cflick, in your opinion is a chassis dyno the way to map your spark table for MBT then? I have read about others who say 1/4 mile and plug cuts. I have a few problems with this, not only is the drag strip where I live only open half of the year it is 1+ hour away. Between the price of fuel, drag strip fees and time consuming, etc, it seems cheaper (to me) to go the chassis dyno route. Once MBT is obtained then you can adjust timing for drivibility. Am I correct in understanding the oder of operations here?

I am still wrapping my head around the "3D" timing maps. I understand how a regular 2D curve works on a mechanical distributor but am having trouble understanding when cruise and medium throttle come into to play (when to advance and retard, etc). If you (or someone else) has time to elbatorate that would be nice for us new guys. I have read tons on this forum and others but nothing has "hit home" yet. Perhaps as I start tuning my own car more things will come easier?

 

I don't know about *the* way, but it's one way, provided it's a real brake, and not just an acceleration roller. Fine, even good, for full throttle full load, max RPM, but not much else. If you're blowing through the lights at 8 grand, how do you know if you're even close at 3 grand ? You're pretty much on-target, and consistent with the way Detroit has done it for years, except that they obtain MBT on a water brake ( well, an eddy brake these days ) engine only, then adjust for in-car drivability. Probably because they're not really 3D. They're 2D at many different possible combinations of RPM and load. The trick is knowing the objective !
For instance, my wildcat at idle, likes 72 degrees advance.
WHAT ?!! you say ?
That's the MBT point with throttles closed, no load.
Remember, under those conditions, top of the compression stroke the absolute cylinder pressure is something LESS than atmospheric ! There is very little in the chamber even after a full burn, and the burn rate at such low pressure is pretty slow. Even after the full burn, cylinder pressure is only 50 PSI or so, so there's not enough of anything to detonate.
It likes it, but the idle is uncontrollable that way, so I run it at a fixed 22 degrees at idle, to be able to control RPM. Crack the throttle, cylinder pressure goes up *dramatically,* and everything changes.
Even detroit knew that under "light cruise" some cars got better mileage with 50+ degrees absolute advance, which is why vacuum advance exists at all. Nothing in the chamber to detonate, and not enough pressure to detonate anything.
THAT's why these "3D" tables are so time consuming and difficult, and at best a compromise.
Unless you are prepared to dyno the thing at every RPM and every load and every throttle condition in the table, you take your most critical and achievable points, then make a best guess, smooth, the rest of the table.
The upside is that you CAN adjust these tables for both the track, and the city streets, which we could never do with the mechanicals.
The question becomes whether you're willing to invest the time and trouble to do it.

 

Im back with another thought/question. In the idea that it is at best a compromise for getting the table as a whole "perfect". What do you view as the most practical way of achieving a decent spark table for someone who doesnt have access to a dyno anywhere near them or doesn't take their car to the strip?

I know some people say "find a stretch of backroad to test on". But that is still going mainly by seat of the pants feel and a guestiment of the performance.

I am really enjoying this current topic because it is mainly what I am in the process of working on with my tune...other then this annoying rich start up/flooding issue Im working with.

 

So is anyone familiar with the SA drop off on the TBI bins ? Was
It a vs idea to remove that "drop off " all at one time ?

 

For me, a trailer and a hill !
Using EBL has significant advantage. It provides enough data in the log to actually do it, but that doesn't mean it's quick, or easy.
Do not use seat of the pants ! That lies.
Use the log data.

 

Drop off ?
I'm assuming you mean the significant reduction in advance at either very low MAP, or at very high RPM ?
In both cases, the purpose is to remove power, and limit output.
At the high end, to save the engine from over speed.
At the low end, to effect deceleration.
At the low end, I don't pull timing, in pursuit of mileage. It works for low speed low load cruise.
The down side, is that the vehicle doesn't slow much when lifting the throttle.

 

I for myself at some points found it a bit difficult to reach all these data points in the VE and SA table with an automatic. You basically will NEED some uphill driving and maybe even some brake application to get the engine load up. Sometimes a highway helps, when traffic is low. Or a rather unfrequented country road. For me it was kinda hard because sometimes I would get results that were quite off from what had been learned before :/ There's always influence from temperature, humidity altitude and what not else... Hard and maybe even unnecessary to get it .. 'perfect'. Imho Closed Loop operation will compensate nicely for VE/fueling inconsistencies in the table, so just have to get it close enough for OL, and most time CL will be fine.
Let's see if I can do better this season
Btw, if any of you would have some input on this thread of mine that'd be great! https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tech...350-build.html

 

I try to find a road "course" that gives me varied conditions, particularly inclines and descents, stop/go, local, highway cruise. At part throttle I am
Looking for the SA that lowers the MAP motor is operating at.
Do same speed, lower MAP until it starts to climb again. I also listen to exhaust note and the crispness/responsiveness to small throttle changes.

 

I believe there needs to be a system in place to tune SA. The OEMs do so on a dyno and spend possibly 100's of hours perfecting it. OEM is looking for emishions as well as drivability. As Dominic said "SA that lowers MAP" or raises VAC. It was said by JP once shoot for highest MPH. I believe that was a reference for WOT. So a 1/4 mile SA that affords highest MPH without detonation or knock with subsequent retard. I believe that highest MPH could be used for every SA cell in main table for RPM/MAP. Same on highest VAC. That is a lot of cells in my def file! Somewhere there is a Grumpy post that is a good read. There are factors that need to accounted for like engine oil temp, coolant temp, and heat soak of piston. That takes one back to dyno with multiple sensors and hours of analysis.

Dominic: Am I close on this?

 

And I do it with pressure traces, but you still spend hundreds of hours.
There is no easy way, sadly.
And I would agree, or tend to agree. You can find some really advance settings that appear to work, but put you dangerously close to the edge.
Well, I do remember that back in my pro-gas days, we found that a 3 degree retard at top end got us faster in the lights.
RPM was high, and torque ( acceleration ) was dropping at that point, and backing off the advance at and above that point, we went faster.
And I would tend to agree.
The trick will be keeping things in that cell long enough to get meaningful data.
I think you're close.

Methinks spark is probably the single most difficult thing to get right.
There is value in starting with stock curves, since the OEM has already done considerable research. They will be close.
Even if, as I had to do, no table exists for the engine in question, and one must construct one from scratch. Pick the closest OEM example, and use the published mechanical specs as a place to start.
There won't be anything at all "under the curve" and that's where it gets fun, but at least there's a curve to start from.
Next, accept that the OEM probably was close ! Keep your changes small.

 

Past season I discarded my changed LO3 SA table in favor of a blend of Iron LT1 and Alum LT4. I added SA to LT1 splitting the difference between the two. I am half way between the two for SA. (2006 CNC Edel RPM heads 64 cc).

 

I have a strange thing going on lately... I'm having connection issues between the EBL and my lappytop. Typically after I find the port it's using, it will work for a little bit, but then it seems to lose connection. If I turn the ignition off & back on, usually it starts to work. I also have problems with flashing. It gives TX errors if I've had it running, but if I flash just after turning the ignition on (sometimes after switching to a different USB port), it usually flashes ok, but then when I try to flash again (flashed many times before while it was running) it gives the same TX error, even though it stumbles & recovers like it did before when it would successfully flash. Should I hazard a fresh WUD install?

I also discovered the source of my 1800-2100rpm miss... it was the plugs. Threw in a set of stock replacement Bosch platinums & it runs a lot better now.

 

TX errors are caused by the transmit buffer still having data in it, or the port not being open. It won't hurt to try a fresh copy of the WUD.

However, I'm more inclined to think that this is a driver or laptop issue. It may also be another process that is hogging the CPU. Can use the task manager to find out.

RBob.

 

somehow that does read different from ' & now it's gone' what plug gap did you use?

btw cflick, your comments about spark plugs, gapping, etc from before were really educating!
also good info you all posted for dialing in SA.

 

They're a 'fine wire' stock replacement, I believe the PN is 6703, at least that's what I found on Autozone's site... they retailed for the same at Pep Boys. The box says they're pre-gapped so I left them as is... which is noticeably wider than the copper Champions that were originally in.


I'll give the WUD reinstall a shot, it's the updated version (3.0). Once I finally get paid (first payday is tomorrow but since I didn't have direct deposit set up they're mailing me a prepaid Visa -_- ) I'll give flashing another shot, and hopefully pass emissions! WBO2 was reading a steady 14.0 with lean cruise at 30mph (loaded test).

 

I'd throw the Bosch plugs in the trash and put a set of AC Delco plugs in there.

 

Well if they carried Delco platinums I would've gotten 'em (they only had iridium and I'm not ready to spend $6 a plug). I just started working there so I get a discount.

 

I'd guess the Bosch wouldn't make any problems. Question was if the condition has gone away completely or just "got better"

 

I wouldn't.
There are valid catalytic reasons to use platinum. They may allow you to retard timing another degree.
The primary reason for platinum plugs, is plug wear.
Cars today, are intended to go 100K+ miles with no servicing to speak of.
Platinum wears slowly enough to allow that in a good running engine.
For nearly everyone on this forum, the $1.35 plain steel AC Delco plugs are probably a better bet, since we're typically fussing with things anyway.
But, once you're "finished" tuning, ( yeah, that'll happen ) platinum are just fine.

 

Hey Rbob,

I had a question in regards to my now vacuum referenced fuel pressure. I went ahead and T-ed off the vacuum line heading to the brake booster and placed the new line into my AFPR. Before I did this I set the base pressure to 24psi on my regulator and now when I'm idling I notice that the vacuum brings it down to about 18 psi. When I apply throttle, the FRP reads much lower during the throttling to say about 14 psi and rises back up when I let go of the throttle. Not sure if this is normal or if this could be due to my cam?

Thanks!

 

Depends on which side of the check valve your "T" is ?
The idea of the vacuum reference, is to vary fuel pressure so that you effectively increase the range of the injectors.
You want to be directly off the manifold with vacuum. That way the fuel pressure tracks throttle opening ( more correctly, fuel demand ) so that you have low vacuum and more fuel available when the throttles are open, and high vacuum and less fuel when the throttles are closed, allowing more controllable longer injector time at closed throttle, and more controllable less injector time at high throttle, keeping the injectors away from the limits at zero and static.
The brake booster is designed to accumulate and maintain highest vacuum, and *not* track the throttles, so the key is which side of the booster check valve ?
It's pretty normal to see vacuum drop a lot ( and fuel pressure increase ) on a throttle blip, then reverse as RPM comes up and vacuum increases at some low throttle setting.
Does this help, or confuse ?

 

Ok, so I think I understand what ya mean... Basically your saying that the reasoning behind vacuum referencing the fuel pressure is to have the fuel pressure vary depending on the load of the engine. If the engine is crusing then ill be pulling in alot of vacuum and the fuel pressure will be lower. If the engine is at half thottle then ill be pulling in less vacuum causing the fuel pressure to be a bit higher. If the engine is under WOT, then I shouldnt be pulling any vacuum causing the fuel pressure to reach the base pressure yet if the manifold is under boost then we'd see the opposite; an increase in fuel pressure above the base pressure. Is all of this correct ?

If so, im still a bit concerned why the fuel pressure is decreasing while I blip the thottle. Im thinking it may have to do with my cam producing little vacuum at idle and more vacuum at 2/5s thottle ?

 

Yep !
What's the RPM when you're seeing this ?
My mill produces quite a bit more vacuum at 1200 RPM than it does at a dead idle. ( on the order of 2 to 1 )
In fact, vacuum ( or MAP ) is roughly the same at dead idle, and freeway cruise !
( and is part of the reason I live with 1% injector DC at idle < or less > and a slightly erratic idle, as I prefer that to the fuel table compensations that would otherwise be required )
(( yeah, I know. VE-Learn could fix it, given enough time ))

 

I'd think its no where past 3500 rpms... whenever I WOT I usually wont do it at idle but I can give it a try and see what it does. My DC is very low at idle as well... I've never paid too much attention to it. Unfortunately I'm a bit stumped with what I can do with the car right now as it's currently got an overheating issue.

After about 30 minutes of stop and go driving it starts to overheat slowly till if reaches the red and I need to turn it off... Wont overheat if I just turn the engine on and let it idle forever on the driveway.

Fans turn on fine... I dont really want to try diagnosing the problem and since I have more money than time right now I might just throw in a new radiator and water pump. One thing I did notice that makes me start to think about the head gasket is that when it was overheating a few days ago one of the bolt holes on the driverside head spurt out a lil coolant. I think that bolt hole is made for a different style intake. Guess these heads support both 2 styles of intake manifolds. Maybe I could get a quick suggestion on this as well.

Thanks for all the help!

 

With a VRFPR the end result is a longer PW at lower loads. This helps with fuel distribution which then helps with smoothness and driveability. Then at higher loads the fuel pressure is increased for the higher required injector flow to support the power.

On a performance TBI engine a VRFPR is a win-win all around.

Overheating, make sure that the proper SA is being used. It sounds like you may have changed the heads? The stock swirl port heads take very little SA. Changing to a regular L98 head and now there isn't enough SA, which will contribute to overheating.

Other items to check: make sure that the fan blows into the engine compartment, not out the front grill. Air dam is required. Remove the top radiator support and check the area between the radiator and the A/C condenser. That area likes to fill with debris which restricts airflow.

Make sure that the water pump is a reverse rotation type for a serpentine set up.

It also may be that the radiator is clogged some.

RBob.

 

I noticed that the air dam scoop is pointing towards the rear of the car. Only way it would pick air up is if I was driving in reverse. My car was wrecked in 1994 so may have been something that happened then.

Funny thing is that nothings really changed... The new engine only has 700 miles. For the first 600 miles it was fine till now... I know the water pump is the right type and the fan does blow towards the engine.

I think the overheating started happening ever since my 2600 stall torque converter and shift kit install so a trans cooler may be needed but I'll look into flipping my air dam to face forward and blowing anything out in between the AC and radiator first.

 

Driving around 1 year with good tunes, but yesterday Car didn't start. Somehow battery had lost it's power and after charging it Car did start. I did some unsuccesfull tries before charging it - so voltage drop was obvious.

So the problem is that EBL seems to be completely messed up:
Lot of malfunction codes flashing and even showing that there is some Boost present??? Speedometer shows also wrong, car wasn't moving in that, please look pic:


It gets connection, but I cannot read or flash tunes.
Anyhow it seems like my tunes are in memory, because I have raised idle tunes and I was able to swicht to them and hear that idle raises.

All suggestions to solve this are highly appreciated

I also took battery wires off for night if that would reset the EBL computer, but I quess there isn't way to do it?

I also sold my daily driver some days ago, and I am looking for other, but nice American cars for daily driver (eg. Silverados) are not so common here!

 

Check the alternator and battery cables and such. There may be a shorted diode in the alternator which will 'mess up' the ECM (something drained the battery).

If the reported voltage on the WUD is correct, it is low. It should be at least a volt higher.

I realize that overseas shipping is pricey, but we will check out the EBL Flash ECM and repair or replace as required.

RBob.

 

I checked all wires going to starter and alternator. Everything seems to be ok. I measured the real Voltage which is 14,4 V when engine is running. Anyhow Car works as it always has with this tune - very well!

I haven't flashed new stuff for a few months so I cannot be 100% sure that problem with WUD started after battery went empty. Only now I realised it, and something caused the battery to go empty.

Can it be on interface or is part of the ECM really dead? Just not keen to take EBL out of from car now... And with stock computer it wont work anymore.

 

The symptoms you describe are unusual. Being able to switch banks, but get bad data, and can't flash or read. If it was just bad data, that points to a certain area of the board. But you would still likely to be able to flash or read a bank.

It may be something in the interface. A bank switch command is very short, just a few bytes. While the data packets and such are much longer. Is the whirly-gig in the upper right corner a steady rotation? If not, that points to a data interface issue.

If all is working for now then good to go until you have a another daily driver.

RBob.

 

Bit confused myself too - I have background from programming.

When I first start WUD, while engine running it appears grey for while and then it colour up with all that data and that whirly-gig starts rotating like it does when connection is ok.

I think I will remove and install all drivers for the interface. I suggest interface because part of the data is relevant like RPM, but other part is not. And could my car be running if the ECM really would be broken...?

Thanks for your support!

 

That would depend on exactly what broke, but it seems would be unusual.
Quick and dirty, measure the voltage right at the pins on the ECM.
If the voltage agrees with the WUD display, we know nothing about the ECM, but if it reads different then we know that the ECM is suspect at best.
Rbob can tell us exactly which pins are best to get a meter onto.

 

Not true !
Because of the air rotation due to the vector change at the windshield, the backwards air scoop actually gets considerably more air configured that way.
snip
Trans typically runs several degrees above engine temp, maybe 10. Might tell you something.
I'd find one of those infra-red thermometers and start checking things like the temperature difference between the upper and lower radiator hoses, hot and cold spots on the radiator itself, things like that.
Late timing can certainly contribute to this, but it's only one of several things.
Does the heater blow really, REALLY hot when you're seeing this ?

 

You were right about the air dam, it was in place correctly since theres no possible way it could be rotated lol

snip? what exactly does that one mean?

After my failed attempt at fixing the problem today, I'm going to have to start those tests. Today I took the radiator out, I put a hose in each inlet on the radiator and made sure the water flowed smoothly through to the other end. I took out the water pump and made sure the fin inside was in good condition. It was. Put everything back together and bleed the system with new coolant. Put a stud on that small hole I was talking about in my previous post to ensure no coolant leaked out. Blew through the radiator fins and the heater core fins with my hand on the other side making sure I could feel the air all the way through. Everything seemed fine.

After all of this, it seemed to have improved my overheating a bit, it wont start the overheating until after about 30 mins, during this time it will stay below 220 for the first 15 mins and start slowly slowly creeping up past 220 into 230 and slowly higher till I turn the engine off. During this overheating period if I rev the engine a bit and keep it reved it will slowly start decreasing (at idle)...

I'll be buying a one of those infra red thermo guns this week to run that test.



I was able to get some tuning done. It feels ridiculously slower with the new supercharger but I think its due to the fact that my tune is taking away A LOT of spark.... Previously my WOT was at 32 degrees... Now its down at 21. My AFR is really rich on top of this due to the added fuel under boost, probably at about 10.8 - 11.8. Just wanted to make sure that these tune adjustments will make my car much slower since its a bit of a let down after so much work lol

Although before I start adding the spark back via the boost compensation tables I want to fix the overheating.

 

oh, and as far as the heater goes... I have no idea. I never use it. But I can give it a try, I'll turn it on while its in the overheating stage and see how it blows.

 

It's a 30 year old internet/newsgroup/email standard indicating that the quote is not complete. Part has been "snipped" out.
It doesn't take much to move A LOT more water and air through the radiator !
*I* don't have enough experience on blown engines to make an informed comment, but it strikes me that this *may* be the source of the whole problem !

 

Imho it shouldn't overheat in idle regardless of a boosted application?
Are you maybe using some kind of underdrive pulleys that might keep the water pump from pumping the necessary volume at idle? Have you checked for coolant pressure leaks?

 

For piece of mind I would replace the radiator with a new one. Just because the radiator flows water doesn't mean it is not restricted. I own a k1500 and the radiator compared to that of these f-bodys always made me wonder how these cars run cool. I would think that by its size they are just big enough to cool a sbc and any restriction in flow would be enough to cause a problem.

 

I wouldn't ! ( but that's me )
I would check it either by hand or with an infra-red thermometer, or both, for hot and cold spots.

The reason is, I'd want to KNOW what the problem was and that it has been corrected.
Further, he indicates that this is a new problem, so this radiator worked before....
( suggesting the radiator itself is fine )

For me, replacing something without knowing to a certainty that it's bad is introducing yet another variable, not reducing variables to the one problem that needs addressed. It adds stress, not peace of mind.

For instance.....
He suggests that after the overheat <sic> is in progress, he can raise the idle a bit, and it cools down.
OK.
Is the radiator blazing hot WHILE the overheat is occurring, OR is it stone cold ?
What about the heater core ? Is it blowing blazing hot, or is IT stone cold ?
That tells is something, and it tells us it's definitely not the radiator !
Calls into question the water pump, and/or pully ratio.
Because that is data we ( forum participants ) currently lack, we can not make any valid suggestion about replacing parts, but merely how to confirm suspected problems, likely based on our own experiences.

Personally, I've been through the problem, exactly as described, but not a blown engine, and in the final analysis, it was late timing. About 5 degrees.
( and a 5 core custom radiator that should cool a small country )
That's why I wonder about his timing, even though it's a blown mill.

I'm leaning towards timing, and EBL makes it WAY too easy to test.
Flash another tune, where the only thing changed is a few degrees in the "problem" area, and run it !
Better, or worse ?
There's reason those of us that run an EBL do so. This is but one of them.

 

Cflick, you sound pretty sure it's not the radiator but notice this is when the problem started. This would put a higher load on the radiator with internal tranny cooling. The blower I'm sure would generate additional heat also. Pulley on blower may had put the cooling of the radiator on the edge and the stall may have tipped it.

If the radiator is slightly clogged, RBob suggested as a maybe too, it wouldn't help. Napster, assuming a al. radiator were you using the proper orange antifreeze?

Water pump isn't likely the problem, seals usually go bad on water pumps not impellers..

Not saying his timing may not be off or blower pulley may be causing the water pump to spin slower. Replacing radiator was just a recommendation, from experience of course, sorry it offended you.

 

No sir !
My point being that I'm *not* sure.

Agreed, but not at idle.

Agreed, but not at idle. Under load, yes, and possibly a great deal.

Um.......

And the ONLY reason I didn't mention it is because Bob did.

Again, agreed, assuming the pump is adequate in the first place.
Truth be told, I just don't know.

Oh, I'm far from offended !
In fact, grateful for the opportunity to expound on *why* I don't just replace parts without being certain.
Radiator would be a simple fix, *if* it fixes it. A waste of money and time if it doesn't, plus wonderings about the then new radiator !

Remember, the objective is both discussion for the enlightenment of us all, and solving his problem. Not something so insignificant and trivial as avoiding offending me. ( which is both REALLY trivial, and exceedingly difficult to do )
After all, I could be worng !

 

I respect your opinion on not being a parts swapper to find a problem and agree with it.

I was trying to point out in my op that a assuring a radiator is working at its maximum efficiency and gpm cannot be confirmed by just running water through it. It would have to be flow tested which cost money.

Replacing if this is the original 20 year old radiator for peace of mind might not be a bad idea especially since it wasn't designed for the additional stress that his aftermarket mods are putting to it.

I don't have a history with third gen's, have been following this thread because of my interest in a EBL. Curios if this radiator is even adequate and have others used a similar combo without any cooling issues in their third gen?

 

FWIW I read once an issue similar to your re: radiator. It was say that it could be the flow of coolant within too fast disallowing the opportuniuty to transfer heat to the environment.

Are you using an aftermarket WP or same on pulley?

 

I know this is late (haven't driven the car until recently due to roads covered in salt), but I figured I would post an update to help someone who may have this problem in the future. I found a substantial vacuum leak from the TPS area of my throttle body which I believe is the cause of the AFR fluctuations. I could nearly stall the motor when spraying the area with brake cleaner. I haven't tracked the car, but from the limited data logging I've done on the street, fixing the vacuum leak seems to have smoothed out the AFR at WOT. The car drives a bit better in general as well. Rbob was helping me with this over email a while back, so I'd like to thank him for answering my questions directly.

 

Oh my, maybe I should just go off and make a standalone thread for my cooling issue. The overheating started happening before the blower. Also, if I drive on the freeway the overheating will not occur. Unfortunately I haven't had a chance to buy the thermo gun but im thinking of buying it tonight and running the tests tommarrow or sunday. As far as replacing the radiator goes, I was thinking about it and doesn't sound like a bad idea since i may need it either way. My cooling system is completely stock. Stock thermostat, stock water pump, stock radiator, stock fan, stock temp switch. The only pulley modification I've made was removing the smog pump. The supercharger runs off its own pulley to the crank.

 

Oh, really ? There's a bit of data we didn't have !
Now I'm inclined to agree with ecir45, and it well may be the current radiator is "on the edge" especially with the freeway thing.
If so, turning the heater on full should show a noticeable decrease in temp when the temp climbs above the thermostat setting.
If so, I'd be looking for a radiator that will fit, and has as much more cooling capacity as you can find, because summer is coming !

 

It may be that the thermostat isn't fully opening.

RBob.

 

Napster134, you may want to thoroughly read the first sticky in the cooling forum.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/cooling/

 

(note: this is a quote of post # 2228, there is a graph along with tabular data of the run in the OP).

Well, Spring is here and time to square away the fueling. Need to increase the VE table where the AFR is going lean. In one particular area of 4800 RPM through 5200 RPM, 97-98 KPa MAP, the VE% is in the 64 - 66% range.

The injectors are at 67 - 71% DC, so more injector is available. Increase the VE all through that range. Also, check the other gears for the RPM range that they use. Be sure to increase the VE throughout these RPM ranges.

AE: when the go pedal is mashed again for the next gear there is a short lean spike. Not likely to eliminate this, nature of a wet intake. Although increasing/correcting the VE will help.

However, the AE is too much as the AFR dips very rich. The injector DC% is also being max'd out which is actually truncating the AE.

Note that I'm at the 00:02:03 area of the log. The AE data shows the delta TPS (dTPS) and delta MAP in the 37 to 60%/KPa range, so high up in the AE PW tables. Reduce the AE - TPS PW and AE - MAP PW tables from 30%/Kpa on up to the highest rows.

If you can do some 2nd gear pulls that will provide useful data to help get the VE tables in shape.

RBob.

 

Thanks Rbob! I'll take a look AE and VE areas you mentioned in my calibration.