Ok guys, today was rough. Decided to do a starter replacement. Easy. Second time done, should do it quick. Take the old one back, get another one, pop it in.

Car doesn't start.

I connected it exactly how the old one was, which was exactly how the one before that one was.

It seems like it might be connected wrong, but it has always been like that. Anyway, I have one wire going to the terminal with the R on it, and two wires going to the big terminal (one is the wire from the battery, the other is two wires hooked together witha round female connector on it, just like the other). I have no wires on the S terminal. Does this sound incredibly wrong?

And the other problem. Theres a place above the starter, on the wheel well, near the pass. side strut tower, where a radiator hose goes. It passes through a metal section then back into a rubber hose and somewhere near, or maybe into, the firewall. The metal section is welded to the body of the car. Anyway, it had rusted, and i accidentaly gave it a good pop with the wrench and busted a nice hole in it. Coolant sprayed out for a while and eventually stopped.

I cant drive it cuz the starter problem any way , but how should I fix this? Get a professional welder to do it? Get some JB Weld?

Thanks in advance for the help
Jason

 

I think you got the small wires on the wrong small terminal, the GM manual here says "s" for the small wires, nothing on "R". This may sound dumb but did you reconnect the battery when you finished, sometimes we all forget.

That pipe the you made a hole in is NOT welded to the car, there is a bolt mid way on it that holds it to the frame. I think it's a 12mm or 10mm.

It's a fun job taking that all apart, get new heater hoses, clamps and flush the coolent system too while your at it and a new pipe from the junk yard or GM.

 

"s" is the start side of the solenoid ,where the small wires should go . These energize the solenoid.
"r" is the run side of the solenoid , this post is meant for acessories though it is rarely used.

 

Alright guys, thanks alot. I'll go switch those wires and see what happens.

 

ok, I moved that wire from the R to the S and still nothing. Could I have damaged the starter? I'm gonna go make sure I tightened it all up enough just in case.

Could the other wires on the big terminal have anything to do with this?

 

Check battery power by headlights or blowing horn.
The starter wires should fall back into place, not be forced or retwisted any other shape.
You also have not tightened the battery post terminals that well either.
You can also test battery with jumper cable & car battery.
Yep, exactly as you think.
KEEP FOOT ON THE STARTER AS YOU DO THIS TEST!
Yea, it jumps

Water heater problems.
Lots of cleaning up & rehosing.
Go to GM for a printout of the heater core section to identify what ya need.
BUY NEW PARTS, TOO.
Why install old corroded parts again?
To expect them to leak in the future as you are driving down the highway and you become stranded as you blew your engine due to no/low water in engine????
Solve the starter then investigate the hose problems.
I wouldn't drive it, probably won't get to far with the water leaking.....

 

The battery is good. Has been tested. Headlights, stereo, everything works fine. Anyone have any other ideas?

As far as the hose problem, the only thing I was concerned about was that the metal peice looked to be welded on. Its not, I found the bolt, and I am gonna replace all that stuff. Might get it done by monday.

 

You can also test battery with jumper cable & car battery.
Yep, exactly as you think.
KEEP FOOT ON THE STARTER AS YOU DO THIS TEST!
Yea, it jumps

 

I've already got that damn starter bolted in place, and its a **** to get out. Could I do your test with it still in there?

 

You could always hook up a remote starter for a test.
THAT I WOULD RECOMMEND.
Beside that, the answer to your original question.......
Think about it.

 

When you turn the key to the on position DO YOU hear the starter relay click in, it's in the kick panel by the drivers door. Get a meter out, SEE IF THE starter is getting juice, thats how you test a starter in place. If you have too take the panel off and get the relay out and test it. No you didn't hurt the starter and I don't think it's the problem. Check fuses too for starting system.

 

When testing with a meter or test light have somebody hold the key to the start position and see if the solinoid is getting juice.

 

Does your car have VATS?

 

I was surprised as hell. It was the battery after all. The ****er was almost brand new. NOw I just gotta find the pipe. Local yard didnt have one, gotta check some more.

 

New batteries just don't dischagre.
You've got some checking to do.
One part of the problems solved.
GOOD!

 

I am thinking its the alternator. Thank *** for lifetime warranties.

THis would explain the starter making no sound at all. The battery was dead b/c the alternator wasn't charging. I thought it was just becuase the starter was hot, but it was because I was running the juice out of the battery. Then it would slowly charge itself up until I could crank it 20min to an hour later.

Can't wait for the headers!

 

does anyone know what the name of that pipe is?

 

It's a heater hose pipe. Ryan's right, it's just bolted to the frame. Cut the old hoses that lead to it, take it off, take off it's buddy (which should be attached to it), and throw them far away. I threw mine in my old neighbor's yard, they were jerks. I then ran heater HOSE all the way through, from the water pump to the firewall. It makes for a cleaner install, and if you guys ever bust a rear heater hose, you'll appreciate never having to screw with the little question-mark-shaped hose in the middle of January and then catch a cold for two weeks. (It's a bitch.)

I think GM put them there for one of two reasons; one, could be "tightness" in the engine compartment. A long hose might interfere with things, and could hit an exhaust manifold or air pump or etc. Two, they could charge $20 per shaped-hose and $60/hour labor to replace one if it burst. My way, costs $10, $5 each for one 6 foot pack of 5/8" hose and $5 for one 6 foot pack of 3/4" hose. If you buy them by the foot, it'll be cheaper.

Tie the hose up out of the way with a wire tie. My first hoses sagged, and one rested on the exhaust manifold. The manifold burnt a pin-hole in a hose, and suddenly, I had a coolant leak. Couldn't figure out where, because no coolant dropped on the ground. One day, I drove home, and popped the hood just to stare at my motor. I noticed steam coming from the passenger side- turned out, when the coolant was hot and under pressure, that pinhole sprayed coolant onto the exhaust- the coolant evaporated, and never left a drop on the concrete. As soon as the coolant cooled, the leak would stop.

I also covered the hoses with the fake stainless-steel "wrap", looks nice. I'll see if I can get a pic up to show you the hose routing. 87-up 2.8/3.1's will have a heater diverter valve in the way, near the front of the motor, off the heater hose "feed" line. This valve prevents the flow of hot coolant into the heater core if the heater switch is "off". I think it might have allowed the air conditioner to be cooler, since the firewall wouldn't get hot. These valves are made of a cheap fiberglass-ish plastic material (I forget the name), and crack easy, and leak, and cost $20. So screw the damn thing; cut it out of the system, plug up the vac line, and get rid of all the looping hoses. Run one hose from the intake manifold line to the heater core (I think that's the 3/4" line), and one hose from the heater core to the water pump (I think that's the 5/8" line, but I might've gotten them backwards).

 

Well, unfortunately before I read your post, I called my local GM parts dealer and ordered it for $32. Oh well. Should be an easy install.

 

Thats ok just use the pipe, it will make for a clean more stock install and it's just as easy. Harder finding all the connecting pre-formed hoses for the ends then putting it in. LOL