Originally posted by Stephen 87 IROC
Fourth gen diff = 7.625" ring gear, 28 spline axles (weak factory ones), longer axles than a third gen (more prone to twisting). As much as the 10 bolt can be beefed up the weak link is still the tiny ring and pinion. I ran a beefed up 10 bolt for a year and ran 11.2's at 121 mph with no problems except for blowing up 2 engines in the process. After that year I added a transbrake and went right to a 9" since I didn't think the 10 bolt could take more than one hit off the transbrake.

Originally posted by NTChrist
Stephen: So, would it be logical to assume that with an aftermarket ring and pinion, (from a good name) and a few misc details like a stud girdle, that a 10 bolt could withstand a litte hp?

The best thing would be to find some pro gears but since the 7.5" isn't a performance diff I doubt they make pro gears for the 7.5", Mine were Motive gears.

Back to the point, you have pounded on one, and could you divulge the recipe for your specific 10 bolt?

http://www.ws6transam.org/10bolt.html

P.S., just checked out your website, nice car. I'm partial to the rough and tumble, thump the pretty-boy look myself. I'm not too sure about a car that runs high 10's with lexan t-tops, a 460 cubes, plexiglas windows, and a transbrake, tho... No disrespect intended (your car is, after all, a whole lot faster than mine), but do you think that there's a little potential left in your setup?

Fancy paint and lots of chrome doesn't make it go any faster.

I've never had any problems with the T-tops and many cars quicker than 11.00 have plexiglass or Lexan windows with transbrakes.

There's isn't much left in the car to go quicker without spending a lot more money. I've already invested in a TH400 transbrake so upgrading to a powerglide tranny with transbrake is a huge cost. I'm trying to get the car down to around 2800 pounds, race ready but trying to remove 400 more pounds isn't easy. Aluminum heads, fiberglass door and fenders would help but again it's the cost factor. I could backhalf the car and tub it out for larger tires but again it's the cost factor.

It all boils down to money. If I want to go much faster the easiest way would be to drop in a 540 engine that has to run on alcohol.

With the few changes I'll do over the winter I'm hoping for a 10 second pass next year at altitude. Going to a lower elevation track shouldn't be a problem doing it. I could have had a 10 second pass in Yakima if I didn't float the valves.

Just remember that building a fast car isn't just about the engine. 500+ hp won't run 12's if the power doesn't get to the ground or the rest of the driveline breaks every time it runs. Everyone see magazine articles about "pro street" type of cars but don't realize that many of these cars would never go on a drag strip or that it costs so much to run and maintain them that they'll never be considered daily drivers.

Bracket racing is about 80% of all racing. Speed means nothing in a bracket race. Build a car that runs consistant and regardless of the speed, it will be hard to beat. Build what you can afford and upgrade to something stronger or better if parts start to fail.