5 speed

I've done a lot of reading here on this as well as online in other places and haven't found a definitive answer..
If I go with 1" drop springs..is it absolutely necessary to go with LCA relocation brackets, adjustable panhard and torque arm?
I don't track or race my car..it's a weekend cruiser.

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

If you want it to launch, then yes, more or less.

If you don't care, ... of course not.

Your call.

Personally, I have a VERY LOW opinion of a car that "looks" "good" but doesn't perform. It talks the talk but can't walk the walk. Poseur. Big hat no cattle. But that's just me, crusty old anus that I am.

Scott's 83' Z

I used Eibach drop springs and left everything else stock. Their kit dropped my car 1 1/2” in the front and 1” in the rear. All I did was an alignment after to adjust the camber in the front. They have been there about 20 years and I have not had a problem. Your car will ride stiffer as a result of less spring travel.

NoEmissions84TA

iTrader: (1)

Don't they make a creme for that?

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

I'm past that stage. My asteroids are too developed now. Hell, some of em are nearly moons already, circling that planet out there just past Saturn.

427seven

1" will not create problem on a third gen, except as mentioned a stiffer ride if you use a stock rate(stock spring rate over shorter distance equals stiffer). if you are buying a custom spring you should be able to werk with the manufacturer to adjust that rate if you want a softer spring. after installation a proper alignment and you will have no problem. it's been done millions of times.

Abubaca

iTrader: (3)

It's really a grey area, and my personal feelings are often forged through trial and error and experience.

With regard to Sofa, I do agree with his sentiments, generally speaking, but I don't feel that lowering a mostly stock car from the 80's somehow catapults you in poser-ville. If people get over the fake hood louvers, they'll get over the drop too, lol. Favorite hood of all time btw, no hate here...just sayin.

Time to be honest with yourself, as only YOU have to answer to YOU. Is it really just a weekend cruiser? ....I agree with 427 that you'll (likely) be fine with no issues, and that it's been done many many times. Still, the angles and geometry do change. -And while it may never cause an issue, it doesn't change for the better. This forum is crammed FULL of discussions like this. You'll have a drag racer, a mechanic, and weekend warrior, and a young 16 year old kid all discussing whether or not you need to prime the flux capacitor before engaging the warp core. It's rarely black and white. I vote for installing those parts, but I think you'll be fine if you don't.

5 speed

rotflmao..love that...
My car isn't stock..well it is except for the engine..it dynoed at 387 hp at the crank and 422 foot pounds of twisty..I swapped carbs so it may be over 400 now..but I don't race it on the strip or street..
I don't feel like sweeping up t5 parts.
It is the one thing about the car I don't like the look of..the space between the wheel opening and the top of the tire.
tks for the info folks..

plum92_camaro

For what you use the car for you should be fine lowering it the 1". Most likely thing you could need is the adjustable panhard bar to recenter the rear axle.

83 Crossfire TA

iTrader: (2)

Well, since this isn't dead yet... it depends. Mostly on use and tires.

For general just driving around I doubt that 95% of people could tell the difference from one extreme to the other, so if you lowered it to get it to look better and feel a little more sporty then it really won't matter.

From a handling perspective, you get the best qualities with the back pivot very slightly up from the front one. This sets up a more stable situation coming into turns.

From an acceleration set up perpendicular to the ground to the rear pivot somewhat downward is best. The more the rear pivot is down from the front, the more energy from the driveline is used to push the tires into the ground, meaning that the back of the car will rise when you accelerate and push the back tires harder against the ground. This is good from a traction perspective until you overwhelm the tires. With low profile street tires, drag radials or very soft sidewalls you can reach the point where you essentially crush the tires, the rims bounce off the track and you lose traction. Typically the car looks like it's leaving REALLY hard, but then suddenly 10-15' or so out from the start it starts spinning. Sometimes when you get good pics/video you'll actually see a tire with its sidewall completely smashed flat and if you're not running rim screws you'll often have the tire spinning on the rim.

WTR388

I'm a "do it while you're in there" guy... I'll be lowering this spring. I already have the rear end components to fix all the angles (adjustable everything and lca mounts). I'm accounting for bump steer up front and using founders strut mounts so the strut is lifted up a bit which helps keep the stroke where it needs to be.

Nothing wrong with dropping it for the look, but I'd spend the little bit extra to keep it handling... New bushings in everything, maybe even a complete steering linkage replacement. Do it once, get it aligned and then you don't have to worry about it for years.

83 Crossfire TA

iTrader: (2)

And what's correct? The height/angle they were designed at, the height that that most were built at (significantly lower), where they handle best or get the best traction with a specific tire?

.

What do strut mounts have to do with bump steer???

WTR388

For the rear control arms, I'll be set up with the axle end slightly down. I'm starting to mess around with my suspension this year. What's perfect? I don't know, I'm relying on what I've been reading around here for the last few years. I like learning about that type of thing and there are some smart people on this forum.

I didn't intend to make it sound like strut mounts have anything to do with bump steer. But the taller strut mounts help put the strut back in to the position where the stroke would be in normal ride height situations.
I was just saying that if you are going to drop a car, be prepared to do more than just put in some shorter springs. I intend to at least autox my car a bit so I don't want it to just look lower. If I had an open place to go test, and if this car was a serious track car, I'd be messing around with settings all the time just for the knowledge.

NoEmissions84TA

iTrader: (1)

I always wondered why the aftermarket strut mounts were so tall. Thanks.
So does anyone make strut mounts with actual bearings that ARE NOT TALLER? I will not be lowering my car. Actually, I installed stiffer springs for more ground clearance.