clutch hydraulic problems
05-19-2005, 10:50 PM
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Car: 1994 Jeep Wrangler
clutch hydraulic problems
Ok... everything is together but my pedal is moosh. I have tried bleeding this thing and I am going to try again tomorrow... my system doesnt apear to leak anywhere... is there anything that is suposed to secure the hose for the reservoir? in both places? hose to reservoir and reservoir hose to master cylinder? could I be losing pressure in those places ?
05-20-2005, 07:27 AM
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Car: '86 Camaro, '02 WRX, '87 K5, '67
Engine: 350 TPI, 2.0turbo, 383 in the works, 289-4BBL, 232, A-head 4-cylinder
Transmission: T56, 5-speed, 700R4, C4, T176, semi-auto 2-speed
Axle/Gears: 3.73, 3.90, 4.88, 3.55, 3.54, 7.00
If you're loosing pressure you'd have a leak. How'd this situation develop? The system is sealed, so there shouldn't be air in the system unless something is broken.
05-20-2005, 08:01 AM
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Transmission: 5
People always seem to be in a hurry to blame the hydraulics for EVERYTHING that goes wrong with their clutch.
They are rarely at fault. If they haven't exploded, and they hold fluid, then the problem is elsewhere.
Which is of course why "bleeding" them had no effect.
I'd suspect incorrect assembly somewhere.... clutch fork not on the pivot ball correctly, or not in the throwout bearing groove correctly.
They are rarely at fault. If they haven't exploded, and they hold fluid, then the problem is elsewhere.
Which is of course why "bleeding" them had no effect.
I'd suspect incorrect assembly somewhere.... clutch fork not on the pivot ball correctly, or not in the throwout bearing groove correctly.
05-20-2005, 08:31 AM
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i supose i should mention that it seems to have an endless supply of air bubbles? (i am reverse bleeding) it firms up a little and i am able to get 2nd gear with the car running when i have the pedal all the way down. Seeing as I have never done this before how long is reasonable for getting the damn air out with a hand pump? I am pretty sure everything else is setup ok. I just doesnt seen that there is much travel at all with the slave
05-20-2005, 08:34 AM
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oh... one more thing... this a t5 SWAP from an auto so i dont have the luxury of knowing that the hydraulics were already properly bled. or even working
05-20-2005, 08:47 AM
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Well that's an additional variable.... no telling what might have happened to it along its path from wherever it was to where it is now.
If you just let the slave cyl hang for a day or so from the line, it will pretty much bleed itself. Make sure it's topped off with fluid.
As long as it wasn't disassembled it shouldn't need bleeding. FYI, the factory ships the whole deal as a complete assembly (MC, SC, reservoir, & line), in a box, filled with fluid, pre-bled. You just take it out of the box and install it.
If somebody disassembled it, then who knows what might have happened to it. You might be better off to just go down to the dealer and get a new one.
If you just let the slave cyl hang for a day or so from the line, it will pretty much bleed itself. Make sure it's topped off with fluid.
As long as it wasn't disassembled it shouldn't need bleeding. FYI, the factory ships the whole deal as a complete assembly (MC, SC, reservoir, & line), in a box, filled with fluid, pre-bled. You just take it out of the box and install it.
If somebody disassembled it, then who knows what might have happened to it. You might be better off to just go down to the dealer and get a new one.
05-20-2005, 09:06 AM
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when i got it, the tube going to the reservoir and the reservoir itself were not attached and now, they are just sliped on where they are suposed to be. is there enough pressure in the system where this could be a problem? would some hose clamps help? I REALLY dont want to have to pull all of this crap out if i dont have to.
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05-20-2005, 09:33 AM
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Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
There's no pressure there; the little squeezy type hose clamps are all that the factory uses.
You shouldn't be afraid of pulling it back out if you need to. It only takes about 30 minutes to change that whole assembly out, from tow-in to drive-out.
You shouldn't be afraid of pulling it back out if you need to. It only takes about 30 minutes to change that whole assembly out, from tow-in to drive-out.
05-20-2005, 01:21 PM
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Car: '86 Camaro, '02 WRX, '87 K5, '67
Engine: 350 TPI, 2.0turbo, 383 in the works, 289-4BBL, 232, A-head 4-cylinder
Transmission: T56, 5-speed, 700R4, C4, T176, semi-auto 2-speed
Axle/Gears: 3.73, 3.90, 4.88, 3.55, 3.54, 7.00
A complete new assembly from GM is about $90, and just like RB said it is ready to install.
If you are bleeding it I would say it shouldn't take long to get the air bubbles out. If they persist you've got another problem. I'd take RB's advice though and let it gravity bleed. That's the best way to bleed hydraulics if you've got the time.
If you are bleeding it I would say it shouldn't take long to get the air bubbles out. If they persist you've got another problem. I'd take RB's advice though and let it gravity bleed. That's the best way to bleed hydraulics if you've got the time.
05-20-2005, 03:54 PM
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im gonna try the pump again today then maybe let it gravity bleed over the weekend. I will just barely crack the bleeder and leave a bottle of brake fluid upside down in the reservoir.
06-14-2005, 10:13 PM
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Car: '85 TA
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Transmission: retrofitted T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 7.62" 10-bolt, locker
Originally posted by RB83L69
People always seem to be in a hurry to blame the hydraulics for EVERYTHING that goes wrong with their clutch.
They are rarely at fault. If they haven't exploded, and they hold fluid, then the problem is elsewhere.
Which is of course why "bleeding" them had no effect.
I'd suspect incorrect assembly somewhere.... clutch fork not on the pivot ball correctly, or not in the throwout bearing groove correctly.
People always seem to be in a hurry to blame the hydraulics for EVERYTHING that goes wrong with their clutch.
They are rarely at fault. If they haven't exploded, and they hold fluid, then the problem is elsewhere.
Which is of course why "bleeding" them had no effect.
I'd suspect incorrect assembly somewhere.... clutch fork not on the pivot ball correctly, or not in the throwout bearing groove correctly.
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