Ill never win..

Probably remember my Code '33' thats
been following me around. Well, I got it
to disapear, stays gone.. most of the time!
It'll show up and bite me in the **** sometimes.

However, it's not the same car.. It still
runs as though Im in limp home mode.. not
any better than when I had the SES lit up..

The car still runs horrid rich and refuses to
stay at a consistant Idle.. Im getting a good
MAF signal and TPS, replaced IAC not too
long ago.. CTS also. NO CODES even when
at operating temp.

It cant be in limp home mode, or else my
SES would be on.. wouldnt it?

But, why no code? Ive checked for vacuum
leaks.. the only thing I haven't checked is the
EGR valve.. Possible solution?

My Navy buddy is commin back from his tour
in the Arabian Gulf in one week and Im bout to
pull the TPI off and throw a carb on it just so
we can cruise it..

Ive had such great results after I did the
rebuild, Id hate to throw in the towel now..

Unplugging the burnoff relay has no effect,
swapping relays around does not change
the condition.. all grounds are intact.

Anybody give me a place to start! ...again!

 

im not sure if youve already checked this or not (sorry, missed your first post) but i hade a code 33 problem on my 85 iroc for about a month and it drove me crazy. the problem ended up being when i put my new maf sensor on it wasnt attatched correctly at the base of the air cleaner lid and there was a small leak there, and apparently any small leak in the maf system causes the computer to go nuts. it ran like crap and would surge when not under load (cycling between about 900 rpm to 1500 rpm over and over). i took out the factory o ring that they have (i have no bloody clue how they crammed it in there since the o ring is bigger than the hole it goes into) clamped it and used alot of tape (electrical is good because it can withstand heat and is black so you can hardly see it). sealed the leak, thing runs like it used to now. might wanna check the electrical connector on the maf and make sure all 5 pins go into the holes right.

the reason my maf went bad in the first place? bought a bbk throttle and god only knows how, that thing blew my old maf. cannot reccomend a bbk throttle.

 

Thanks for the reply, I got the plenum tore
off right now.

Im getting at the EGR valve, replacing it..
It's alil harder than I thought with the fuel
rail and runners still bolted in.

But, I got her out =)

I have no leaks on the runner flanges, or any vaccum fittings. Im completely puzzled.. If it's electrical, I havent found it..

Mechanically Ive replaced/and or checked everything else!

Im about to take it to a shop.. And that's
sad considering I resurrected this car from
the dead a few years back...

Why pay someone, when I have the
ability to do it myself!?

I ask myself this at least a dozen
times daily.. Im at wit's end here!

Anyone got a match?

 

good luck with the egr valve. i replaced the one on my 85 vette about a year back and it took a good afternoon. i left the fuel runners and all that on too, so i ended up bending a wrench just to get it to fit on the bolt on the passenger side. maybe youll have better luck. one tip i have for you, if its not too late, is to replace the switch or relay or whatever its called that threads into the base of the egr valve. i ended up breaking the switch when i took it out and didnt know it and had to replace it later which meant i had to take the plenum off all over again. with a bad switch i didnt recieve any more egr engine codes, but it idled at around 550 rpm. put a new switch on and it idled at a steady 750 rpm. just a heads up for ya.

 

could try a new ecm

 

I probably will be forced too..

But, that's after I confirm & re-confirm proper MAF and
TPS voltages, and double check grounds..

After clearing the ECM, the car will run normal or a few
seconds.. then, the Idle will jump around.. horribly rich
when it does.

When under load, the car jerks back & forth..
In neutral, the car will rev all the way up the tach
without any hesitation..Spitting out unburnt fuel
as it does this.

Ill give it 3 more days before I rip the manifold
off and throw a carb on it... I dont have the luxury
anymore to fiddle with this any longer.

Thanks for any contributions!

 

I just picked up a 91 TA conv. and it was running the same way, it had 2 faults, the egr valve would stick open, and the tps would fluctuate, it would be at .68v and idle properly then the tps voltage would jump around up to 2.5v or so and it would surge and run really rich and sometimes stall.hope this helps.

 

Well, I cant win either way..

With the MAF sensor plugged in it runs like garbage..
with it NOT plugged in it still runs like garbage!

I picked up a new TPS, and no change whatsoever.
I cleaned the IAC, and pulled the EGR valve off, It
wasn't stuck open, looks like it's in great condition.

Changed ignition module, spark plugs & plug wires
with no change at all.. none!

It's electrical I know it! Faulty reading.. something!

Maybe Im going 'bout this the wrong way, 'cause
if I was going in the right direction.. I woulda fixed it
or know what's happening by now.

Where are all the grounds located for the MAF/burnoff
circuit? So I can check and recheck them.. I have an
idea of what I fixed before.. but, not positive.

Im putting it back together right now

 

I would recommend trying a different (known working) ECM/memcal with a custom PROM that has the EGR/A.I.R. stuff removed from the .bin and the MAF Grams per second threshold slightly modified.

I could send you an ECM all setup with the right stuff.

PM me.