OK I have lived in cali for a few years now and 1 thing I have learned is in engine modding around here is if it cant be seen than its will most likly pass smog with out much problem.. IE: like stroking a 350 to a 383.. smags jsut fine and no quiesting asked.. So here my thought.. could I use a 3.1 or 3.4 block and innards and the 2.8 intake and assory.. IE alt, steering, A/C brackets and units.. And how about the ECM and wiring?

 

yes you can. you just use the 3.4 Block, waterpump, and the 3.4 injectors in the 2.8 fuel rail. the injectors are the same only the 3.4 ones deliver more fuel to makeup for the larger displacement.

 

Cool.. So I can make a sleeper 3.4 with 2.8 marking and parts..

 

read up on Karls' (KED85) article in the tech article section. He did this swap on his 85 Bird & Blazer.

 

I looked at that.. not any real info.. I like to know if my ECM needs to be changed and if the harness needs changing also.. or are we talking a direct replacment here? Just swap block and parts? or will I need diffrent exh, oilpan, or is this all justa bolt on job.. Smog here can really tie me up if thay find a excues to not pass it here.. And I have to also pass a light, brake check.. ( Have no clue what there looking for there.. ) Never had to do that one before..

 

the 3.4 is bolt for bolt Identical to a 2.8L block exept for 2 differences i know of, the waterpump circulates in the opposite direction which is no big deal cause you just use the 3.4 pump, and it dont have a boss for a mechanical clutch on the rear of the block, no big deal cause you have a Auto. the ECU and everything else will work on the 3.4 you only need to change the injectors to the higher flow 3.4 injectors to compensate for the extra CID.

 

Thats great news.. Im going to keep my eye out for the next pick and pull sale on engine and grab up one..

 

The 3.4 RWD block has a distictive "F" casting on the side of it as well as cross hatch reinforcement ribbing as seen here. The FWD 3.4 and the rwd 2.8 and 3.1's do not have these markings and reinforcment.

 

ok? So do not get that block?

 

DO look for that block casting on engines in a salvage yard. Its the one you DO want.

GM has stopped making these motors as crate replacement engines last year when the 4th gen 3.4 became over 10 years old. You can only find them used now.

 

no problem.. I was planning on pullng one for a S yard anyway..

 

So you know, I am actually an old member around here with 1000's of post, just an new name (Long story)

Anyways, I too live in So Calif (City of Orange)and am going to be putting my 3.4 into my wifescar within about the next year- Its a proven smog inspection passing stealth swap. I need to finish major house projects first then I will finish my motor project. I do know these cars like the back of my hand. Any info you need on suspensions etc, just ask and I can help point you as to whats the best bang for the buck. Most of everything I have done to our 3rd gen is custom 1 of a kind stuff though. Here's a link to it.

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/att...postid=2162232
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/518752/1

 

Cool looking.. So U know about dealing with cali smog.. I had a 86 Ford Ranger that wouldnt pass smog becouse a code keeped popping up for a tranny problem.. that real problem it was a code for a auto and it was a 5 speed..

 

Hmm is this where a Fan switch goes on a 2.8?

 

Just a thought tho.. what cars have the 3.4 block that I will be looking for?

 

93+ Firebirds and camaros that came with V6s. some where in the middle of the 4th gen run they changed to 3.8s but i dont know when they switched.

 

93 - 95 I beleive. Camero and firebirds.

 

I created a thread with all your answers, and step by step directions.


https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=339280

 

thats great info Dale.. thanks for the tech.. Now I have a full plan ..

 

in this picture, where is the sensor that has to be moved? I think it was the crank position sensor or something?

 

how much more hp will the 3.4 block give you over the 2.8 block?

 

ooo I got this one!

2.8 = 135 hp

3.4 = 160 hp

 

ooo I got this one!

2.8 = 135 hp

3.4 = 160 hp

 

Read the thread I linked too.

 

ya but will the 2.8 intake make a loss of any hp?

 

the 3.4intake plenum is the same on the bottom they just changed it to clear the 4th gen hood. i have seen one and it did not look like it had any more flow capacity.

 

Just wanted to correct this info, the FWD 3.4 AKA 3400 does indeed have the reinforment, also the block around the cylinders is buldged, to provide a higher capacity of coolant, around the cylinders.

 

So this would better handle the higher heat around here than if I get this right.. More coolent means better cooling compacty..

 

only of you want to F with trying to fit a FWD block with very different mounts into a RWD car. it can be done cause i think some one on here on TGO was talking about it. I think it was doward?

 

This si true, the FWD block is not a blot in to the RWD chassis.

I will most likely be starting with a FWD block for my Frankenbeast build, since I'll hgave to fit the chassis to it anyway. Still looking for a good chassis.

 

on that pic u posted the one part that is circled with black is that the sensor everyone says gets in the way and is a bitch cause i just pulled out a monkey wrench took it off and stuck a hex plug that is used by plumbers.

 

and 160 ft lbs - 200ft lbs!!!, i gave up on removing the damn plug from the head, i drilled and tapped a hole 11/16" drill bit and 3/8" pipe tread tap, but when i swapped heads i smashed the fan switch that i had moved and it was in a tight spot..so i ended up putting a fan switch back in its original spot since the hole was open..it might be cheaper to ask for a 3.4 short block and have your 2.8 heads rebuilt or get new ones and put them on, because based on what ive read, it takes WAYY to long to remove that plug...and you could have swapped in new heads by then and not ever have to worry about that valvetrain breaking down. i wish i did that first, cuase i cooked valves on both heads and replaced them both anyway

 

oh u guys are talking abou that sensor on the corner of the one head? cause i'm just gunna leave it in if worked b4 with it in it will work again.

 

I say send the heads to a machine shop and have them deal with the removal of that plug

 

does it end up getting in the way?