Couple questions.

I want to get the "do it yourself" kit for $1090. I've had a couple manuals completely torn down and put back together with a good diagram, so I know i'm up to the task.

They say I need a WC T5... I can get myself a T5 out of a 91 V6 camaro for free. I know I would still need the V8 bellhousing, but is the rest of the transmission the same? The kit replaces the input shaft, all the gears, etc.

I sent them an email about this several days ago and haven't heard back...i guess customer support isn't too great.

Also, what sort of clutch is everyone running? I need it to hold about 500-600 rear wheel hp.

Thanks for any input.

 

Yes, I have one but I didn't build it....they did. According to the numbers that were on my case, it came from a V6 car. So yes, I think it works just fine. But it would'nt hurt to ask "Bubba" (not kidding, that's his name), that works there, and ask him.

I learned real fast that they never call back, but they'll answer your email. It'll take em about 4 days - but they'll answer it!! lol

But they're pretty good on the phone, and will give you all the info you want. You should be able to find plenty of aftermarket clutches to handle the HP, like a Spec stage 2, or a Centerforce DF.

 

so one of these "cheaper" centerforce dual friction setups will cope with that much power?

I've been looking at McLeod twin disk...or something similiar to that that costs 900 dollars

 

cf cant handle a mild 305, same goes for the basic ram one

 

well then what do you suggest?

I wasn't talking about the stock replacement centerforce but the dual friction setup.

 

Just try a search on clutches....they've been beaten to death like everything else around here....

If you have a proven 500-600 HP at the rear wheels,then you're almost out of the scope of an upgraded T-5 anyway.

I just have a lowly 390 hp and 490 torque at the fly, so I think a Centerforce DF clutch, or a spec stage 2, or a Zoom would fit the bill for me.

Not sure about yours, but I think G Force would most likely give you a better answer on that than I can!

 

yeah i did ask about it in the email, but haven't gotten anything back yet.

I'm finishing off a twin turbo setup this christmas vacation.

 

I agree with confused1 what are you gonna do putting 500 horsepower in front of a 5speed even if the clutch can handle it you shift to hard just once and you prolly be picking up whats left of it out of the road. Some people have had good luck but......

 

G-force "rates" them at 600HP...but i know of atleast a dozen guys that are over 700hp running them...the most is around 800 at the wheels...these trannies are very tough...these guys drive them VERY hard to...like 7,500rpm revlimit nitrous slick clutch dump launches....of course the powershifts to go with them...G-force has to rate them conservativly at 600 hp due to heavier cars...were as say a 2,800 pound mustang can put a lot more power through them...that 800 RWHP car weighs 3,200 pounds

 

I help developed the Centerforce DF clutch with Mike Hays back in the late 80's. I was sponsored by them.

I have one in a 540RWHP '68 Vette that I have raced for years and it works perfectly. (Edit: I will also add that I run a 40lb flywheel for enertia also and never burn this clutch.)

Anyone having problems with one need learn how to properly set it up and also learn to drive properly. Its not the clutch, its human error.

 

happen to know what clutch they're using?

that makes me feel really good about the G force kit.,

 

Could you elaborate a bit more? I'd obviously like a cheaper clutch (the dual friction) if i can get away with it.

 

I'm well aware of what the G Force T-5 kit is rated at since I own one. If you want to run a 600 HP motor though a trans rated at 600 - your buisiness and your $$. Go for it.

As I said, you are close to what G Force rates them at, not what others choose to rate it at or put it behind. This board never ceases to amaze me.

Kinda funny to think when I bought my G Force trans, I probably got only like the second or third kit they ever built, and this was a good 2 years before they showed up in a Car Craft article.

Before that nearly EVERYONE said it was a waste of money and the casing would stretch, and gears would strip...etc...

I can tell you if I owned a car that can make 600 hp, I wouldn't be hunting for the cheapest anything when it comes to the driveline, but that's me.

 

I'm not looking for the cheapest anything.

WHy should i spend my money where i don't have to.

 

i guess you didnt read or fully understand what i typed....G-force rates them at 600HP BECAUSE ALOT OF GUYS USE THEM IN HEAVIER CARS like 4,000 pound muscle cars...so naturally a car that weighs 3,200 pounds can put a lot more power through them,...and a 2,800 pound mustang can put even more through them...and a 2,800 pound mustang with 4.10's can put more through it then the same car with 3.55 gears...see were in going with this?...
so you have one good for you...im on a first name basis with a guy that has built OVER 200 of these..and has atleast 25 sitting on shelves at any given time...there ratings are conservative DUE TO GUYS WITH HEAVY CARS RUNNING THEM....nothing to due with a specific HP were parts start to fly apart....like i said my FRIEND not some guy i know of has over 850 crank HP running this tranny...has been for the better part of 5 years..no part failure nor any issues....and its not possible for him to drive it ANY harder....maybe i should get the pic of his broken shifter shaft...he drives it that hard...im making 425 HP and almost 450 ft pounds on my stock WC...and beleive me i dont spare it any abuse...im 150 ft pounds over the "rating"....look up Tim Burgess...his 305 was making 400+ft pounds and hed launch @ 6k off the revlimiter with nitrous on SLICKS not DR's...it lasted 150,000 miles before the synchros went the tranny DID NOT break....so if you want to go by "ratings'' then go for it...people with more experiance use that as a "guideline" like vehicle weight gear ratios and so on...take the T-56 for example...its "rated" at 450 ft pounds in a 4th gen...i personally know guys that are running 9's at 140+MPH..all on the STOCK tranny...im not some dude that just flaps his jaws...i know WTF im talking about..especially about a tranny that 12+ of my friends are running...and exceeding there conservative "rating"


most of my friends are running spec stage 3's and the 850HP guy is running a stage 4 with the ceramic pucks and solid hub....one was running the DF centerforce but after 40,000 miles or so its starting to slip a little, probly due the pressure plate getting weaker...

 

the spec stage 3 seems pretty appealing for the cash.

Any other info on it? And why is teh stage 4 "for race only"

more pedal pressure?

 

 

I was pleased with my CF Dual Friction in my modded 305TPI car.
Only thing I didn't like about it was how soft the clutch was. I was so used to driving with my worn out heavy clutch that it was a little hard to get used to a soft clutch.

 

agreed .....i wasnt referring to Bubba (that makes me laugh every time hahaha) but my tranny guy in SE michigan....hes built quite a few of them and has 25 on the shelf at any time becasue they sell like hotcakes as he said...they were 15 ford and 10 GM ones...

 

well, let me put it this way...the centerforce DF has a 3,200# pressure plate were as a stock pressure plate is 1,600#'s...the stage 3 is 4,000 pounds...and its a kevlar disc material along with a sprung hub (like stock)..the stage 4 has a ceramic disc which will chatter like noones buisness under normal driving...its intended for hi rpm hard clutch dumps...were as a "slip" under everyday driving doesnt get the disc hot enough to really grip, so it will chatter EXCESSIVLY and actually wear FASTER driving on the street...the hub is also solid meaing the is no give in the disc...the pressure plate is 4,400 pounds...even though the clutch system is hydraulic, the pedal effort is dramtically increased...

 

Im running a stage 3 and love it, I should have gone with a 4. The difference between the two is the stage 4 doesn't have the hub springs, its just a disc. The stage 3 has been known to break near the hub springs. Both very streetable.

 

Your explanation for the 3 vs 4 debate is very differnet from the one posted above. I better do a bit of research on that myself.

Can anyone else add to this?

 

He's talking about the one for his t-56 I believe, I'am not to sure the SPEC t-5 clutch is the same though. Either way I would be careful in buying a clutch from SPEC, at least for us t-56 guys.

 

Yes, it is the same as far as the sprung/unsprung hub goes. And why would you be careful buying one of their clutches? Don't say something like that without explaining yourself.

 

actually the stage 4 is more prone to breaking when driving on the street due to the chatter....thats why its for race only...it chatters becasue the disc is made out of ceramic which NEEDS ALOT of heat to work properly..thats why its for RACE ONLY..

the stage 3 will break near the hub springs like posted but only when the stage 4 is needed...like guys that are pushing excessive power through the 3 when the 4 is needed...and they try to drive a 800 HP RACE car on the street...its human error not the clutches fault

as i said in my paragraph above ive been around these parts long enough to know what they can handle, what theyll do and how hard they can be abused....


Pasky,..youd regret going with the stage 4 for a street drivin car trust me...that 3 is more then enough..even with that 306

 

Weird, I recall being able to order the stage four in carbon material. I may be wrong. I've heard people going from the 3 to 4 and noticing no difference as far chatter.

 

Sounds like i'm going with a WC V6 T5 built with the G force kit and a stage 3 SPEC clutch.


still need pedals and hydraulics...anyone ?

 

I got some pedals off a fourthgen 95 trans am, I need to get rid of them, PM if your interested.

 

you have a PM

 

Shot one back at ya, forgot to mention yes they will work with a t5.

 

If you look up SPEC t-56 clutches on the camaroz28.com you'll see a lot of guys having problems with them, I'am talking a lot of guys here including myself. I tried two stage 2 clutches without the blower and both were junk, the first one didn't even work right of the bat of cource this is for the t-56, I'am not to sure how the t-5 ones hold up.

Here's one good post on camaroZ28.com talking about SPEC t-56 clutches http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...ht=street+twin

 

I was unaware they were having problems with them. Thanks for the link.

 

Tnhey have since fixed the problem when they switched over to their star fish design.

As far as the stage 3 goes...No problems with mine, going on 3k miles.

I think the guys on those boards don't know how to install a clutch. I know when there really is a problem SPEC will take care of you.

 

what do you expect there 4th gen guys that know everything hahahaha

 

Unfortunately they still have problems, one is the springs in the hub tend to blowup, something to do with them installing weak 4-cyl springs.


And about the part on "guys on those boards don't know how to install a clutch" if I remember correctly didn't you have a grinding problem every time you pushed the peddle all the way to the floor If you haven't gotten that fixed yet send me a PM, it's just the clutch fork grinding on the pressure plate.

 

Yep sure did, I fixed that, it was actually my hydraulics getting in the way, I goofed, but I freely admit it .