86 iroc tpi running tooooooo hott..need help!
#1
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86 iroc tpi running tooooooo hott..need help!
hey thanks for reading..i have a 86 iroc 305 tpi, at. when i take the car out it runs great until about 200 degrees. Some where around this area it starts running really bad. it still idles good and sounds good, but when you step on it, it goes no where. Also it keeps getting hotter. I have an aluminum radiator in there with a single electric fan. I got these from a v6 car in the recking yard but the fan works and the radiator is the same as the one that was in the car when i got it. (had to replace because of an accident.) I have a new 180 degree stat, and a new radiator cap. I am all out of ideas with this car. So I guess I want to know #1, why is the car running so hot?, #2 why does the car start running bad at around 200?......if anyone knows whats going on or even has an idea let me know..if you need more info. on the car or any questions please ask so i can maybe figure out what the problem is....thanks!
#2
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my cars normal temp is 220 and it has plenty of power their..
is the water pump in good condition?
sounds like maybe a clog in the system, could be around the heater core?
maybe a hose collapsing..
also what kinda coolant mixture are you running?
is the fan always on? if not run a switch to it to make it come on earlier..
is the water pump in good condition?
sounds like maybe a clog in the system, could be around the heater core?
maybe a hose collapsing..
also what kinda coolant mixture are you running?
is the fan always on? if not run a switch to it to make it come on earlier..
#3
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as far as it not moving when you pressed the gas, this happenned to me to, while moving off, the engine would rev smoothly to 1500rpms and stay there for like 4 seconds, then keep revving. this happenned when the car was about 220 degrees, i thought it was the converter, miund u, my car allways runs at 220 with no problem, that day just sucked.
#4
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Car: 1991 Z28 Convertible
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23 with Eaton posi
hang on..clarify....you have the same radiator as when you got the car, but you put an aluminum rad in from a wrecking yard?
#5
COOL DOWN
I WOULD THINK IT HAS TO DO WITH THE RADIATOR BEING CLOGGED OR THE WATER PUMP...CHECK THE PUMP FOR PLAY THEN START THE MOTOR AND TAKE THE RADIATOR CAP OFF TOO SEE HOW WELL THE RADIATOR IS FLOWING,MY DAD HAD A SIMILAR PROBLEM WITH HIS VAN AND WE USED A ZEREZ FLUSH KIT AND IT WORKED(AMAZINGLY CAUSE I DONT BELIEVE IN THOSE FLUSHES)...THE CAR PROBABLY RUNS BAD CAUSE IT GOES INTO OPEN LOOP I THINK OR IS IT CLOSED LOOP..CHECK FOR THE ENGINE LIGHT AND RETRIEVE THE CODES,YOU SHOULD UPGRADE TO THE DUAL COOLING FANS THOSE ARE PRETTY GOOD..WELL THAT WAS MY THOUGHT....CHECK THE THERMOSTAT
#6
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let the car warm up, then check the hose going in or out of the radiator, they shouldn't be easy to pinch down on, the should be really fricken firm. check for a small amount of seepage (of coolant) under the car, a small amount could be coming from the weep hole of the water pump, this is a sign of failure of the pump or at least can lead up to it. mine started doing the same thing at around 200 as well, only did it once, never did it again, then a few weeks after, the car overheated. currently fixing it now. i'll let you know.
#7
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the car has a new water pump, stat, cap. I am going to drain it tomorrow and flush it, then replace it with a 70% water, 30% coolant mix. I am also going to get some of the water wetter stuff thats supposed to help cool. Hopefully this will help it run a little cooler, but I don't think it is going to fix it because today I was out driving it around to see if it would get hot, and it was actually doing good but when it got around 190-200 it had its last burst of energy and then went to not moving at all when i step on it and when i do it rev's to high and changes gears at the wrong time..i am thinking it is maybe a sensor or something..i don't know because it should still be able to run normal at 190-200 or even higher but for some reason around 190 it goes from running normal to running terrible...although it still idles good and everything, but it has terrible response when i am trying to get it going out of its own way...
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#8
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maybe the hose going into the water pump is collapsing from the suction of the pump itself. is there a support wire inside the hose? it might not be necessary to install one, not sure, but it sure is a good idea, just for support. essentially all it is, is a wore(coat hanger thickness) wound inside the hose to keep it opened up and not sucked down. never know, but better check it out while you have the system drained! geez i hope you read this before you fill the sucker back up with fresh water and coolant
#10
ANOTHER THING YOU CAN TRY I DID IT ON MY CAR LOOK THRU A SUMMIT CATALOG AND THEY SELL AN IMPELLER THAT HELPS PUMP MORE WATER ITS RIVETED TO THE BACK IMPELLER OF THE PUMP IT TOOK ME ABOUT 10 MINUTES TO DO SO YOU MIGHT TRY THAT
#12
yeah electric fans are the best,let me be more clear on what i wrote before..it took me 10 minutes to rivet the impeller to the water pump..lol..sorry i dont want u to think it took me 10 minutes to do all the work..these forums u get some smart asses ...hows the car now??
#13
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well i'm not sure if you were asking me, but i'm bored so i'll tell anyways. changed the thermo, did not do the trick. got ready on the water pump, and it started to rain big time. so i had to close up shop until tomarrow, no garage.
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