . The poor ol 305 does have it's (few) defenders but for the greater majority , well ,

let's just say if you want an eye opener do a search here of the term "Boat Anchor" and read a few of the threads that term appears in ....

Tanker_01

I am going to flush the radiator here soon since the coolant is quite brown. Any tips for doing this? OK to run hose water through it or do I need to go get some distilled stuff?

427seven

hose

Camarillo

As a preventative measure, add a little stop leak of some kind to your cooling system. A gm pellet or some bottled goo from auto parts store.