T-5 won't shift into 1st from a stop. Doesn't grind, just REAL hard. Synchros?
T-5 won't shift into 1st from a stop. Doesn't grind, just REAL hard. Synchros?
My t-5 started giving me trouble a few months ago. 3rd started grinding a bit. Now, I cant get it in any gear fwhen I'm at a stop. I can shift fine when moving. It seems like it needs to be at the correct rpms to shift. I can shift all the way through without using the clutch with no problem. The only problem is when I tried to put it in gear initially. Could this be the synchros going? Can I buy a rebuild kit for this. Ive never done it, but I've never done any of the work until I did it the first time. In other words, Im not afraid to do it. Or would it be better to spend the dough on a used/rebuilt one? Thanks for the help.
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 18,457
Likes: 16
From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
Clutch. Not the trans. It is all but impossible for a trans to create that behavior by itself. The engine is remaining partly connected to the trans at all times. Could be the pilot bearing / bushing, which is for all practical purposes part of the clutch.
Considering I've replaced the slave, throwout bearing, and pivot ball, but not the pilot, you may be right. The only thing I've let a mechanic do to my car in 7 years is the clutch, and Im sure he used a crappy bushing not a bearing. I have a pilot bearing and centerforce dual friction I was waiting to install with my 350. I guess I'll puty the bearing in this weekend. Why would it only do it when Im sitting still? Thanks RB, I searched and read a million of your posts on the subject and was hoping youd be able to respond quickly. Thanks again.
I've found that the "Hard to put into 1st gear" problem is directly related to the inherent problem of the 1st-2nd shifter fork breaking, and the slider cushion falling off.
This seems to be a typical problem, at least according to Hanlon Motorsports (a great resource for getting replacement pieces and rebuild kits too, btw)
I replaced mine because it was cracked right at the fork downturn (left side) and it would flex, preventing the 1st gear slider moving the gear into position linearly. It was trying to push it "****-eyed". Of course, it wasn't much help that it also caused the synchros and the slider keys from getting munched either. It's a domino effect, once one piece goes, it carries a bunch of other stuff along for the ride.
hth,
This seems to be a typical problem, at least according to Hanlon Motorsports (a great resource for getting replacement pieces and rebuild kits too, btw)
I replaced mine because it was cracked right at the fork downturn (left side) and it would flex, preventing the 1st gear slider moving the gear into position linearly. It was trying to push it "****-eyed". Of course, it wasn't much help that it also caused the synchros and the slider keys from getting munched either. It's a domino effect, once one piece goes, it carries a bunch of other stuff along for the ride.
hth,
Well mine is definently a clutch related problem as RB said. I noticed today that she moves when in gear and the clutch suppousidly disengaged. ill be working after work the next few days to replace my pilot bushing. ill post how it turns out.
Former Sponsor
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 1,081
Likes: 3
From: Florida
Car: 1992 Camaro RS
Engine: Yet another 350 TPI
Transmission: Borg Warner 6 spd
Axle/Gears: 3.73
This isn't a thirdgen, but the idea is the same. My dads 85 F150 started doing the same thing a few years ago. It would not go into gear unless it was moving, and if you had to stop at a light, you had to turn it off for you to be able to put it into gear, and then you could start it. Otherwise, it would just grind, and it wouldn't go into any gear. When we did start it however, even with the clutch pedal on the floor, the car would creep forward. To make a long story short, it ended up being the pilot bearing.
Mine had the same problem...turned out to be the the pivot fork was adjustable and needed to be screwed in tighter in order to work correctly. This was a stock belhousing so I found this strange.
Trending Topics
Well I pulled the tranny today after work(I've got it down to a one hour job) and replaced the pilot bushing with a bearing. If you need to know how to remove it, get some wet cardboard, pack it in there, and use a socket that just fits in the hole and pound it until the bearing works its way loose. Youll probably have to repack it a few times to fill the space it leaves when it creeps forward. I used grease to do the trick before my buddy told me that cardboard would work. That sounds much cleaner. So I replaced it even though it didnt look bad, and I saw that my clutch fork pivot ball had come loose as stated before. Its not adjustable, it just vibrated itself loose. They sell adjustabl;e ones but it doesnt adjust the same way. Tomorrow I'll be putting it all back together and I'll post the results. Thanks for the info. guys.
Well I put it all back together and WOW, what a difference. My clutch hasn't felt that smooth in years. I replaced the pilot bushing with a bearing from Summit and cleaned and greased it all. I think the problem was the pivot ball that shook loose, but I'm glad I replaced the pilot anyways. Now I can pull and replace the tranny in about 1.5 hours. I'm happy with the results. Now it's time to swap out that damaged door!v Thanks again guys.
Not to be a dork, but where is your right hand while you drive? if your answer is "on the shifter" there is your problem. clutch forks dont like being pushed against the blocking ring all day, besides there is NO reason to keep your hand on that shifter.....
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post






