Going to remove donor parts for a T5 conversion from a donor car - tips, tricks?
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,972
Likes: 127
From: Los Angeles
Car: 1989 IROC Convertible
Engine: 350 TPI L98
Transmission: WC T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Going to remove donor parts for a T5 conversion from a donor car - tips, tricks?
The owner of the car has an air compressor. I will be bringing most of my tools- impact gun, impact wrench, sockets, etc- the usual stuff. And a jack and jack stands. I will be removing all the parts to convert my TH700- pedals, cylinder, bellhousing, clutch, crossmember, flywheel, etc.
Anything I should watch out for or special tools or tricks that will help with the extraction?
Just removing and collecting tomorrow, not installing.
Anything I should watch out for or special tools or tricks that will help with the extraction?
Just removing and collecting tomorrow, not installing.
Re: Going to remove donor parts for a T5 conversion from a donor car - tips, tricks?
The owner of the car has an air compressor. I will be bringing most of my tools- impact gun, impact wrench, sockets, etc- the usual stuff. And a jack and jack stands. I will be removing all the parts to convert my TH700- pedals, cylinder, bellhousing, clutch, crossmember, flywheel, etc.
Anything I should watch out for or special tools or tricks that will help with the extraction?
Just removing and collecting tomorrow, not installing.
Anything I should watch out for or special tools or tricks that will help with the extraction?
Just removing and collecting tomorrow, not installing.
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 12,805
Likes: 107
From: Central NJ
Car: 86 Trans Am
Engine: 408 stroker sbc
Transmission: TKO600
Axle/Gears: Moser full floater m9, 3:70 trutrac
Re: Going to remove donor parts for a T5 conversion from a donor car - tips, tricks?
Everything is pretty straight forward, but getting the pedals out can be a bear. It helps to bring a few long extensions and a universal bit. Unbolting and dropping the steering column helps a lot.
Take pictures of the clutch master cutout location to make it easier to do on your car.
Dont forget the computer prom, if applicable.
Take pictures of the clutch master cutout location to make it easier to do on your car.
Dont forget the computer prom, if applicable.
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 6,521
Likes: 91
From: Aridzona
Car: `86 SS / `87 SS
Engine: L69 w/ TPI on top / 305 4bbl
Transmission: `95 T56 \ `88 200-4R
Re: Going to remove donor parts for a T5 conversion from a donor car - tips, tricks?
Nuts for the pedals are 15mm. Wobble socket or wobble adapter is a good idea. Maybe break loose w/ 3/8 tools and remove w/ 1/4" stuff. Don't forget the 5th bolt.
Nuts for the master cylinder u-bolt are 13mm.
The column is manual, too. Key removal lever / button built into it.
Nuts for the master cylinder u-bolt are 13mm.
The column is manual, too. Key removal lever / button built into it.
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 4,353
Likes: 308
From: NJ
Car: 92 Firebird
Engine: 4.8 LR4
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.45 9 Bolt
Re: Going to remove donor parts for a T5 conversion from a donor car - tips, tricks?
Make sure you get the firewall doubler for the clutch master. You will see it once you get the pedals out and pull the insulation pad. You'll need a saw, or drill
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 5,028
Likes: 78
From: Desert
Car: 1991 Z28 Vert
Engine: 383 single plane efi
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 8.8 with 3.73s
Re: Going to remove donor parts for a T5 conversion from a donor car - tips, tricks?
Make a template of the firewall's mounting holes from a piece of poster board. Makes mounting the manual pedals much easier. I showed it in my build thread: https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/memb...ml#post6083928
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 5,703
Likes: 132
From: Orange, CA
Car: '90 Trans Am-12.45@110.71
Engine: 355 w/AFR 195's Elem. 400/430 HP/TQ
Transmission: Tremec T-56
Axle/Gears: 12 Bolt 3.73
Re: Going to remove donor parts for a T5 conversion from a donor car - tips, tricks?
The flywheel bolts will be really tight, bring something to hold it.
Don't forget the starter you will need it.
Torque arm mount too, it's different.
Take the backup light plug you need it too.
Don't forget the starter you will need it.
Torque arm mount too, it's different.
Take the backup light plug you need it too.
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,972
Likes: 127
From: Los Angeles
Car: 1989 IROC Convertible
Engine: 350 TPI L98
Transmission: WC T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Re: Going to remove donor parts for a T5 conversion from a donor car - tips, tricks?
Thanks everyone. All good stuff. I should have checked for updates that morning but my middle son and I left at 5:30AM for a 90 mile drive. I pretty much had thrown all my tools in, a sawzall, etc. We had air tools. It was a pretty straightforward job.
The pedals were a pain but dropping the steering column let us get at the firewall bolts with about three feet of extensions. The fifth bolt was spotted after ten minutes of agonizing, inverted, kneeling-neck twisting observation.
I did not:
1. get the firewall doubler - junkyard or fabricate?
2. make a stencil outline of the openings for the clutch master piston - I'll read the threads
3. the starter - could buy a rebuilt one
The pedals were a pain but dropping the steering column let us get at the firewall bolts with about three feet of extensions. The fifth bolt was spotted after ten minutes of agonizing, inverted, kneeling-neck twisting observation.
I did not:
1. get the firewall doubler - junkyard or fabricate?
2. make a stencil outline of the openings for the clutch master piston - I'll read the threads
3. the starter - could buy a rebuilt one
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,972
Likes: 127
From: Los Angeles
Car: 1989 IROC Convertible
Engine: 350 TPI L98
Transmission: WC T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Re: Going to remove donor parts for a T5 conversion from a donor car - tips, tricks?
Is that the "doubler"? That extra layer of metal?
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 4,353
Likes: 308
From: NJ
Car: 92 Firebird
Engine: 4.8 LR4
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.45 9 Bolt
Re: Going to remove donor parts for a T5 conversion from a donor car - tips, tricks?
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,972
Likes: 127
From: Los Angeles
Car: 1989 IROC Convertible
Engine: 350 TPI L98
Transmission: WC T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Re: Going to remove donor parts for a T5 conversion from a donor car - tips, tricks?
So you guys weren't kidding about cutting it out with a sawzall! I should probably head to parts yard and cut one out or at least stencil a template. Would it be the same for all models (V6 and V8)?
Re: Going to remove donor parts for a T5 conversion from a donor car - tips, tricks?
84-up, yes. 83 was mechanical.
Save that photo, or another like it. Scale it whichever image editing software you like until the bolt holes measure the same as your clutch master. Print and glue to heavier cardboard, and cut out your template. Use your new template to cut a new piece from steel. Hang the pedals in your car, and swing the support bars against the firewall, slip your doubler in place so it lines up with the holes in the bars, outline the doubler with a sharpie and remove all of the above. Mark the oval hole on the firewall, and drill a large enough round hole to clear the master. Line up your doubler, and plug weld the doubler to your firewall.
Otherwise... You can fumble with trying to drill two round holes with a holesaw that overlap (hint: that doesn't work without something for the pilot to center on.) but it's easier to just blast a round hole like GM did, and leave the oval to the doubler where it's easier to drill outside the car. Or skip the doubler, and maybe flex and crack the firewall. People seem to get away without the doubler, but GM used one.
Save that photo, or another like it. Scale it whichever image editing software you like until the bolt holes measure the same as your clutch master. Print and glue to heavier cardboard, and cut out your template. Use your new template to cut a new piece from steel. Hang the pedals in your car, and swing the support bars against the firewall, slip your doubler in place so it lines up with the holes in the bars, outline the doubler with a sharpie and remove all of the above. Mark the oval hole on the firewall, and drill a large enough round hole to clear the master. Line up your doubler, and plug weld the doubler to your firewall.
Otherwise... You can fumble with trying to drill two round holes with a holesaw that overlap (hint: that doesn't work without something for the pilot to center on.) but it's easier to just blast a round hole like GM did, and leave the oval to the doubler where it's easier to drill outside the car. Or skip the doubler, and maybe flex and crack the firewall. People seem to get away without the doubler, but GM used one.
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,972
Likes: 127
From: Los Angeles
Car: 1989 IROC Convertible
Engine: 350 TPI L98
Transmission: WC T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Re: Going to remove donor parts for a T5 conversion from a donor car - tips, tricks?
I like the template aspect of having the actual piece as well as the reinforcement. I've put up a Parts Wanted post for the cutout section shipped to LA for (I think) a fair sum. Photo credits: Drew.
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,972
Likes: 127
From: Los Angeles
Car: 1989 IROC Convertible
Engine: 350 TPI L98
Transmission: WC T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Re: Going to remove donor parts for a T5 conversion from a donor car - tips, tricks?
Man, no luck. I may drive back out to the donor car and cut it out or I could do your scale up method Drew. I'm leaning towards that. I can make a reinforcement plate (or heck maybe just some big washers) to beef up the firewall
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
91RS5spd
Brakes
10
Nov 16, 2009 01:38 PM
Psycho_91Camaro
Tech / General Engine
88
Aug 8, 2006 10:25 AM
MikeH
Tech / General Engine
10
Mar 28, 2001 12:59 PM












