To Drive Or Not To Drive
#1
To Drive Or Not To Drive
So i picked up a yellow 86 iroc a while ago for my first car its all original yellow on black custom cloth interior only 86k miles and in outstanding condition now my problem is should i daily drive this thing or try to keep it as clean as possible and get a beater now keep in mind i blew all my money on this thing and if i were to get a beater it would have to be a thirdgen, i took the car to a few shows and i had about 6 people come over and tell me not to drive it and get something else and i agree but i also want to enjoy it and drive it i also had multiple people ask to buy it for way more than i spent on it which makes me think ok this car is rare but is it really that rare to the point where i shouldnt drive it, so there should i daily it or not because its kinda hard to find a third gen you can daily with out spending a fortune feed back is much appreciated
p.s if i didnt post this in the correct area feel free to delete or move to the correct forum
p.s if i didnt post this in the correct area feel free to delete or move to the correct forum
#4
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Re: To Drive Or Not To Drive
It depends where you're located, and what your weather is like. Salty winter roads with lots of sand for grip will eat a thirdgen in a few seasons. Hail is always on my mind. You also can't control other inattentive drivers, insurance adjusters, and so on.
I drove my 83 Camaro through two South Dakota winters, it got in a fender bender and I had the body shop fix all the light rust that was starting to show up along the rockers and behind the wheels. After another harsh winter it was all chewed up again and the rust was setting in again. Since then my thirdgens have all been fair weather cars, aside from my beater 91 Firebird. When that car went to the junkyard and the gfx were robbed, I understand there was a lot of rust underneath.
Another thing to consider is that it's a relatively safe bet that the car isn't remotely waterproof anymore. The seam sealers GM used on these cars have long since turned brittle and cracked. Even when it looks ok, there's usually water getting around it. I'd suggest going as far as limiting the water during washes to keep the damage to a minimum.
I drove my 83 Camaro through two South Dakota winters, it got in a fender bender and I had the body shop fix all the light rust that was starting to show up along the rockers and behind the wheels. After another harsh winter it was all chewed up again and the rust was setting in again. Since then my thirdgens have all been fair weather cars, aside from my beater 91 Firebird. When that car went to the junkyard and the gfx were robbed, I understand there was a lot of rust underneath.
Another thing to consider is that it's a relatively safe bet that the car isn't remotely waterproof anymore. The seam sealers GM used on these cars have long since turned brittle and cracked. Even when it looks ok, there's usually water getting around it. I'd suggest going as far as limiting the water during washes to keep the damage to a minimum.
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WildCard600 (10-07-2019)
#5
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Car: 1989 IROC-Z. Original owner
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Re: To Drive Or Not To Drive
Drive it, but like Drew said, avoid the weather.
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WildCard600 (10-07-2019)
#6
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Car: 1986 IROC Z
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Re: To Drive Or Not To Drive
It's your car; drive it as you see fit. I would, however, add that, as already mentioned, you'd do well to avoid snow and salt in the Winter by having a 2nd vehicle to drive at that time.
#7
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Re: To Drive Or Not To Drive
You wont enjoy watching it collect dust in the shed. Drive it but not in inclement weather and such. I wouldn't daily drive it honestly but drive it and enjoy it as much as you can. Gorgeous car btw!
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sonjaab (10-09-2019)
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Re: To Drive Or Not To Drive
IMO, value wise, putting some mileage on it at this point won't really have an effect on value. Especially if you keep it nice and clean. As a daily driver and only vehicle though, regardless of condition, a pretty original car will need quite a decent number of down days through the year as things will inevitably break and usually leave you stuck. As for the year round thing, don't even try it. Driving a third gen in snow is about as good as riding a skate board through a blizzard. Not to mention the rust, the paint damage, the salt stains on your carpet, and that's just a few examples
#9
Re: To Drive Or Not To Drive
Ok well thanks so much for the feedback it really does help i have just a few more questions i live in new york so we get heavy winters occasionally i dont have a garage i store the car on my driveway under a weather proof cover thats not the best in the world and i was just wondering is rust still gonna be a huge factor if i dont drive it and just keep it under the cover over the winter or is there more precautions i should take for rust prevention mind you this car has spent its entire life in a nice cozy garage before i got it so theres not a spec of rust anywhere and i dont want to leave it out over the winter and comeback in the spring to see bubbling popping up any help is much appreciated
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Car: 1986 IROC Z
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Re: To Drive Or Not To Drive
Ok well thanks so much for the feedback it really does help i have just a few more questions i live in new york so we get heavy winters occasionally i dont have a garage i store the car on my driveway under a weather proof cover thats not the best in the world and i was just wondering is rust still gonna be a huge factor if i dont drive it and just keep it under the cover over the winter or is there more precautions i should take for rust prevention mind you this car has spent its entire life in a nice cozy garage before i got it so theres not a spec of rust anywhere and i dont want to leave it out over the winter and comeback in the spring to see bubbling popping up any help is much appreciated
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WildCard600 (10-07-2019)
#11
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Car: 89 Firebird
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Re: To Drive Or Not To Drive
Any unpainted metal surfaces such as the suspension, exhaust system, etc., will surface-rust just from the moisture in the air; the only real prevention is indoor storage in an enclosed garage. Car "covers" used as the only weather barrier can be a double-edged sword; some will trap moisture and cause mold to form on the vehicle.
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Car: 1991 Z28
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Re: To Drive Or Not To Drive
Ok well thanks so much for the feedback it really does help i have just a few more questions i live in new york so we get heavy winters occasionally i dont have a garage i store the car on my driveway under a weather proof cover thats not the best in the world and i was just wondering is rust still gonna be a huge factor if i dont drive it and just keep it under the cover over the winter or is there more precautions i should take for rust prevention mind you this car has spent its entire life in a nice cozy garage before i got it so theres not a spec of rust anywhere and i dont want to leave it out over the winter and comeback in the spring to see bubbling popping up any help is much appreciated
#14
Re: To Drive Or Not To Drive
damn that actually happened already the water sat on the nose while i was out on vacation and i came back there was stripes of clear coat gone and i was sooo pissed i tried getting a refund but the company only insisted in giving me a new cover i really have no clue on which cover to get ive looked around and my father has a vinyl cover for his vette for the past 6 years and it worked awesome but i cant seem to find a company that makes one for a thirdgen, it sucks to spend 140 dollars on a cover just to have it screw you over ive been thinking of just getting a vinyl cover that they would put on like a boat or something and get one a similar size to the car and put that over the cover to keep the water off
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Car: 1989 Pontiac Formula 350
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Re: To Drive Or Not To Drive
They're meant to be driven, but using it for a commute seems wasteful. I'd get a 4 cylinder ecobox for that. I'm not opposed to putting a ton of miles on a car like that, but they should be fun miles
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WildCard600 (10-07-2019)
#16
Re: To Drive Or Not To Drive
nice car , drive it as much as you can before the weather hits .. try and find some cheap indoor storage if you can .. as far as rare , not really .. its a 80k mile yellow 86 iroc and really nothing special but looks like a real nice car to drive around in ..
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Car: 89 GTA ASC Conv., Prev: 89 GTA 6.3L
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Re: To Drive Or Not To Drive
With that many miles, it's already a "driven car", so keep on driving...
#18
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Re: To Drive Or Not To Drive
RENT A STORAGE UNIT!
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Buddy (10-08-2019)
#19
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Re: To Drive Or Not To Drive
A beater would probably be helpful, but enjoy the IROC.
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Car: 1988 Pontiac Trans Am GTA
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Re: To Drive Or Not To Drive
"To drive or not to drive" is a conundrum for me as well. My GTA had 32K on it when I bought it in Feb. of 2019. I'm up to 35.5K now. I'm torn between just driving it all the time, or keeping it really clean. Over the next decade I think it could really increase in value, but I didn't buy it as any sort of investment. I bought it because I like it. I really don't see myself ever selling it.
There's no point in dying rich, enjoy your life and spend your money. Kind of the same thing with my Firebird. Why die with a low-mileage car? (I hope I'm not that close to the end, but I think you get the idea.)
There's no point in dying rich, enjoy your life and spend your money. Kind of the same thing with my Firebird. Why die with a low-mileage car? (I hope I'm not that close to the end, but I think you get the idea.)
#21
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Re: To Drive Or Not To Drive
This is why I try to buy nice mid tier mile cars.
Enough miles that driving them won't hurt the value
Not enough miles to greatly affect the overall condition.
I prefer some rock chips and some wear. I don't have to be super careful with them and can just enjoy. Then when I am ready to move on it is still marketable.
I believe Low Mile Thirdgens start below 5K miles. Plenty in that category come up for sale if you want an investment grade car to gamble on. Then, it better be unique in some aspect if you really want to odds of long term value to be on your side.
Enough miles that driving them won't hurt the value
Not enough miles to greatly affect the overall condition.
I prefer some rock chips and some wear. I don't have to be super careful with them and can just enjoy. Then when I am ready to move on it is still marketable.
I believe Low Mile Thirdgens start below 5K miles. Plenty in that category come up for sale if you want an investment grade car to gamble on. Then, it better be unique in some aspect if you really want to odds of long term value to be on your side.
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Re: To Drive Or Not To Drive
I would get something else for a beater during the winter in NY. I'm from New England originally and have seen so many nice cars ruined by rust and salt it makes me sick. When I lived up that way anything I cared about would not get driven after the first snowfall and not before all snow melted and we had multiple good hard rains to wash the leftover salt off the roads. A guy I worked with had a motorcycle get all rusted to crap after a few years because he would start riding it as soon as the snow melted and the temps rose.
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Re: To Drive Or Not To Drive
I would get something else for a beater during the winter in NY. I'm from New England originally and have seen so many nice cars ruined by rust and salt it makes me sick. When I lived up that way anything I cared about would not get driven after the first snowfall and not before all snow melted and we had multiple good hard rains to wash the leftover salt off the roads. A guy I worked with had a motorcycle get all rusted to crap after a few years because he would start riding it as soon as the snow melted and the temps rose.
#24
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Re: To Drive Or Not To Drive
I wouldn’t worry about putting too many miles on, especially with almost 90k on there now...
but the car looks like it’s in nice shape...
To keep it in nice shape it should be garaged during inclement weather... When I first got my IROC I hadn’t bought my house yet so my plan was to keep it in the driveway to the house we were renting May-Nov and in the winter I was going to store it at my parents garage 1.5 hours away. Not ideal, but luckily we ended up with a two car garage soon after. I did get the Coverking Autobody armor cover which is a multiple layer, form fitting breathable cover that even claims to prefect the car from dings.. It’s not cheap at somewhere around $400-600 and it’s pretty bulky and heavy to store. It has a soft micro cotton underside so it won’t scratch or damage the finish either. I also wouldn’t park the car on grass. If you keep the car clean and dry it will stay nicer for longer...
I’d get a beater 4cyl Corolla or small truck... something to beat around during the bad weather just to keep the IROC nice... If you have winter, make a deal with someone to store it somewhere. I met a guy at a cruise night that traded a guy winter storage for snow removal in the winter..
I’m all about keeping these cars clean and dry...but drive all you want! They can start getting rust bubbles around the rear fender wells even if they just get daily driven in rain after a bunch of seasons.. If you want to keep your paint nice you can’t throw a cover on a dirty car either...
but the car looks like it’s in nice shape...
To keep it in nice shape it should be garaged during inclement weather... When I first got my IROC I hadn’t bought my house yet so my plan was to keep it in the driveway to the house we were renting May-Nov and in the winter I was going to store it at my parents garage 1.5 hours away. Not ideal, but luckily we ended up with a two car garage soon after. I did get the Coverking Autobody armor cover which is a multiple layer, form fitting breathable cover that even claims to prefect the car from dings.. It’s not cheap at somewhere around $400-600 and it’s pretty bulky and heavy to store. It has a soft micro cotton underside so it won’t scratch or damage the finish either. I also wouldn’t park the car on grass. If you keep the car clean and dry it will stay nicer for longer...
I’d get a beater 4cyl Corolla or small truck... something to beat around during the bad weather just to keep the IROC nice... If you have winter, make a deal with someone to store it somewhere. I met a guy at a cruise night that traded a guy winter storage for snow removal in the winter..
I’m all about keeping these cars clean and dry...but drive all you want! They can start getting rust bubbles around the rear fender wells even if they just get daily driven in rain after a bunch of seasons.. If you want to keep your paint nice you can’t throw a cover on a dirty car either...
#25
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Re: To Drive Or Not To Drive
Get one of these lil fellows like I got to commute to work, drive in nasty weather, wal mart trips,.. etc. Save the Iroc for those beautiful weather days.
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