valve covers still leaking
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 1,493
Likes: 98
From: CT
Car: 86 Trans Am WS6
Engine: 383 stroker
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 9 Bolt Torsen 3.70
valve covers still leaking
hey guys, i pulled the valve covers after trying to diagnose a ticking sound and now I cant get them to stop leaking oil onto the exhaust manifold. I've tried every type of gasket, with permatex and without permatex, and put brand new edelbrock valve covers on it. I tightened them firmly without over tightening and slowly added a quarter turn and the damn thing still leaks oil and smokes on the exhuast manifold. I know it doesnt get any simpler than valve covers but something else has to be wrong, both mating surfaces were cleaned and smooth and i put the valve covers on with care so I wouldn't bend them. each and every time i see a good amount of smoke and the smell of burning oil. any ideas on what to do would be greatly appreciated
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 5,183
Likes: 42
From: Oakdale, Ca
Car: 89 IrocZ
Engine: L98-ish
Transmission: 700R4
Re: valve covers still leaking
Are these steel covers?
i.e stamped steel, as opposed to cast Al?
i.e stamped steel, as opposed to cast Al?
Last edited by 8Mike9; Sep 10, 2014 at 06:58 PM.
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 27,867
Likes: 2,429
Car: Yes
Engine: Usually
Transmission: Sometimes
Axle/Gears: Behind me somewhere
Re: valve covers still leaking
If they're sheet metal, they're bent, from past over-tightening.
Take em off, remove the gaskets, bend the area around the bolt holes UPWARDS, opposite to the way the bolt holes are sorts punched out DOWNWARDS now.
Use these gaskets. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fel-vs12869r Note carefully, they end in R. R. DO NOT get the regular cork ones, they will dry up and turn to dust and fail just like cork gaskets on engines have been doing since the 1800s. When you put em back on, use these http://www.summitracing.com/search?S...20down%20valve or something like them on the bolts on the exh side. You'll need longer screws on that side. I'd suggest stainless steel Phillips head screws, rather than hex head, to avoid over-tightening in the future. Get em at Lowe's. The ones that go through the load spreaders will need to be ¼" longer than the stock ones.
Lay a bead of gorilla snot on the VC after straightening the flange and then cleaning it with lacquer thinner. Lay a matching bead on the gasket. Wait about 20 - 30 min, then lay the gasket on the cover, making sure the extra holes for the early-model setup are on the intake side. Smear a coat of wheel bearing grease on the exposed gasket surface, where it meets the head. Tighten with nothing more than a #3 (NOT a #2) Phillips screwdriver.
Take em off, remove the gaskets, bend the area around the bolt holes UPWARDS, opposite to the way the bolt holes are sorts punched out DOWNWARDS now.
Use these gaskets. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fel-vs12869r Note carefully, they end in R. R. DO NOT get the regular cork ones, they will dry up and turn to dust and fail just like cork gaskets on engines have been doing since the 1800s. When you put em back on, use these http://www.summitracing.com/search?S...20down%20valve or something like them on the bolts on the exh side. You'll need longer screws on that side. I'd suggest stainless steel Phillips head screws, rather than hex head, to avoid over-tightening in the future. Get em at Lowe's. The ones that go through the load spreaders will need to be ¼" longer than the stock ones.
Lay a bead of gorilla snot on the VC after straightening the flange and then cleaning it with lacquer thinner. Lay a matching bead on the gasket. Wait about 20 - 30 min, then lay the gasket on the cover, making sure the extra holes for the early-model setup are on the intake side. Smear a coat of wheel bearing grease on the exposed gasket surface, where it meets the head. Tighten with nothing more than a #3 (NOT a #2) Phillips screwdriver.
Last edited by sofakingdom; Sep 10, 2014 at 09:04 PM.
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 5,183
Likes: 42
From: Oakdale, Ca
Car: 89 IrocZ
Engine: L98-ish
Transmission: 700R4
Re: valve covers still leaking
Now ya ya know I was gonna tell him similar, but wanted to make sure
One thing extra I'll add, is use the funny looking load spread washers as well...probably come in chrome these days too.
Edit:
N/M...see ya got the spreaders covered for him my man.

One thing extra I'll add, is use the funny looking load spread washers as well...probably come in chrome these days too.
Edit:
N/M...see ya got the spreaders covered for him my man.
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 1,493
Likes: 98
From: CT
Car: 86 Trans Am WS6
Engine: 383 stroker
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 9 Bolt Torsen 3.70
Re: valve covers still leaking
If they're sheet metal, they're bent, from past over-tightening.
Take em off, remove the gaskets, bend the area around the bolt holes UPWARDS, opposite to the way the bolt holes are sorts punched out DOWNWARDS now.
Use these gaskets. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fel-vs12869r Note carefully, they end in R. R. DO NOT get the regular cork ones, they will dry up and turn to dust and fail just like cork gaskets on engines have been doing since the 1800s. When you put em back on, use these http://www.summitracing.com/search?S...20down%20valve or something like them on the bolts on the exh side. You'll need longer screws on that side. I'd suggest stainless steel Phillips head screws, rather than hex head, to avoid over-tightening in the future. Get em at Lowe's. The ones that go through the load spreaders will need to be ¼" longer than the stock ones.
Lay a bead of gorilla snot on the VC after straightening the flange and then cleaning it with lacquer thinner. Lay a matching bead on the gasket. Wait about 20 - 30 min, then lay the gasket on the cover, making sure the extra holes for the early-model setup are on the intake side. Smear a coat of wheel bearing grease on the exposed gasket surface, where it meets the head. Tighten with nothing more than a #3 (NOT a #2) Phillips screwdriver.
Take em off, remove the gaskets, bend the area around the bolt holes UPWARDS, opposite to the way the bolt holes are sorts punched out DOWNWARDS now.
Use these gaskets. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fel-vs12869r Note carefully, they end in R. R. DO NOT get the regular cork ones, they will dry up and turn to dust and fail just like cork gaskets on engines have been doing since the 1800s. When you put em back on, use these http://www.summitracing.com/search?S...20down%20valve or something like them on the bolts on the exh side. You'll need longer screws on that side. I'd suggest stainless steel Phillips head screws, rather than hex head, to avoid over-tightening in the future. Get em at Lowe's. The ones that go through the load spreaders will need to be ¼" longer than the stock ones.
Lay a bead of gorilla snot on the VC after straightening the flange and then cleaning it with lacquer thinner. Lay a matching bead on the gasket. Wait about 20 - 30 min, then lay the gasket on the cover, making sure the extra holes for the early-model setup are on the intake side. Smear a coat of wheel bearing grease on the exposed gasket surface, where it meets the head. Tighten with nothing more than a #3 (NOT a #2) Phillips screwdriver.
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Thread Starter
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 1,493
Likes: 98
From: CT
Car: 86 Trans Am WS6
Engine: 383 stroker
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 9 Bolt Torsen 3.70
Re: valve covers still leaking
I also tried both styles of load spreaders, at first I was using the stock bar ones put on correctly but then I switched to these smaller round ones that I'm not too impressed with
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 1,493
Likes: 98
From: CT
Car: 86 Trans Am WS6
Engine: 383 stroker
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 9 Bolt Torsen 3.70
Re: valve covers still leaking
So i couldn't find gorilla snot anywhere (checked every auto and home improvement store in the area) but I picked up the brush on permatex gasket sealant and the tube kind, I think I'm gonna try the brush on kind first. I picked up the permadry plus gaskets and am impressed with the quality and they came with a set of load spreaders. I also couldn't find any philips screws that would work but I found bolts that are similar, I'm gonna use a palm ratchet and be really cautious when snugging them down. also going to use the 2nd valve cover that hasn't been used yet in case I did damage the other one. I also got lacquer thinner and wheel bearing grease and am feeling pretty confident. do you think ill be fine with using the brush on sealant as a substitute for gorilla snot?
Supreme Member
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 2,036
Likes: 5
From: knoxville tn
Car: 86 IROC
Engine: 5.0 TPI
Transmission: 700-R-4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 open
Re: valve covers still leaking
So i couldn't find gorilla snot anywhere (checked every auto and home improvement store in the area) but I picked up the brush on permatex gasket sealant and the tube kind, I think I'm gonna try the brush on kind first. I picked up the permadry plus gaskets and am impressed with the quality and they came with a set of load spreaders. I also couldn't find any philips screws that would work but I found bolts that are similar, I'm gonna use a palm ratchet and be really cautious when snugging them down. also going to use the 2nd valve cover that hasn't been used yet in case I did damage the other one. I also got lacquer thinner and wheel bearing grease and am feeling pretty confident. do you think ill be fine with using the brush on sealant as a substitute for gorilla snot?
Re: valve covers still leaking
You don't have to tighten these down much. I always use a torque wrench when tightening these because I had a problem with them leaking too. Torque specs is 22 in. lbs. I believe. It's not even tight but it's what keeps them from leaking.
Re: valve covers still leaking
Did you go to the local zoo and ask the guy in charge of the primate area?
He didn't mean a name brand. It's just Sofa's way of saying gasket sealant. Permatex is fine, I prefer black. I bet the guys at the parts stores looked at you like you had a pecker growing out of your forehead when you asked them.
He didn't mean a name brand. It's just Sofa's way of saying gasket sealant. Permatex is fine, I prefer black. I bet the guys at the parts stores looked at you like you had a pecker growing out of your forehead when you asked them.
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 3,938
Likes: 99
From: Huntsville AL
Car: 88GTA
Engine: 5.7TPI
Transmission: Auto
Axle/Gears: 3.27
Re: valve covers still leaking
Did you go to the local zoo and ask the guy in charge of the primate area?
He didn't mean a name brand. It's just Sofa's way of saying gasket sealant. Permatex is fine, I prefer black. I bet the guys at the parts stores looked at you like you had a pecker growing out of your forehead when you asked them.
He didn't mean a name brand. It's just Sofa's way of saying gasket sealant. Permatex is fine, I prefer black. I bet the guys at the parts stores looked at you like you had a pecker growing out of your forehead when you asked them.

Thanks for the mid day humor! Thread Starter
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 1,493
Likes: 98
From: CT
Car: 86 Trans Am WS6
Engine: 383 stroker
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 9 Bolt Torsen 3.70
Re: valve covers still leaking
Did you go to the local zoo and ask the guy in charge of the primate area?
He didn't mean a name brand. It's just Sofa's way of saying gasket sealant. Permatex is fine, I prefer black. I bet the guys at the parts stores looked at you like you had a pecker growing out of your forehead when you asked them.
He didn't mean a name brand. It's just Sofa's way of saying gasket sealant. Permatex is fine, I prefer black. I bet the guys at the parts stores looked at you like you had a pecker growing out of your forehead when you asked them.

Thread Starter
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 1,493
Likes: 98
From: CT
Car: 86 Trans Am WS6
Engine: 383 stroker
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 9 Bolt Torsen 3.70
Re: valve covers still leaking
I originally had the stud and bolt kit but dropped one and couldn't find it,
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 1,493
Likes: 98
From: CT
Car: 86 Trans Am WS6
Engine: 383 stroker
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 9 Bolt Torsen 3.70
Re: valve covers still leaking
Awesome thanks, I was gonna ask what inch pounds sounds right for the bolts
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 1,493
Likes: 98
From: CT
Car: 86 Trans Am WS6
Engine: 383 stroker
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 9 Bolt Torsen 3.70
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 27,867
Likes: 2,429
Car: Yes
Engine: Usually
Transmission: Sometimes
Axle/Gears: Behind me somewhere
Re: valve covers still leaking

Actually, gorilla snot is a highly specific thing:

3M 08001. Just get some and start using it, you'll INSTANTLY know how it got that nickname.
If you want black gorilla snot instead (that's, black snot, not, snot from black gorillas... is there any other color? iunno.....) you can get 08008 instead of 08001.
The part about un-bending the valve covers is CRITICAL; by far, the most important thing about doing this. You can ignore EVERY OTHER DETAIL in my post, but if you don't do that one, you're doomed; you'll be right back where you are now again in a very short time.
The 2nd most important thing is using the LONG load spreaders, not the little triangle washers, which don't really accomplish much. The 3rd most important thing is NOT overtightening them ever again.
Last edited by sofakingdom; Sep 12, 2014 at 06:15 PM.
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 1,493
Likes: 98
From: CT
Car: 86 Trans Am WS6
Engine: 383 stroker
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 9 Bolt Torsen 3.70
Re: valve covers still leaking

Actually, gorilla snot is a highly specific thing:

3M 08001. Just get some and start using it, you'll INSTANTLY know how it got that nickname.
If you want black gorilla snot instead (that's, black snot, not, snot from black gorillas... is there any other color? iunno.....) you can get 08008 instead of 08001.
The part about un-bending the valve covers is CRITICAL; by far, the most important thing about doing this. You can ignore EVERY OTHER DETAIL in my post, but if you don't do that one, you're doomed; you'll be right back where you are now again in a very short time.
The 2nd most important thing is using the LONG load spreaders, not the little triangle washers, which don't really accomplish much. The 3rd most important thing is NOT overtightening them ever again.
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