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LTX and LSXPutting LT1s, LS1s, and their variants into Third Gens is becoming more popular. This board is for those who are doing and have done the swaps so they can discuss all of their technical aspects including repairs, swap info, and performance upgrades.
I'm in a position now where I have:
1) What was once a functioning 5.3/LM7 from my 06 Tahoe. It may or not be resurrected as the there's an issue with the engine management that I can't get a handle on despite using my Tech 2 scan tool. My guess is that the Tahoe, after sitting for over a year in the outdoors is that most of the connections have been corrupted and establishing proper communication with PCM seems impossible.
2) A tired Gen 1 SBC that's in need of fresh shortblock.
So, I'm looking at the cost relative to rebuilding the Gen 1 or swapping in the LS.
I've built up a short parts list based on what I've gleaned from the various posts here at Thirdgen.
I have the Holley swap crossmember already and a carbed application suits me just fine.
The exhaust has to be re-done regardless so I've left that off the list other than headers.
I can ditch the OEM PCM and harness using the Edelbrock package which includes an ignition controller. At least I think that can be done.
The oil pan and engine mounts seem like standard fare.
Not sure about the truck's accessory drive as the high mount alternator could be an issue.
Any comments or suggestions otherwise are invited.
The critical element there I think is the oil pan. I've heard various accounts of what works and what doesn't. Also how it all relates to fitting a windage tray.
Although, I don't know if that pan will work with the Holley engine mounts since those mounts pull the engine forward. You might have to use the Holley "F-body-ish" 302-2 oil pan
I have the 302-1 oil pan and I will be test fitting it with stock k-member but you won't want to wait for me if you're in a hurry.
Good to know. Thanks.
I had read that fitting a full length windage tray in the 302-2 pan is possible.Did you deal with at all?
It is possible, but it involves cutting off a portion of the front of the truck windage tray. I used an F-body oil pan to skip that step. With either the truck or f-body windage tray, a small notch will have to be made to clear the pickup tube.
I've read that somewhere as well. Minor stuff really but good to know. I don't care much for notching the k-member. Not that it's a terrible thing to do or structurally unsound, I'd just rather not.
It seems that keeping with the Hooker/Holley package takes care of a lot of headaches.
I've read that somewhere as well. Minor stuff really but good to know. I don't care much for notching the k-member. Not that it's a terrible thing to do or structurally unsound, I'd just rather not.
It seems that keeping with the Hooker/Holley package takes care of a lot of headaches.
I tried to not notch the k-member as I lack the fabrication skills to do so. The Hooker/Holley setup makes everything fit nicely.
So I picked up an alternator relocation kit from ICT Billet. It requires the use of a truck balancer and supplied water pump spacers. I swapped out a truck pulley to car water pump to eliminate the spacers.
So I picked up an alternator relocation kit from ICT Billet. It requires the use of a truck balancer and supplied water pump spacers. I swapped out a truck pulley to car water pump to eliminate the spacers.
I'm a little confused what you're saying here. The relocation kit is for truck accessories... and you pulled the truck water pump pulley and put it on the car water pump so that you don't need the spacers? Is that correct? you're still using truck spacing?
I'm a little confused what you're saying here. The relocation kit is for truck accessories... and you pulled the truck water pump pulley and put it on the car water pump so that you don't need the spacers? Is that correct? you're still using truck spacing?
The kit requires the use of the truck balancer and roughly 3/4" spacers to enable the use of the car water pump. The car and truck water pumps have different outlets. I personally do not like the idea of extra gaskets. To eliminate the spacers I had to switch out the pulleys, truck pulley to car water pump. When reinstalling the pulley you will need to remove the rear cover on the water pump so you can support the shaft and press on the truck pulley. The down side to this is a water pump failure and needing to swap pulleys in the middle of wherever. Having the spacers, long bolts and four gaskets stored in the car would remedy this.
I just want to clarify a few things with this alternator relocation kit. The spacers are 7/16" thick and with the extra gasket push everything out 1/2". I am using a truck, balancer, alternator, and belt tensioner in addition to a F-body power steering pump. The truck alternator has a different plastic cover on the back and I also trimmed off an extra mounting tab from the belt tensioner. I have not had the engine in the car with this configuration but it does appear that it will all fit.
Do you plan on running Air conditioning -- do you have emission testing in your area for your year car?
As I found making it physically fit is pretty easy and there are solutions for any issue there-- there are little things that add up that you wouldn't find in building a pretty stout SBC.
If running AC you will need to notch the K-member or buy relocation brackets.
In my swap the biggest issues I have ran into has been in the conversion from the 700R4 auto to the T56 manual. If I had gone to a 4L60E it would of been a lot easier.
I used a BMR k-member which clears everything well, but it sits the engine really close to the firewall, its almost touching my wiper motor and I had to relocate the passenger coil pack to clear the AC box.
Reworking the PCM from a 4th gen Fbody and wiring isn't all that hard but using after market solution is probably easiest.
My only advice would be find a swap solution from one company and not mix/match k-members/trans mounts/etc. I don't think I could of done this without a welder though, making little things like throttle cable brackets, the Y-pipe for the exhaust, mounting bracket for my brake prop valve (not needed for the LS1 swap), and other little things. So if you don't have access to one I would advise at least a cheap-o flux core welder and mask it will save you a lot on buying custom brackets.
When (if) I move forward on this the plan is to use the full suite of BlackHeart swap components. All the items in the list in post #1 plus the crossmember that was asked about. I've a well built 700R4 that will require an additional adapter. I'll have to find that and post it here. I understand there's an offset flexplate that also could be used. The carbed application will sidestep few issues and also allow the use of the TV cable while the ignition is taken care of by the MSD unit supplied with the intake. The accessories have been addressed here and I think I can make sense of it. No AC so that's another few hassles avoided.
As for fabrication, that's not a concern. I've an arsenal of tools available when I need them.
I'd heard about that. I had started a thread about the 700R4 to LS combination and got this reply.
Originally Posted by BadHabit
Good for you on being able to pull a known running motor.
The 5.3 usually has the dished bolt hub.
The easiest, cheapest solution is the 551165 ICT billet hub adapter. Lots of them on eBay. This one is good quality.
Still looking for something with an SFI certification and that would mean a flexplate (possibly).
All things Holley/Hooker Blackheart are 20% off through Holley as well. Which is fair chunk of change considering that almost the entire swap can be with Holley parts.
A alternative to the BlackHeart headers are these from Speed Engineering (something most here are probably familiar with). https://www.speed-engineering.com/ls...2-ls3-ls6.html
The only issue here is that I'll put myself in a position where I have build the transition from the collector to the exhaust whether or not I go with the full Hooker dual exhaust.
Save a little. Spend a little.
09-16-2018, 12:04 PM
