Originally Posted by InfernalVortex

Unfortunately SPD doesnt make thirdgen stuff anymore. I got one of his last batches of crossmembers.

Originally Posted by L695speed

I suppose one could always modify (grind) the Spohn one down. But then it wouldn't look as nice. I'll have to see how it looks when my car is done. as of now, it doesn't look as if it will hang any lower than the exhaust. And I haven't had a problem driving it around here in NJ yet. (I had it running a couple years ago with factory setup)

Originally Posted by L695speed

I second this, good piece, I'm also using it. Can't use the T5 or 4th gen cross member, you need the conversion one.

Originally Posted by 88 TA GTA

Have either of you lowered your car? I have this on mine (just put in) and twice I have noticed what i think is it hitting the pavement at 70MPH in a dip in the road. I'm not 100% certain, the 1st time I thought it sounded like it hitting the ground, but the 2nd time it sounded like metal hitting metal. A big *** bang.

Anyone experience this? I wasn't able to put in the last two bolts as the holes were stripped so I only have the 1st 4 in, could that be it or could the tranny be hitting the undercarriage?

Originally Posted by L695speed

I suppose one could always modify (grind) the Spohn one down. But then it wouldn't look as nice. I'll have to see how it looks when my car is done. as of now, it doesn't look as if it will hang any lower than the exhaust. And I haven't had a problem driving it around here in NJ yet. (I had it running a couple years ago with factory setup)

Originally Posted by L695speed

There are only four bolts on the factory crossmember. I know there are holes for 6 but I didn't see why they were needed. I am lowering my car with a pro kit and have Konis on it, but I haven't driven mine yet. Hoping to before the year is out. Due to that I can't say if it will bottom out. I may take the grinder to mine to shorten it up anyway if I don't like how it looks relative to the ground. Just a thought but could your shocks be shot? If they are a car is more likely to bottom out. If they're in good shape or new then its possible its the crossmember. But based on what my exhaust was like before, I think its tighter to the body than my exhaust.

Originally Posted by 88 TA GTA

Do you think it would be as strong after grinding?

Originally Posted by L695speed

To quote 87350IROC "The Spohn crossmemeber is easy to modify for more clearance. I cut down and reshaped the edge that hangs the lowest and probably gained a good 3/4" or so." I guess it will be. I would see what others have to say since they've likely driven theirs on the street.

Originally Posted by 87350IROC

Have you guys taken a look at the OEM cross member next to the Spohn. The Spohn one is so overbuilt its not even funny. The material removed will not cause any issues.

And by the way I would highly recommend using all 6 bolts. The t-56 cross member hangs so far back, there is a big moment arm.

Originally Posted by L695speed

Now that I think about it you have a good point in comparison to the OEM one. I won't worry about the material being taken off. Also I'll take your advice on the using 6 bolts. I will have to see if I can even get bolts started in the forward two holes. Next time I have it in the air I will check it out. I have a door I'm putting on the car to replace my rotted original. I'd rather on it on the ground for that.

Originally Posted by 87350IROC

Have you guys taken a look at the OEM cross member next to the Spohn. The Spohn one is so overbuilt its not even funny. The material removed will not cause any issues.

And by the way I would highly recommend using all 6 bolts. The t-56 cross member hangs so far back, there is a big moment arm.

Originally Posted by 88 TA GTA

Thanks, I thought the last two holes were stripped on my ride. I will use a tap set to fix.

Are you guys comparing to and original T56 cross member or the T5? Mine had an auto.

Originally Posted by 87350IROC

T-56 dust cover can be found here.

http://www.f2bkit.com/dust_cover.html

Originally Posted by 88 TA GTA

I found this place a while back and contacted them. They told me it wouldn't work with and older block (2 PC RMS) and to find a T5 cover and modify it. I still can't see what the block would have to do with the T56 cover.

Originally Posted by 87350IROC

Don't know. I have a 1pc rms block and it works fine.

Originally Posted by 88 TA GTA

Thanks, the shocks haven't been replaced since I bought back in 2001, but I haven't put a lot of miles on, and when you push down several times it only bounces once or twice. I've been told if the car bounces more than 3 times you should replace, sound correct?

As for the six bolts, I don't think you would need them, but would prefer to have the two at the front and two at the back in instead of the 1st four bolt holes which are the furthest from where the T56 attaches to the cross member

Originally Posted by InfernalVortex

Just one last post on my cavalier slave cylinder. It apparently wasnt bled all the way, as it's firmed up quite a bit. It's still a soft pedal, but I can tell my foot is on it. May have just gotten used to it. I was gonna chagne it but I've grown to like it after all. It'll stay in the car. It feels "factory" now.

Originally Posted by online170

Hey folks, been waiting a LONG time now to post these pix. Just a couple more things to do till im done. SPECIAL THANKS TO SOFAKINGDOM, for recommending the two jack method. DEFINATELY the easiest and safest way to go without a transmission jack. Just make sure atleast one of the jacks has a large cup, like VBMike mentioned earilier.

KCobra, its probably the same amount of work for going from T5-T56 or 700-T56, only change is, with auto you have to cut the firewall holes, and the shifter hole. In manual, you just have to cut the shifter hole.

Anyways. I didnt get to the tranny yesterday, cuz after 8 hours of differential equations, derivatives, C++ programming, and stress analysis, i was a little toast to work on the car.

The REALLY annoying part was though, today it just kinda slid in. I didnt even need any help, like there was never a problem. I had to jiggle a bit to get the dowel pins to go in, but other than that it was smooth.

I tried a bit of a different approach, instead of concentrating on putting the shaft in straight, i was concentrating on lining up the tranny to bell housing bolts. After i got that, i looked through the middle of the slave cylinder mounting studs, and tried to get theh inputshaft parallel, to match the tranny to engine angle. Worked pretty good.

Heres my older bro, putting on a couple bolts to hold the tranny in place.


Heres a close up of the dowel pins, JUST started on, and we tightened it on with the bolts after that. Since we can see this, im gonna use this to say, the fork was kinda tricky to put on. I just pushed it in, but its really a guess if its in the correct spot becasue you cant see anything. I pulled the end i could see, and slid it on, so the other end was closest to the clutch. This ensured it made it onto the throwout bearing. When the slave was mounted, the fork sat flush with the bell housing.


Heres the slave cylinder mounted. I found the hose is VERY VERY EXACTLY JUST the right size. No give or slack in it, i was afraid to break it.


FInally, this is what i was saying earlier. When i cut the hole, i just measured from the bell housing BACK, drilled ONE hole. and use that to cut the square. Problem with that is, when youre under the car, you dont know what STRAIGHT back is. As you can see i drilled the hole, too close to the left. (the transmission isnt fully raised so i can fix it a bit). No matter, i cut as little as possible, so i can just enlarge the hole to fit.

Originally Posted by InfernalVortex

The way these things just drop themselves into place out of nowhere after anywhere between 5 minutes and 5 hours of incessant struggle never ceases to amaze me. It's always RIGHT before you give up... and they just slip right in.

And I've got a transmission jack! I cant imagine how awful it must be without one.

Originally Posted by Thirdgen89GTA

I thank you for this picture. Based on that alone I got my shifter hole spot on. I even had to trim it every so slightly so it didn't rub against the rear of the shifter assembly.

I'll take a new pic of it today with the trans installed but here's the trans out.

Unlike you I decided to drill the spot welds out to remove the entire bracket instead of cutting it with a dremel. can't say I like either way. I plan to goop some body body seam glue on the drill holes that aren't covered.

Originally Posted by Hello, Michael

I know this is an old thread, but i have a question. I'm kind of confused with the whole part about modifying the master cylinder rod. The pedals, trans, and master/slave cylinder assembly i have are out of a 94 camaro. I plan on using a stock clutch assembly, so do I need to modify the master cylinder rod, or will the rod travel be correct for a factory set up. I know you mentioned something about a high performance clutch, but the one i'm using is stock. Does the aftermarket high perf clutch have a different amount of travel?

Originally Posted by alloy

if your using the 3rd gen pedals you will need to modify the rod. The clutch will disengage very high. Shortening the rod takes care of that. I've been running mine like this for over 4 years now.

Originally Posted by LilSki

Without modification you can overextend the slave and push the clutch fork into the pressure plate in some applications.

Originally Posted by oamhmad

For those of you who are curious about how to resolve the speedometer issue after a swap, here is what i did:

It's an Autometer 5" programmable electric speedo. It accepts the signal directly from the t56 VSS. This is what it looks like in a stock Firebird gauge-pod/cluster.

I had to take the speedometer apart and hack up the back of the stock gauge-pod a little bit, but the end result looks pretty good i think.

Eventually I plan on replacing all the gauges so they match. Just didn't want to spend like a grand upfront doing so.

Originally Posted by LilSki

I did the swap from 85 mechanical cluster to an 89 electronic unit. Requires repining the dash but it works great. And it is probably the cheapest option.

Originally Posted by 88 TA GTA

Use the Dakota Digital SGI 5 to convert from the 87 and up Trans AM and I believe 90 Camaro electronic speedo. Our cars (with electronic, not cable driven) has a 4000 or 2000 pulse per mile. The T56 has a 17 pulse per mile VSS. The SGI 5 converts the 17 pulses to 4000 or 2000 depending on how you adjust it and what your car requires. I'm still trying to fine to mine. I'm either 18 miles under or 50 miles over my actual speed. I have moved the sensitivity (#2) switch and think I need to move #4 Cal Range. Haven't had time to get back to this yet.

Originally Posted by Thirdgen89GTA

93' T56's are 11ppr, 94+ are 17ppr.

PPR is pules per revolution as measured at the tailshaft.

the 2000, and 4000ppm is Pules Per Mile, a different measurement.

With an 11PPR from a 93' T56 you can run a stock electric speedo with no real mods. However, it will be off slightly. My speedo reads about 5mph high @ 70mph actual.

I'm doing a 4th gen dash swap later so I just sold my Dakota Digital box.

Originally Posted by 88 TA GTA

Thanks thirdgen89GTA!