jiyasa

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys, I recently replaced all of my fuel injectors for my v6 bird. injectors 5 and 6 are new, 1-4 are remanufactured injectors from southbay. The car seems to run fine going down the road, it runs smoother but for some odd reason whenever I slow down and turn the wheel and get through the turn the car dies and the CEL comes on. All I can figure is the power steering is maybe somehow pulling enough energy off the battery and killing the engine. I've changed out the throttle body sensor, IAT sensor, map sensor, IAC sensor I believe, checked for vacuum leaks, don't know what else to do. Any ideas as to what could be causing this? Thanks in advance

Base91

iTrader: (1)

What about slowing down and not turning? Same both directions? What about starting slow and turning? Maybe something moving and breaking a connection. Check grounds/connections etc.

RBob

iTrader: (1)

Do an idle learn procedure.

RBob.

jiyasa

iTrader: (1)

Sorry for the slow response. I drove it today and it seems like the engine dying is not a constant thing, only when I let the car coast without giving any gas the engine will drop below 500 RPM and die. It was just coincidence that I was turning the wheel when it would die. I did an idle learn procedure just prior to changing out the injectors out of desperation but I think I will do it again now that I replaced them and do a tune-up and set the idle a little higher. Prior to changing out the injectors my idle would sit at about 1,500 RPM but it seems to have evened out some. Any other things you guys think I should check or reset? Thanks in advance.

Base91

iTrader: (1)

First you can't set the idle it's controlled by the computer. If you're still having issues after new injectors there are other things you can do. Have you checked electrical connections, vacuum leaks etc. etc.? Make sure all the sensors and engine components are in good repair and read any codes that may have been thrown.

jiyasa

iTrader: (1)

Okay so resetting the idle isn't something that I can do from home? (I'm not very car savvy) I went outside and did an idle learn procedure today and during the last stage (let idle for 5 min) it threw a code 13. I've had this code for the last two and a half years and thought maybe if I replace the injectors it may solve the problem. I noticed today that in the later stages of the procedure that the idle was erratic. In park it stays at about 1,500 RPM, in drive it fluxuates between 700-1,000 RPM. I know of the few sensors I haven't replaced is the o2 sensor, would you suggest I buy a new one and replace it? To date I know I have replaced the map sensor, IAT sensor, throttle body sensor, checked for vacuum leaks, fuel pump seems fine.

Just out of curiousity, I've noticed like myself a lot of people with the 3.1L 91 birds have been having similar problems and I read something about these cars having problems with the VATS system, what is this? I noticed you had trouble out of your bird, base, how did you eventually deal with the problem? Thanks in advance.

antares57

iTrader: (8)

Hey, I've got a 91 base Firebird and whenever I disconnect the battery, to do some engine work, the computer loses it's setting and I have to do a IAC learn. There are two ways, that I have found in the forums and the service manual, that don't involve a code scanner. This first one is the best that works for me. Start the car and do some driving that you would normally do for at least 20 minutes, preferably not all highway driving. When you get back to your final destination leave the car in drive and depress the brakes for 60 seconds, place the car in park and turn it off. Leave it for about 20 minutes and when you start it again it's supposed to use the pattern of your driving to set it's idle speed. The other method is easier but it's more of a touch and go. When your ready to start your vehicle, turn the key to the on position for 5 seconds but do not engage the ignition to start the car. then turn the key to the off position for 10 seconds, then start your vehicle. The vehicle will start learning at that point while your driving. Both of these methods have worked for me particularly when I changed out the TPS and IAC valve. Initially the car would die when I slowed down suddenly or rounded a turn. After these procedures, whether by luck or design, the vehicle set it's idle and I haven't have any problems since. Good luck and the fender and front bumper make the car look alot better. Thanks!

jiyasa

iTrader: (1)

You're welcome, Chris! I'm glad I could help you. I will definitely have to try that, at this point I'm desperate enough to try anything. Your engine would die in mid-turn or when you come to a complete stop? The idle on my car seems it's most erratic when it is at a stop/parked. The idle will drop below 500 and shudder for a second and then pick back up to around 1K or die altogether. I really am wondering if this is some gas to air ratio problem or something. I appreciate your help Chris, thank you. BTW, how would I go about thoroughly checking for vacuum leaks? It's been awhile since I've done it.

Base91

iTrader: (1)

VATS is the security system but it doesn't sound like that's your problem. Lots of people have trouble basically because these cars are now 20 years old and many of the components are at the end of their useful life. Best you can do is check/test all the components you can and make sure they are in good condition. Vacuum hoses, electrical connections etc. etc. You have to look at the symptoms and figure out what to concentrate on. My latest issue is the fuel pressure regulator leaking gas into the vacuum lines that goes to the throttle body and air pump. The gas was running down into the air pump so that's probably messed up now. I've disconnected everything that isn't strictly necessary to eliminate possible sources of error. AIR pump, vacuum a/c controls, Charcoal canister etc. When it's running good I'll reconnect stuff. You have to be patient and methodical. You should have a manual and whatever testers you can get. Fuel pressure gauge, digital volt meter, vacuum gauge and use TGO and Google to find out how to test things.

jiyasa

iTrader: (1)

Thank you base, I'm sorry you're having so many problems. It sounds like you have a pretty good handle on what's going on with your car, I hope it works out for you. Do you think maybe picking up a copy of the helm's manual would help? Thanks again

antares57

iTrader: (8)

Picked this up from somewhere in the forums. I'm sure it's been repeated several times throughout here.

"Check for a vacuum leak by spraying starting fluid or carb cleaner around the intake, plenum, and runners, when the car is running. The rpms will increase noticeably if you spray fluid over a vacuum leak. Check the vacuum hoses for leaks by grabbing them with your bare hand; if they leave your hands black, replace them."

Hope this helps.

jiyasa

iTrader: (1)

Okay, thank you Chris. I saw a youtube video where a guy used a cigar to check for leaks but that seems kinda dangerous.