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If the engine wants more fuel and you don't want the ECM to trim it back out with lower BLM's, then you have to increase the O2 voltage swing points. I have my swing point into the ~750mV range at high map in order to get WB reported AFR's the engine is happy with at non-PE heavy throttle conditions, and yet still have the BLM's hovering around 128.
What's the names of the tables you are adjusting? Are you using EBL P4?
I have a question on PE enable thresholds-there is MAP and TPS percentage. Do both thresholds have to be met to go into PE? Or is it either threshold? Thanks!
Right now I have the CCP disabled via the CTS maxed out, just for tuning the VEs along with air and egr. Once the VEs are done I will reactivate all of it. In looking at the MAP thresholds for CCP the min and max are both 20. Wouldn't that essentially disable CCP also? What should it be to be functional?
OK, I just want to review/clarify a couple things that I'm having a hard time with.
VE learns with narrow band-I set the "PE-TPS enable threshold" high so as to get more coverage at higher MAPs since it doesn't learn VE in PE. Targeting 128 BLM or stioch.
With VE learns with wideband-it learns even in PE.
However-what does it target? If I put the "PE-TPS enable thresholds" back to stock settings for wideband VE learns-what is it targeting? Stioch? But if it's in PE mode it's running enriched, so is the VE learn targeted is actually richer than stioch then? Or?
Also another question. As I understand it boost pulse width multiplier % is the best table to use for adjusting AFR under boost-my goal is to remain in the 11s. However in PE, before boost, what is the best table to adjust AFR in PE only? I see PE commanded AFR? And then adjust accordingly to get the wide band readout you want? (looking for 12s in PE only)
When doing a WB learn in open loop, the WUD compares hte commanded AFR (cAFR) to the WB reported AFR and adjusts the VE from that.
Same as when in PE mode and pre-boost. Adjust the VE to obtain the same as the cAFR. If the engine doesn't like the cAFR, then change the PE vs AFR table.
And you shouldn't be targeting the WB reported AFR that you want. You need to target the AFR and SA that the engine likes.
Joined the group as I have seen that Rbob is the go to guy for EBL. I'm new to this world and have so many questions. Is there a way communicate directly with you? I started reading the threads but it would take a long time to get through them all and I am supposed to be working LOL. Not sure if you do this as a business or hobby but either way but I could def use some help.
Joined the group as I have seen that Rbob is the go to guy for EBL. I'm new to this world and have so many questions. Is there a way communicate directly with you? I started reading the threads but it would take a long time to get through them all and I am supposed to be working LOL. Not sure if you do this as a business or hobby but either way but I could def use some help.
Ok I see your handle scottsqcc and I just have to ask have you ever been a member of the StarQuest Club? Remember back in the day there was a Scotty 🤣 well anyway whether it's you or not brother I'm in the same boat. I purchased the system by recommendations of a group member the base tune that was in the unit when I got it works pretty good but other than that the guy who was supposed to help me bailed and I never heard from him again. Thanks streetlethal much thanks. You seem like an extremely intelligent and knowledgeable guy not so much help when standing behind your word.
Anyway is there a tuning with ebl for dummies on here somewhere where a member such as myself can ask extremely stupid questions and get 5-year-old answers that I can actually comprehend and do something with other than go read the website? I've been through college I've had many classes and I've read many books in every single one of them I've had questions where I needed somebody to sit down and explain. I'm not really sure why that doesn't happen here considering this is like a college course learning how to use this.
I have another member who started to help me and hopefully he follows through but there really needs to be a tuning for dummies on here somewhere not just information scattered over hundreds of posts that I have to sift through and try and decipher going off of somebody else's problems. Considering all the potential that comes with this ebl flash program I would surely think there would be a step by step tutorial with pictures that you absolutely can't botch up on here by now.
You should ask ur questions. There are plenty of people that use some version of EBL that likely can answer. However, u should familiarize urself w how it works and the basics of tuning.
You should ask ur questions. There are plenty of people that use some version of EBL that likely can answer. However, u should familiarize urself w how it works and the basics of tuning.
Thank you for the reply Dominic, I tried explaining to another member I'm an older person who is not really techy or computer literate. Most of the people I talk to act like I work in computer science which I don't. If you have two things that have to interact with each other and you don't understand either one of them how do you familiarize yourself with that? I'm not trying to put anybody down but all the instructions on how to use this are written by an engineer not a teacher and the fact that I don't even understand what a lot of the terms mean doesn't help. I'm not blaming anybody for my lack of understanding I'm just looking for somebody hopefully in the Wilkes-Barre / Scranton area who would be willing to lend a hand. If anyone is interested in helping that will be awesome otherwise thanks for your advice.
I don't believe I was ever in the starquest club. Doesn't ring a bell i have been in many forums over the years for different vehicles. This current project is an 87 Camaro Iroc 5.7 Auto My son (17) bought it with a smoked motor. We rebuilt the motor a .030" over flat top piston stock bottom end block with a hydraulic roller cam with .525" lift and 218/225 duration on a 110LSA, AFR 195 heads, Comp 1.6 RRs, 24lb injectors, ported base and plenum with Edelbrock runners, BBK 52mm Throttle body, long tubes and an EBL-P4. I got a pretty close tune (BIN) from a guy on a tuning group on FB. Got the car running and into VE. Had a lifter noise so I need to adjust the rockers had all kinds of problems linking it up but finally got it. I just need to know the basics of what should be set for the best results from the VE. What are things I need to look at and make sure are set correctly? This tuning stuff has my head spinning and keeping me up at night I do not want to mess the build up. I am currently running a NB O2 sensor that I did upgrade to heated due to the long tubes, I do plan on upgrading to the WB soon. I've deleted the EGR and cat I believe the egr is turned off on the ECM even though I don't recall a setting for it. Another thing I will have to figure out is the fans previous owners had it set up to turn on with the key so I'm not sure if they bypassed the relays, I would have to look into it more. Son just wants to drive it before snow flies.
So after reading some of the other threads, I realized that after you run a VE Learn you have to flash that saved BIN? I didn't pick up on that I knew they would save sequentially. Boy I have some learning to do. Is this the purpose of the flashbanks? rather than overwrite just use different banks in case I have to go back to one?
Everything had been working great...VE learns open loop for hours. Then went to VE learn closed loop.
Now when I first plug into the USB to the EBL it reads it-then the WUD will freeze and it will still say port open on the WUD. I try re-plugging it in and it says port closed and windows gives a pop up message that the device has malfunctioned/not recognized. I reloaded the FTDI drivers and still the same-briefly works, then back to the above. I tried it on my Dell with win11 that I have been using and also an old Dell Inspiron mini with win7 that I used in the past with the EBL.
Help! What am I missing?
I've been digging for info and reading- I set the latency timer on the com port down to 10. I'll see what that does, but if anyone has any other ideas please let me know! Thank you!
Update-when I first connect after the car has sat overnight it works fine. After driving it for a while it's back to windows popping up that the device has malfunctioned and not recognized and the comm port shows closed on the WUD. (on both laptops) I double checked the plug from the USB to wire and it's tight. So at this point I'm leaning to saying the USB adapter is faulty and not the EBL board since the EBL still works fine in running the car. Thoughts?
Update-new cable in-so far so good. I just never thought of the possibility of the USB cable malfunctioning-didn't think there was much in it to malfunction.
First off, just wanted to say I am impressed with the EBL Flash II. I am running it on my fairly stock 85 Corvette and from the first start the car already ran better than it did before the swap. So far the only work done to the car has been long tube headers, an x pipe exhaust and swapping the 700R4 and 3.07s for a ZF 6 speed and 3.54s. I am running stock 24lb/hr injectors. I chose the 3006 BIN as my base tune despite having iron heads, but did use the 3005 SA tables. I've done about 30 VE learns, mostly with an Innovate LC-2 wideband but I recently switched back to BLM learns with a heated narrowband sensor. I also recently re-enabled PE hoping to combat some KR and CCP as my gas tank was starting to build a ton of pressure. I am fairly happy with my tune overall, and have no major drivability issues. I'll get an occasional idle surge pushing the clutch in when I come to a stop and I also get a decent idle stumble once the cooling fan kicks on a 212.
My primary concern is the knock counts. I have tried a ton of different things to get rid of it, from pulling significant timing out of the 3005 SA tables where I am seeing consistent knock (3600-4400rpm 85-100kpa) to trying different latency tables that have smaller values than what was included with the 3006 bin file. None of this seems to make enough of a change, but my knock counts have come down, from almost 1000 hits during a log to less than 250.
I have verified that my base timing with the EST unplugged matches what I have entered into the Bin, but I know I need to setup a locked out timing table so I can try to verify commanded timing is correct throughout the rev range. I also should pull some plugs to check for signs of detonation.
I am open to any suggestions and wanted to jump in on this thread so some might see if I have missed something. I'd really like to get this all dialed in before I make the swap to a Miniram, AFR 195s and a 280XFI cam I have sitting on the shelf, as I know that will be a tuning challenge in itself.
Attached is my latest Bin file, it seems I am unable to upload a datalog file here.
Been a pretty long time for posting here. I am possibly going to be jumping back into the TA this winter. Trying to get a game plan together of what needs done and where I am trying to get to goal wise. One thing is/has always been the tune and getting it closer to where it needs to be. I have been refreshing myself on my old posts to get a better mindset of where I left off.
I've been searching recently to try to find example Open Loop - AFR vs RPM vs VAC tables from tunes that are strictly running open loop to try and have some comparisons available. I feel like mine has always been pushed on the "too rich" side. Especially for idle/cruise. One major goal of mine is to significantly improve or eliminate all together the heavy exhaust smell that sticks to you all day whenever the car gets driven. I am even seriously considering swapping to a much tamer cam if need be. In my early/mid 20s the smell didn't bother me, but I guess aging as a way of changing ones priorities...
At the risk of embarrassment from a wildly wrong table here is my last table I had from 4 years ago when the car was driven last. Also showing a spot in log from a drive with that tune showing full warm idle state info. From what I remember that car drove its "best" the last go-around of me tinkering with it. But that is a very subjective "best" as I know it is far from "right".
My engine specs should be covered in my signature.
[QUOTE=dabomb6608;6514299]Been a pretty long time for posting here. I am possibly going to be jumping back into the TA this winter. Trying to get a game plan together of what needs done and where I am trying to get to goal wise. One thing is/has always been the tune and getting it closer to where it needs to be. I have been refreshing myself on my old posts to get a better mindset of where I left off.
I've been searching recently to try to find example Open Loop - AFR vs RPM vs VAC tables from tunes that are strictly running open loop to try and have some comparisons available. I feel like mine has always been pushed on the "too rich" side. Especially for idle/cruise. One major goal of mine is to significantly improve or eliminate all together the heavy exhaust smell that sticks to you all day whenever the car gets driven. I am even seriously considering swapping to a much tamer cam if need be. In my early/mid 20s the smell didn't bother me, but I guess aging as a way of changing ones priorities...
At the risk of embarrassment from a wildly wrong table here is my last table I had from 4 years ago when the car was driven last. Also showing a spot in log from a drive with that tune showing full warm idle state info. From what I remember that car drove its "best" the last go-around of me tinkering with it. But that is a very subjective "best" as I know it is far from "right". Cam is 218/228 and I run open loop always.
Last edited by Larry; Oct 4, 2023 at 08:06 AM.
Reason: add info
First off, just wanted to say I am impressed with the EBL Flash II. I am running it on my fairly stock 85 Corvette and from the first start the car already ran better than it did before the swap. So far the only work done to the car has been long tube headers, an x pipe exhaust and swapping the 700R4 and 3.07s for a ZF 6 speed and 3.54s. I am running stock 24lb/hr injectors. I chose the 3006 BIN as my base tune despite having iron heads, but did use the 3005 SA tables. I've done about 30 VE learns, mostly with an Innovate LC-2 wideband but I recently switched back to BLM learns with a heated narrowband sensor. I also recently re-enabled PE hoping to combat some KR and CCP as my gas tank was starting to build a ton of pressure. I am fairly happy with my tune overall, and have no major drivability issues. I'll get an occasional idle surge pushing the clutch in when I come to a stop and I also get a decent idle stumble once the cooling fan kicks on a 212.
My primary concern is the knock counts. I have tried a ton of different things to get rid of it, from pulling significant timing out of the 3005 SA tables where I am seeing consistent knock (3600-4400rpm 85-100kpa) to trying different latency tables that have smaller values than what was included with the 3006 bin file. None of this seems to make enough of a change, but my knock counts have come down, from almost 1000 hits during a log to less than 250.
I have verified that my base timing with the EST unplugged matches what I have entered into the Bin, but I know I need to setup a locked out timing table so I can try to verify commanded timing is correct throughout the rev range. I also should pull some plugs to check for signs of detonation.
I am open to any suggestions and wanted to jump in on this thread so some might see if I have missed something. I'd really like to get this all dialed in before I make the swap to a Miniram, AFR 195s and a 280XFI cam I have sitting on the shelf, as I know that will be a tuning challenge in itself.
Attached is my latest Bin file, it seems I am unable to upload a datalog file here.
One thing to also verify is the spark latency table, which is used to, in essence, "tune" the spark timing for the brand of ignition module (assuming the EBL has that).
For example, I found that my Pertronix module was putting in an additional 5° of advance pretty much everywhere across the board. I had to go back and modify the spark latency table which is essentially calibrated for the GM module in the factory tune.
But yeah, you basically lock down all the timing tables to where you get one specific value for all RPMs and loads. Then bust out the dial-back timing light and rev the engine while watching the balancer. You can then see if the actual spark timing matches the commanded spark timing.
I generated a Excel tool based on some formulas that RBob provided, but it's based on the 90-92 7730 ECM. It takes the readings from the timing light and then computes the new latency table required. If the EBL is the same, I can post it up here or email to you.
Thank you. That seems the direction I should take mine. I will probably experiment with pretty lean reported idle AFRs though. I believe my 59* of overlap is fooling the WB so a reported 13.5 AFR would be even richer. Thinking a commanded 15ish might be better at idle.
A quick question, i may make a thread about it later...
I built a strip/street engine with all of the cam overlap and duration. I'm still using the EBL that i had on my previous build which ran normally.
The issue is the table axis for SA, VE... is based on map that can achieve high vacuum where mine only reads between 60 - 100. Is this where i should focus my work or is there another way to utilize the resolution of the tables?
A quick question, i may make a thread about it later...
I built a strip/street engine with all of the cam overlap and duration. I'm still using the EBL that i had on my previous build which ran normally.
The issue is the table axis for SA, VE... is based on map that can achieve high vacuum where mine only reads between 60 - 100. Is this where i should focus my work or is there another way to utilize the resolution of the tables?
Thanks
I will touch on that. My cam idles low-mid 50s kpa at a commanded 900rpm. You will still hit lower KPA values under deceleration, especially if it is a manual transmission. That being said, your focus during VE learns will be the areas that see the most use. Then you will need to smooth the areas that don't get touched during learns. All VE tables still need manual smoothing in the low rpm low MAP corner of the table. Just nature of the beast. Same basic idea for your SA tables but that is all manual tuning. Keep smooth transitions to limit any abrupt changes during driving.
I am having a similar issue with a surge off-idle in closed loop and a slight hunt during open loop idle. I attached a short log showing the surging in closed loop, and hunt down to a 675 stall saver at idle even though my idle is set at 750.
I've installed a VRPR, reset my BPC table (tried the EBL Util table and the 3001 BIN table with similar results), extended my INT delay, adjusted PRPs up and down, did many, many rounds of VE learns.
The car won't idle smooth at any leaner VE than in the current BIN. But even now it seems to slowly reduce idle until it hits the stall saver at 675.
When it comes off idle and goes closed loop, the BLMs drop and it starts to lean it out until the sPW drops to 1.2-1.4 and cAFR of 14.7, whereas it is running sPW 1.6-1.7 at idle and cAFR of 13.4. Seems like it is shutting down the fuel trying to lean it out to the point it swings wildly. Above 2,000 RPM it starts to smooth out and run better. and runs great on the highway and all other times except just off idle.
Current BIN attached is based on the 2018, with modifications for VRPR, SA, VE, PRP, INT delay, Idle (750), stall saver, OPIDL, etc. I also attached a short log showing the behavior.
Any help you could offer would be appreciated! Thank you.
I am having a similar issue with a surge off-idle in closed loop and a slight hunt during open loop idle. I attached a short log showing the surging in closed loop, and hunt down to a 675 stall saver at idle even though my idle is set at 750.
I've installed a VRPR, reset my BPC table (tried the EBL Util table and the 3001 BIN table with similar results), extended my INT delay, adjusted PRPs up and down, did many, many rounds of VE learns.
The car won't idle smooth at any leaner VE than in the current BIN. But even now it seems to slowly reduce idle until it hits the stall saver at 675.
When it comes off idle and goes closed loop, the BLMs drop and it starts to lean it out until the sPW drops to 1.2-1.4 and cAFR of 14.7, whereas it is running sPW 1.6-1.7 at idle and cAFR of 13.4. Seems like it is shutting down the fuel trying to lean it out to the point it swings wildly. Above 2,000 RPM it starts to smooth out and run better. and runs great on the highway and all other times except just off idle.
Current BIN attached is based on the 2018, with modifications for VRPR, SA, VE, PRP, INT delay, Idle (750), stall saver, OPIDL, etc. I also attached a short log showing the behavior.
Any help you could offer would be appreciated! Thank you.
I don't run closed loop or TBI so take this with a grain of salt. But your VE Low Speed has a pretty deep bowl in your low KPA area low rpm area. Try bringing that up to your idle cell values. When you bring the rpms up in the log your rpms rise but your kpa drops due to no load free rev. So you are getting into that low area of your VE table and dropping fueling some. Then can adjust up your other 30-40kpa areas. Those areas typically don't see to much action when doing a VE Learn.
As for the slump into the stall saver, I usually don't see stall saver so close to commanded idle. Let the IAC & SA handle small variances in idle speed and the stall saver handle a more severe drop in rpm. From there can make adjustments to IAC and SA comp tables to resolve that slump. I noticed your IAC steps seem a little low, unless TBI usually runs close to zero? On my car I idle around 30ish steps.
Hi, I am adding some extra sensors to the analogue inputs on my flash 2 and can't find any information on which accelerometer would work with it. Do any of you have one hooked up and what are you using?
Still working on the surge...Since I turned on the CCP and EGR etc. idle in park the rpm surging is certainly there. (It did pass CA. smog no problems.) If I put it in gear at a stop it settles down. This is with prop gains to zero. If anyone can take a quick look at this short log and my bin to see if something jumps out at you that I'm missing I would greatly appreciate it. Thank you!
Still working on the surge...Since I turned on the CCP and EGR etc. idle in park the rpm surging is certainly there. (It did pass CA. smog no problems.) If I put it in gear at a stop it settles down. This is with prop gains to zero. If anyone can take a quick look at this short log and my bin to see if something jumps out at you that I'm missing I would greatly appreciate it. Thank you!
Maybe it is on my end, but I cant open that datalog.
Still working on the surge...Since I turned on the CCP and EGR etc. idle in park the rpm surging is certainly there. (It did pass CA. smog no problems.) If I put it in gear at a stop it settles down. This is with prop gains to zero. If anyone can take a quick look at this short log and my bin to see if something jumps out at you that I'm missing I would greatly appreciate it. Thank you!
Common issue, there is a lean area in the VE table, which causes the RPM to surge upward.
Do a playback with the speed turned all the way to slow. watch the WB O2 go rich/lean. Also grab the RPM & MAP during the lean period. Add to the VE table there. Can also do a more broad addition in order to get the surging to stop.
I started my car for the first time in 3ish years or so. Once warmed up I was playing around with idle fueling and leaning it out a few points on the VE table at a time to see its effects on exhaust smell and stability at idle. My wideband was not reporting data (no surprise) so I was strictly going off of sound, KPa, and stability.
About the third step leaner the car idled for a few seconds then stumbled and died. Started it back up on previous tune and switched banks with the same results every time. I eventually noticed that at that point, the S/F light would come on on the WUD. In my infinite wisdom I wasn't running a datalog...but I seem to recall my sPW at idle was around the 2.4-2.8 mS mark. My Single Fire Mode Enter and Exit values are Exit: 1403.92 uSec Enter: 1205.54 uSec.
Does the reported sPW in WUD get doubled from whatever PW value determines entering and exiting single fire mode? That would be about the only thing I could see potentially activating that unless I am missing something. Would it also cause a motor that was idling seemingly without issue to stumble and die once activated? Maybe its my just injector offsets...
Once I get the car moved to my shop I am going to be downsizing from the questionable 36lb Siemens Deka injectors to some 30lb Bosch IIIs that I can input offsets for. So this all might be dead end questions that won't matter once those are tuned in.
Last edited by dabomb6608; Oct 16, 2023 at 03:28 PM.
Common issue, there is a lean area in the VE table, which causes the RPM to surge upward.
Do a playback with the speed turned all the way to slow. watch the WB O2 go rich/lean. Also grab the RPM & MAP during the lean period. Add to the VE table there. Can also do a more broad addition in order to get the surging to stop.
RBob.
I thank you again for your insight! I had never thought to playback on the slowest speed. It does make it so much easier to catch what is going on. I'm now making real progress on it.
Hey Rbob I have a question. I'm about to swap in a TPI intake on my 92 K1500 with a ZZ4 head and cam combo . I already have the EBL FLASH waiting to go in. What BIN should I start with to get it going?
Hey Rbob I have a question. I'm about to swap in a TPI intake on my 92 K1500 with a ZZ4 head and cam combo . I already have the EBL FLASH waiting to go in. What BIN should I start with to get it going?
Hey, I've got a quick question about navigating the low map(20-30 kpa) "bathtub" area on the VE table
So far, the tuning process if going pretty well. At this point, I've entered closed loop and have begun doing some BLM VE learns. Idle is stable for the first time ever at 14.7 AFR(after installing a VRFPR, and rubber fuel lines), and acceleration feels pretty smooth, but the low map area keeps getting twisted up in as seen in the photo below. With the learns, these areas usually get a bunch of fuel added, and then in a subsequent learn, having the same amount of fuel taken out. Also, revving the engine at a standstill is pretty strange. What it basically does is a slow-time surge if I hold the pedal down at say 1700 rpms at idle - it goes rich (around 13.0 AFR), and then it goes lean (around 16.0 AFR). It basically oscillates like this until I let off the pedal. Do you think the funkiness in the low map area has anything to do with this, since holding a rev on my engine basically takes place in the 20-25 kpa areas of the fuel table?
I've been combing the forums for a while, and it seems like people either usually point to richening up the low map area, or messing with the injector correction offset table. From my understanding from reading the forums, it's not so much that changing to a bigger injector would facilitate the need for different injector offsets, but it's the change in fuel pressure that would warrant a change. In my case I'm running 68hr injectors at 30 PSI with the VRFPR.
What do you think is the best way to approach this?
I am certainly no expert, but I have some experience. Is this a throttle body or tuned port? 68 lb. injectors @30 psi leads me to believe throttle body.
I have experience with tuned port and the learn function will only get you close to a smooth VE graph. You need to manually finish smoothing after a couple of self learning sessions.
I run open loop at all times, so my AFR's can be tailored to my liking and not depend on the O2 sensor to run.
Yep, you're correct - I'm running TBI. That's what I was doing when I was still in open loop as a matter of fact. I would do a few learns, then I'd have to smooth things out...rinse and repeat. Going into closed loop, the BLM learns have actually smoothed out the VE table in most of the areas all by itself, it's just that low map area that's funky.
I guess my question is, how do you go about figuring out what numbers to use in the cells of the low map areas? From my understanding, these low map areas are only activated during decel, and revving, or holding low gear(1st or 2nd) until you get into higher rpms. Do you typically try and go for a target AFR in this area of the VE table like the other areas or do you just flatten it out and not worry about it?
So being I run open loop all the time I only look at AFR.
But the map readings you are trying to correct, 20 -30, is only rarely activated as far as I can tell.
Downhill, off the gas, and driving the engine with the transmission would do it. A manual trans would be most noticeable.
But as you mentioned, de-cell, in this state the injectors would be shutoff and AFR goes way lean.
I doubt the VE table would make a difference, but I have never messed with it, nor cared about it.
Normal engine idle generates more MAP than this normally.
Whatever the original tune had down there is probably where I run mine.
I can tell you this, I have spent a lot of time in the high 30 to low 40 map readings at around 2000 rpm to squeeze gas mileage.
Your post of the VE graph does not show rpm scale.
Another question on fueling. For PE there is a commanded AFR. In PE the actual AFR is richer than the set AFR. Just continue leaning the commanded untill I get what I want even though they don't match? Also is there overlap of the increased fueling from PE and fuel added in the boost vs rpm table?
Yeah I guess it got cut off in the picture. What you're seeing is the low speed VE table 400-2000 rpms. Yeah that's a good point - I forgot DFCO activates when coming off the pedal, which completely shuts off the injectors anyway.
I was always understood that you don't need low PW compensation on Bosch-III's.... that this table is a relic from the old Multec days, when those Multecs were pretty inefficient at low PW's. I've had my low PW compensation table zeroed out since the day I put Bosch-III's on the car.
BTW, here's the voltage offset data from the 968 injectors...
Hi, It is not 100% EBL-related, but I'm asking in this thread because highly skilled group members have EBL. I have EBL since 2019 with my old 1985 Corvette engine. In 2020 I had to rebuild it due to timing chain failure. Now, I have aluminum heads a new rotating assembly, and more. I have the same 24lbs Bosch III since 2018. I also have long headers since 2017, they weren't warped until last year. With the new build, I also replace the starter with a small Hitachi-like starter. From the build (end of 2020) until last year I had an issue that the starter wasn’t working in hot starts. It was because the starter touched the headers and when the header went hot, It cooked the starter and probably the electricity resistance was very high. To solve it I replaced the starter again, this time I went to MSD Ignition 50951. It can be turned away from the header and is solved the hot starts. The headers were also warped.
I have an odd issue, cold starts the engine fires immediately but after a 30-minute drive(190-200F), stop the engine and start it again within 10 minutes, it won’t start unless you fool the pedal. If you wait for 10 minutes the engine starts. There is no issue if I drive from home to the nearest gas station (5 minutes drive), fill it up, and start again with no issue. I’m not sure it in winter time it is better or not.
Can it be related to some EBL parameters? If so, enlighten me.
