Hey 9bolt guys ?'s
Hey 9bolt guys ?'s
Hey i was serching the classifids on this site just too see whats up and i found a 9bolt posi rear out of a TA i think the guy said, i emailed him questions about it and what not. but for 250 o.b.o how could ya go wrong.
my questions are how hard is it to bolt a 9 bolt rear end in the spot of a 10bolt? ive heard u can do it but i forget whats the hard part about doing the swap. also would i have any problems with the driveshaft meetin the rear end? i have a th350 and a good old 7 1/2 10bolt. im really wanting a psoi rear end and i know 9 bolts and 12 bolts are very strong, the only thing is finding after market stuff for the 9 bolt i think would be my only problem. but i think i could offer the guy 200 for it and see how far he lives from me.
my questions are how hard is it to bolt a 9 bolt rear end in the spot of a 10bolt? ive heard u can do it but i forget whats the hard part about doing the swap. also would i have any problems with the driveshaft meetin the rear end? i have a th350 and a good old 7 1/2 10bolt. im really wanting a psoi rear end and i know 9 bolts and 12 bolts are very strong, the only thing is finding after market stuff for the 9 bolt i think would be my only problem. but i think i could offer the guy 200 for it and see how far he lives from me.
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From: Fort Mill, SC, USA
Car: '88 Iroc, '91 RS, and a '70 RS
Engine: 5.7 TPI; 5.0 TBI; ZZ4/T56 on the ag
Transmission: A4, A4, slated to be a T56
It will bolt right up, they're all practically the same.
Ed
Ed
ok kool thanx thats what i wanted to hear.
also i went to GM parts direct and to see what the part number is for the parking brake cable and i think this is it # H2FH. does anyone know if that is the correct park number? i know i could just go to the gm dealer and ask but im not sure if thats the number
also i went to GM parts direct and to see what the part number is for the parking brake cable and i think this is it # H2FH. does anyone know if that is the correct park number? i know i could just go to the gm dealer and ask but im not sure if thats the number Member
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 456
Likes: 1
From: South Texas
Car: 97 200sx se-r, 82 Trans/Am
Engine: 350 bored to 355
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt 3.45
Just make sure you don't have brake line problems. You need to make the brake lines work on your car. The brake lines on the 9-bolt are different than the one's you have on your 82. If the lines are still on the 9-bolt, then there is an easy fix you can do.
I did this on my conversion, and it is pretty clever. The lines that screw into the block have that special type of fitting on the end. I am talking about the ones coming from the calipers. Cut them right at the end, you know, right where they meet together at the block.
I cut them there, and took off the fittings. You need to buy new fittings (about 50 cents apiece), and rent a tubing bender and flaring tool (both free at autozone, or o'reileys). Straighten the brake line so you can slide the new fittings on the line, then use the flaring tool to make the proper flare for the block that the lines screw into.
Here is my thread, where andyz28 and I discuss the difference, look it up, it is very helpful. here it is
The following are other threads that I started when I was doing the conversion. Read them all, the more you know the easier it is.
pbr brake info
brake mod to make the rear brakes work better
how to fill up the 9-bolt, trust me, it is different than a 10-bolt
There are a lot of brake complications in the swap, or at least there was for me. If you have pbr brakes on the 9-bolt, you need wheels that are bigger than 15 inch. The calipers rubbed on my 15 inch wheels. I just spacered them out with flat washers. Hey it worked. Message if you have any other questions I didn't help you with. Good luck. Oh yeah, it is a real good deal.
I did this on my conversion, and it is pretty clever. The lines that screw into the block have that special type of fitting on the end. I am talking about the ones coming from the calipers. Cut them right at the end, you know, right where they meet together at the block.
I cut them there, and took off the fittings. You need to buy new fittings (about 50 cents apiece), and rent a tubing bender and flaring tool (both free at autozone, or o'reileys). Straighten the brake line so you can slide the new fittings on the line, then use the flaring tool to make the proper flare for the block that the lines screw into.
Here is my thread, where andyz28 and I discuss the difference, look it up, it is very helpful. here it is
The following are other threads that I started when I was doing the conversion. Read them all, the more you know the easier it is.
pbr brake info
brake mod to make the rear brakes work better
how to fill up the 9-bolt, trust me, it is different than a 10-bolt
There are a lot of brake complications in the swap, or at least there was for me. If you have pbr brakes on the 9-bolt, you need wheels that are bigger than 15 inch. The calipers rubbed on my 15 inch wheels. I just spacered them out with flat washers. Hey it worked. Message if you have any other questions I didn't help you with. Good luck. Oh yeah, it is a real good deal.
well this rear end is out of a 87 TA and the only thing i think il have a problem with is the lines if i cant get them on becuz of the different fittings. and ill have to email the guy to see if it has PBR calipers or not. but would there be any way to hook the brake lines i have now up the the calipers and have no problems be sides the flares on the end?
Last edited by 1982chevycamaroz28; Oct 26, 2002 at 08:08 PM.
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 10,950
Likes: 26
From: Orange, SoCal
Car: 1990 Pontiac Trans Am
Engine: 355 TPI siamesed runners
Transmission: Tremec T56
Axle/Gears: 12-Bolt 3.73
PBR aluminum calipers are on 89's and up, so an 87 rear wont have them.
Member
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 456
Likes: 1
From: South Texas
Car: 97 200sx se-r, 82 Trans/Am
Engine: 350 bored to 355
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt 3.45
yeah you don't have the pbr's (too bad though), but the brake lines are still going to be a problem. The flaring tool you can rent has a fitting to try to make that special "bubble flare", but even a hydralics mechanic I know didn't want to try to replicate it. They are very hard to make perfectly.
It can be done, you just use the little adapter on the flaring tool. Instead of flaring the line out like a funnel, it crunches it into the adapter, and makes a little diamond shape. It could work for you, but I didn't want to chance the leaks.
The guy selling the rear should include the brake lines, so all you have to do is just cut them at the where I told you and flare them regularly to fit your 1982 distribution block.
Message the guy and make sure that he didn't do a pbr caliper conversion. Make sure that he is including, the lines, the rotors, the calipers, and parking brake lines. If you have rear discs on your 10-bolt, your calipers might bolt up, but look into it.
See the trick is, if your calipers off of the 10-bolt will fit.... Then you don't even need to worry about that damn bubble flare thing. You can run you old lines with your old calipers. It would make things very easy...
It can be done, you just use the little adapter on the flaring tool. Instead of flaring the line out like a funnel, it crunches it into the adapter, and makes a little diamond shape. It could work for you, but I didn't want to chance the leaks.
The guy selling the rear should include the brake lines, so all you have to do is just cut them at the where I told you and flare them regularly to fit your 1982 distribution block.
Message the guy and make sure that he didn't do a pbr caliper conversion. Make sure that he is including, the lines, the rotors, the calipers, and parking brake lines. If you have rear discs on your 10-bolt, your calipers might bolt up, but look into it.
See the trick is, if your calipers off of the 10-bolt will fit.... Then you don't even need to worry about that damn bubble flare thing. You can run you old lines with your old calipers. It would make things very easy...
Last edited by foney_email; Oct 27, 2002 at 10:20 AM.
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Supreme Member
iTrader: (7)
Joined: Mar 2001
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From: Fort Mill, SC, USA
Car: '88 Iroc, '91 RS, and a '70 RS
Engine: 5.7 TPI; 5.0 TBI; ZZ4/T56 on the ag
Transmission: A4, A4, slated to be a T56
Yeah, I forgot about the brake line thread differences. Instead of doing all that flaring stuff, you could get new lines from Inline Tube or Fine Lines and save yourself all that trouble. The lines are pretty cheap. At Fine Lines, prices are $29 for standard lines and $37 for stainless...well worth it IMO.
Ed
www.inlinetube.com
www.finelines.com
Ed
www.inlinetube.com
www.finelines.com
well the guy said that before he ripped the rear out it had rubber lines goin to the calipers and i dont have disks on my 82 i have drum. but couldnt i just pit up the rubber brake lines at work(pepboys) we have a **** load of brake lines so i can get them cheap. all i would have to do is look up for that yr TA and it should give me the correct lines. ill check tomarrow morning just to make sure. but im buyin new parking brake cables from a GM dealer up the street from me so those arent no problem. since my brake line on the drums are steel or what ever couldnt i just cut them , flare the end and get some type of block or something were i could connect the 2 fittings?
Supreme Member
iTrader: (7)
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 6,420
Likes: 5
From: Fort Mill, SC, USA
Car: '88 Iroc, '91 RS, and a '70 RS
Engine: 5.7 TPI; 5.0 TBI; ZZ4/T56 on the ag
Transmission: A4, A4, slated to be a T56
I was talking abou the HARD lines on the rear axle, not the rubber hoses. Those at Pep BOys, etc. will work fine, just get the ones for that year rear.
Yeah, you could cut the lines and reflare, but again, why go thru all that trouble when $30 can get you new ones already good to go??
Ed
Yeah, you could cut the lines and reflare, but again, why go thru all that trouble when $30 can get you new ones already good to go??
Ed
Member
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 456
Likes: 1
From: South Texas
Car: 97 200sx se-r, 82 Trans/Am
Engine: 350 bored to 355
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt 3.45
yeah, ed has the right idea. I wish I knew I could just buy the lines like that so cheap. Oh well. Remember that calipers are about 60 dollars apiece, plus a 60 dollar core charge. Rotors are about 20 apiece. If he doesn't include these, you have much more money to spend. If you are on a budget, you need to consider these little things too.
well how much work is it to put new rear brake lines in, like from the master cylender to the rear? if thats what ur talkin about about gettin new lines. also he's giving me everything on the rear like all the caliper and rotors and such, he's even throwin in the low control arms, even though i dont need those becuz thye will be replaced anyway.
Supreme Member
iTrader: (7)
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 6,420
Likes: 5
From: Fort Mill, SC, USA
Car: '88 Iroc, '91 RS, and a '70 RS
Engine: 5.7 TPI; 5.0 TBI; ZZ4/T56 on the ag
Transmission: A4, A4, slated to be a T56
Shouldn't be too hard. They run along the driver's side to the back end of the car. Unless they're rusted to hell, should just be able to unbolt them and swap them out.
I havent' done this...
Ed
I havent' done this...
Ed
well i talked with the master tech at worktoday about the rear end and he doesnt think its hard to put the rear in even with the lines not being the same becuz all we would do is cut the metal line put a fittin on it and flare the end. then he said get one of those box thingys that car that have disks already have and then just get the brake lines the rubber ones for that yr rear end and everything should be good and at the same time we plan on thorwing in a line lock since we'll have the brake system open.
Member
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 456
Likes: 1
From: South Texas
Car: 97 200sx se-r, 82 Trans/Am
Engine: 350 bored to 355
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt 3.45
yeah, that is my original suggestion. It worked for me. Good luck on the lines. I have a hard time keeping the fittings from leaking whenever I do brake work.
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