LilJayV10

iTrader: (5)

well i finally started driving my car this week. i got the body back together, it's a t/a (clone) now and one color...wohoohooo. basically i have no traction at all, 1st gear is useless and so is half of 2nd. i cant even roll out and give progessively get into it because after you get to half throttle at any speed it breaks the tires loose and you can forget the 1 to 2 shift. the car goes sideways. i know these cars can be setup for street/strip action. i know i dont have like 500hp or anywhere near that so i figure with a plan and some good parts i should be actually going somewhere instead of up in smoke. however i have always wanted a car that can spin tires like this.
the suspension is stock, big sway bars w/ poly ends,Ws6 springs
i know SFCS are a must and that will be the first
lower control arms with RLB are after that

oh and i have 275/50/15's BFG radials on the back.

whats after that? will the SFCs and LCA's make that big of difference? thanks guys.

MdFormula350

i think you need to get lower control arm relocation brackets, some lower control arms, a torque arm, and a panhard.. that should give you alot better traction..

good luck

sllt1776

sounds like a fun car to drive..wish i has that much power. yea i would suggest the same parts for yor car.

AFreaknGoodTme

BFG euro/radial T/A's are like driving on an iceskating rink. I would personally suggest to buy better tires first. If you don't have wheelhop now, better tires will probably change that though.

LilJayV10

iTrader: (5)

i dont have any wheel hop now, the car doesnt even try to hook even gradually getting in the throttle. SFC's will be first then LCA's and relocating brackets next. With the LCA's, are the adjustable ones better? if so do i/should i get an adjustable tourqe arm? thanks.

automec

i have the same problem , no traction ! just installed most everything but where to set pinion angle . does the pinion need to point down or up ?
mike

LilJayV10

iTrader: (5)

automec,
wow and i thought i had traction problems, i just read your sig. wow

82camaro

The relocation brackets will help a bunch. I went from roasting the tires on the 1-2 shift to a chirp with just relocation brackets(both with eagle gcs's). Those tires have poor traction, especially when you get them hot. I had a set and they were pretty bad traction wise. What pressure are you running in them? What size wheels? If you have the stock 7 inch wide wheels, the tires are way to wide for the wheel--causing traction problems. You need at the very least 8 inch wide wheels for that size. Then run about 30psi in them--maybe even as low as 28. 28 psi is where mine would wear even and have 'decent' traction

bob8748

pinion angle... got me thinking, 2*- 4* up/down... man, I forget

LilJayV10

iTrader: (5)

yeah those tires are on the stock 7 inch rim, i know thats helping anything. and they have 32psi in them.

AFreaknGoodTme

A simple way to remember is that when your tires rotate in foward motion, the axle housing counter acts in the reverse direction so the front of the pinion thrusts upward under forward acceleration.

Now if you start with the front of the pinion pointing slightly downward, under thrust it will level out and match the ANGLE OF THE OUTPUT SHAFT on the trans (Don't set pinion angle in relation to the ground!)

How much downward or in otherwords "negitive" pinion required is base solely on each individual cars' properties. Properties like: What type of bushing are used? (Regarding the amount of flex involved), how much torque are we looking at?

More solid the bushing the less negitive pinion needed under drag race conditions.

The more power or torque produced the more negitive pinion angle needed under drag race conditions

You will always get at least +1* of thrust on the drive train in a normal street car so if the pinion angle is set to -1* and the drive train is loaded under normal acceleration thrust, the pinion will then cancel out to 0*

bob8748

angle of the output shaft on the transmission

hmmm... building the rolling chasis now. getting ready to put in rear and weld on ladders, but the engine and tranny are not in the car. no way to tell the angle of the transmission output shaft. expecting 480 +/- lbs of torque at a little over 500 hp.