So I'm having some trouble with my clutch system somewhere. I've spent a lot of time reading threads on the proper way to put on the TOB. That could still be my problem but I don't know. The first time I put everything back together the pedal felt very soft(but had some resistance), so I pulled the tranny and the clutch and saw that I had the clutch disc installed the opposite way. So I put it all back together with the clutch disc in the right way and I found that the clutch pedal had it's normal resistance, and I thought the problem was gone. I can now shift into 1-5 but it's very hard to get it into gear and I can start the car in gear and go. Can anyone help me out here? Everything worked before I did the swap

 

Did you happen to bleed the system? Sounds like you have air in the system. Where does your pedal start to disengage the clutch? If you push almost to the floor before anything happens, you probably have air that needs bled out.

 

I didn't mess with the hydraulics at all, didn't disconnect it and it worked fine before, and I have bled the system. I don't think hydraulics is my issue, but I will bleed again today to make sure. The spring clip is broke on the back of my clutch fork, could that be my issue? If I have to pull the trans again....(for the 3rd time) I'll post a pic of what the backside of the fork looks like

 

See this link

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tran...sition+picture

 

I believe that the tangs of the clip hold the fork onto the pivot ball.. is this correct? The t56 fork and pivot ball looks a bit different than the t5 so... This brings up another question about the fork.. when I was putting the tranny in, the fork wouldn't move the bearing freely BY HAND. It was stuck in one spot. Is this because the bearing is stuck to the input shaft somewhere? The fork should move the TOB freely BY HAND after the trans is installed CORRECT? I'm about to go diagnose this in about an hour so I need all the advice I can get

 

Need a T-5 EXPERT.........???????????

 

Matter of fact I do! Haha. I'll have some pics up later today of the fork so you can see it and let me know what you think

 

It takes a good deal of force to move that clutch fork. I'm not an expert by far, but i'm 99% sure with everything installed you should NOT be able to move the clutch fork by hand. Think how hard it is to push the pedal when its operating correctly, there is a lot of mechanical advantage in the pedal that helps you move that clutch fork.

 

I see exactly what you're saying and I understand the mechanical advantage with the hydraulics. But once you take the slave cylinder off, shouldn't the fork be able to slide the TOB back and forth by hand on the input shaft? I ordered a new fork I'll post a pic as soon as I get the tranny out I'm in the middle of it now, for the 3rd time D:

 

"shouldn't the fork be able to slide the TOB back and forth by hand on the input shaft?" YES, that is what I meant, It should slide freely BY HAND, with hydraulisc disconnected.

If, not, something is binding and not right.

 

Just what I was looking for thank you. I'll keep this updated

 

Well I'm 99% sure that is the problem. The pivot ba has been bmcontacting the clutch fork all over the place. Just got a new clutch fork, I'll let ya guys know if it fixes my problem.

 

Which did you install in the crank; a pilot bearing, or bushing?

 

I'm not quite sure. Whatever the stock 305 setup came with.

Here is a side by side

 

It doesn't come with one ordinarily. You have to put one in.

Emphasis on HAVE TO.



Should look about like that. That's a pilot bearing; a pilot bushing is similar except it's one solid piece.

If you don't have that, there will be nothing supporting the tip of the transmission's clutch gear, the shaft thing the clutch disc rides on. Not only will it fail to work right, but also, it will ruin the transmission quickly.

Don't forget to put a blob of grease in the fork where it fits over the ball.

 

This isn't an auto to manual swap, its just a clutch replacement so it should have a pilot bushing in there alread.

 

Which should be replaced along with the clutch.

Although, a guy from NY saying the guy from MI has something in the crank already sounds like it might have good street cred as a parts warranty, no?

 

'Should' have a pilot bushing in there, and yes it 'should' be replaced with the clutch.

 

Well guys I put the fork on there and it still isn't disengaging properly. Im thinking I should buy a new clutch kit as soon as I can. That and I have to take a look at the master, but sometimes when driving she slides right in to gear so right now that's the way I'm driving it. I'm a little dissapointed

 

So, was there a bushing in there, or a bearing? What kinda condition was it in? Did ya greeeeze it?