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I have an odd issue, cold starts the engine fires immediately but after a 30-minute drive(190-200F), stop the engine and start it again within 10 minutes, it won’t start unless you fool the pedal. If you wait for 10 minutes the engine starts. There is no issue if I drive from home to the nearest gas station (5 minutes drive), fill it up, and start again with no issue.
I like to fool my pedal by sneaking up on it while wearing a wig, it has no idea its me.
Assuming your injectors aren't leaking, and your VE is in good shape... it sounds like your IAC steps and Cranking Fuel needs to be smoothed out in the temperature area in which you're having an issue. Either that or you IAC is sticky and its taking ten minutes for it to catch up to where it needs to be during a hot re-start.
Sounds like a typical heat soak situation. Leaving a hot engine sit makes IAT go way up due to intake manifold heat. Is your IAT in the manifold or in the intake ducting?
If you can monitor the IAT and O2 during cranking while hot it would help.
Although the O2 sensor will not see a rich condition unless you actually have some combustion happening.
The O2 sensor will not react to raw fuel being dumped on it.
On my 1990 corvette the IAT sensor is in the manifold. So, it reads the hot air that is present in the manifold when heat soaked.
With the small engine compartment, the heat soaking is magnified.
Something to think about.
02/04/2024 16:44:15 Scalar: HotRST - Shut Down CTS for Hot Restart changed from 104.75 �C (0xC1) to 119.75 �C (0xD5).
02/04/2024 16:44:28 Scalar: HotRST - Key on CTS for Hot Restart changed from 104.75 �C (0xC1) to 119.75 �C (0xD5).
02/04/2024 16:55:18 Table: IAC - Minimum Idle Steps changed.
02/04/2024 18:37:41 Table: Crank - AFR changed. (changed from 10.0 to 12.8 within the 176F area)
02/05/2024 13:43:59 Scalar: IAC - Volt Drop for Steps changed from 0.40 Volts (0x04) to 0.20 Volts (0x02).
02/05/2024 13:47:10 Table: IAC - Powerup Init Steps changed.
02/05/2024 13:50:41 Scalar: IAC - Steps for Low BatV changed from 5.00 Steps (0x05) to 25.00 Steps (0x19).
I think the engine was flooded after a drive so I had to floor it while cranking. after I changed the above, I took it for a 30-mile drive, shut it, and restart it again after a minute without any issues.
Is there any particular reason the EBL XDF files don't have the parameter descriptions populated with the descriptions found in the EBL Calibration file? Seems that would save a lot of confusion and from having to go back and forth between the two.
I have some questions and observation about option word 3 bit 7. It states that checking it makes the ecm ebl voltage to be used for the injector voltage offsets.
If it is not checked-does it then use the pump voltage for the injector offsets? Or???
I have been having a problem with idle surge starting when the fans come on-everything I've tried would not stop it, I've been able to only decrease it, and it would even stall if in gear at times.
I noticed that the voltage on the WUD between ignition and pump is different by up to a volt+ once it's warmed up and fans etc. running. I do have a direct wire from the Batt to the 2 pumps(one in tank and one in line) and use the original pump power wire to activate a relay back at the tank which may account for the difference.
I checked option word 3 bit 7 and then on the WUD both ignition and pump voltage read identical.
And now it does one slight idle surge with fans coming on and then settles right down to a nice idle. (I have dual puller Spal fans plus a pusher fan that all come on at once.)
All I can think of is that the injectors were being adjusted for a higher voltage than what they were actually recieving-so basically my injector offsets were being skewed incorrectly.
Does that make sense?
I hope this helps other folk struggling with the same situation!
Last edited by drive it; May 24, 2024 at 03:52 PM.
All I can think of is that the injectors were being adjusted for a higher voltage than what they were actually recieving-so basically my injector offsets were being skewed incorrectly.
Does that make sense?
Yes it does. It's essentially the equivalent of running incorrect voltage offsets in the tune.
On mine, I put my main keyed voltage circuit on a heavy duty relay. The ignition switch only turns the relay on and the relay powers the keyed voltage circuit. Now if I look at my Tunerpro data, the battery voltage and the keyed ignition voltage only vary by a few mV.
Also, grounds, grounds, grounds... you can never have too many grounds.
Probably a lot of running problems can be (at least partially) traced to electrical deficiencies.
I've already added several large gauge cable xtra grounds.engine to frame points. Another result of changing option word 3 bit 7 is my ve tables are now skewed on the rich side so now I get to redo my ve tables. Oh well!
I have some questions and observation about option word 3 bit 7. It states that checking it makes the ecm ebl voltage to be used for the injector voltage offsets.
If it is not checked-does it then use the pump voltage for the injector offsets? Or???
I have been having a problem with idle surge starting when the fans come on-everything I've tried would not stop it, I've been able to only decrease it, and it would even stall if in gear at times.
I noticed that the voltage on the WUD between ignition and pump is different by up to a volt+ once it's warmed up and fans etc. running. I do have a direct wire from the Batt to the 2 pumps(one in tank and one in line) and use the original pump power wire to activate a relay back at the tank which may account for the difference.
I checked option word 3 bit 7 and then on the WUD both ignition and pump voltage read identical.
And now it does one slight idle surge with fans coming on and then settles right down to a nice idle. (I have dual puller Spal fans plus a pusher fan that all come on at once.)
All I can think of is that the injectors were being adjusted for a higher voltage than what they were actually recieving-so basically my injector offsets were being skewed incorrectly.
Does that make sense?
I hope this helps other folk struggling with the same situation!
This must be for the EBL P4 ECMs? In my EBL Flash Option Word 3 Bit 7 is DglDh - Enable Digital Dash ALDL stream
Question for your guys... Just getting back to getting my 1988 Camaro up and running after blowing an engine a couple years ago... Details in my build thread for anyone interested, but my question is realiately straight forward
I have LS tuning on my mind so I may have just mis-remembered EST base timing setting but i don't think so...
EBL P4 controlling Pro Flow XT set up
I set my base timing parameter to 10 deg and then with a timing light dialed in 10 deg advance with conditions of engine fully warmed up, EST bypass open and then engine code 42 set. I then locked down the distributor. I noticed then after resetting everything and starting back up the engine idled rough... long story short even though system is commanding 20 deg at idle (set idle SA option set) the timing light showed it was still 10 deg. i ringed out the EST line and it was fine and also changed the ICM to new GM one i had... still no change
after thinking about some other things i ended up reving the engine and held it with 35 deg being commanded now at off idle no load the timing light reads 25 deg so the EST was in control
i then started up key on but engine not running, WUD shows 10 deg. When started though with Bypass line open or closed it reads my commanded base idle of ~20 deg floating around for RPM control... i didn't think this was an issue as assumed with bypass open ICM just dumps down to whatever base was
so in the end i turned off RPM SA control at idle, started engine up and then with fully warm and steady idle being commanded of 20 deg i set my timing to 20 deg. Everything now runs correctly, and 35 deg commanded is 35 deg, etc... seems like Bypass open with code set has no effect and EBL is putting out normal EST commands and ICM is obeying it.
what do you guys think????
Last edited by alan91z28; Jun 9, 2024 at 05:43 PM.
actually it is just a basic timing light, no dial... also just by engine sound i can tell with the engine running and opening up the bypass the timing isn't changing as no difference in engine sound
also as the code is set, would EBL be still then on WUD commanding say the 20 deg set point for idle? i initially thought the logic should recognize the fault code and then just be showing the 10 deg base timing set point like it does key on before crank
once i dialed it in just watching whatever the WUD was doing and just setting it and locking it down (as i said i did it at my idle point of 20 deg and zeroing out the tables to utilize SA as RPM control, WUD was showing steady 20 deg at full engine warm as well then as the timing light) i could change the command point to anything i wanted and it would follow it... ie i did things like changing the SA Idle Command point to 30 deg reflashed, started and then it was idleing at 30 deg... using the throttle and having it follow my SA main map same thing. it did this with EST in bypass open or it closed ... weird!
actually it is just a basic timing light, no dial... also just by engine sound i can tell with the engine running and opening up the bypass the timing isn't changing as no difference in engine sound
OK, got'cha.
My bet is that the ICM is bad. When the BYPASS is opened, it is up to the ICM to revert to base timing and clamp the EST signal. The clamped EST signal is what causes the ECM to set code 42.
My bet is that the ICM is bad. When the BYPASS is opened, it is up to the ICM to revert to base timing and clamp the EST signal. The clamped EST signal is what causes the ECM to set code 42.
RBob.
that was my original thought as well and therefore i did change yesterday the ICM to a new GM one with same result... the original one was also a GM one only a couple years old in a complete RAMJET 350 distributor... so my thinking is it is unlikely both are bad
what i am wondering would it be a possibliltiy when i open up the bypass line that somehow in the harness the bypass wire on the ICM side is still seeing a ground so it isn't going into bypass and still responding to EST signal... ie can 42 be set on ECM side only with the bypass open on the ECM side vs the ICM needing to indicate anything back to the ECM
also i take it that it is normal for the ECM to still be driving the EST signal to be whatever is normal desire vs locking it at base timing signal when code 42 is active? ie code 42 doesn't have any effect on how ECM outputs EST
also i thought about could there be anything with the knock sensor signal on off chance as i am using the LT1 filter in the P4, but i also then just removed that for no filter and it didn't change anything either
Hey guys, i've got a quick question about TPS readings. I've noticed that as I go on longer drives, my TPS % rises at idle, the longer I drive. So if i do a quick 15 min drive or so, when I come to a stop light, my TPS % will go back to "0". But if I go on an hour long drive, when I get back home, my TPS % might read something like 5-7% at idle, and I think it's starting to affect the idle, because it starts hunting/surging. I've adjusted my TPS so that it always reads .5v at idle, but this doesn't seem to help the percentage as I go on longer drives. Btw, my IAC counts are usually pretty decent(around 5-11 counts or so).
Question is, is this a normal occurrence for any of you? I figured the TPS% should go back to 0% it idle, no matter how long you've been driving, as long as the computer reads around .5v or so, but I could be wrong. Thanks!
that was my original thought as well and therefore i did change yesterday the ICM to a new GM one with same result... the original one was also a GM one only a couple years old in a complete RAMJET 350 distributor... so my thinking is it is unlikely both are bad
It is either both ICMs are bad, or you are not opening the correct connector. There isn't much more to it. Either the ICM reverts back to base timing and clamps the EST signal from the ECM. Or it doesn't and it is bad.
Note that with code 42 set the ECM still goes through all of the spark calculations. It is just that since the ECM opened the BYPASS (electronically) the distributor, when good, ignores the EST signal (recall that it is also clamped to ground).
Question is, is this a normal occurrence for any of you? I figured the TPS% should go back to 0% it idle, no matter how long you've been driving, as long as the computer reads around .5v or so, but I could be wrong. Thanks!
If this is an ECM that auto-zeros the TPS (EBL units do). Then it is likely that the TPS sensor is worn out, loose mounting, or the throttle lever is allowing it to go low from time to time.
An ECM that auto-zeros the TPS keeps track of the lowest seen TPS voltage, and bases TPS % == 0 to that voltage. If the TPS V keeps dipping low...
Yep, this is an EBL Flash ECM. I noticed that if I restart the truck, the TPS % will go back to zero. The TPS voltages are always consistent at idle(.5v), but the percentage in the WUD display will slowly go up the longer I drive.
Yep, this is an EBL Flash ECM. I noticed that if I restart the truck, the TPS % will go back to zero. The TPS voltages are always consistent at idle(.5v), but the percentage in the WUD display will slowly go up the longer I drive.
You've checked the TPS voltage directly with a multi-meter when at full operating temp?
Keep in mind, the vacuum from the engine can apply a force to the throttle blades and not allow it it to close if it's the throttle shaft is loose or binding. When the throttle body gets hot, things expand due to temperature, so it may not be a problem at cold, but may start binding when hot. Then when you shut the engine off, the vacuum effect is removed, allowing the throttle to fully close.
It is either both ICMs are bad, or you are not opening the correct connector. There isn't much more to it. Either the ICM reverts back to base timing and clamps the EST signal from the ECM. Or it doesn't and it is bad.
Note that with code 42 set the ECM still goes through all of the spark calculations. It is just that since the ECM opened the BYPASS (electronically) the distributor, when good, ignores the EST signal (recall that it is also clamped to ground).
RBob.
OK just to close the loop on this... after thinking about could both ICMs really be bad which seems very unlikely i got back to thinking about the sequence of events after i installed the second one after concluding myself the first ICM must be bad over the weekend... i remember i ended up getting interrupted in my testing shortly after getting the second one installed and the car fired up to help my wife / daughter while working on it and after thinking about it i questioned myself after reading your comment above on did i actually go back and open the bypass on the second one
so long story short, the first ICM was bad and the second one works as expected... i went back through and retested everything this afternoon after work and now we have a working ICM with good bypass, good base timing, and good EST response when not on bypass... thanks for the continued thoughts and working through this
i found that for the base timing setting i needed to be definately north of 10 deg to get it to reasonably idle in bypass... i have it set right now at 18 deg for base timing
also i found that it appears that closed loop with this cam in the light load / low throttle gives me trouble with surging and i can see the fuel trims moving a lot... i switched to open loop and have had better success
So I got my 89 GTA running Dynamic Flash II and followed a ton of helpful posts here to get it running fairly well.
Anyone care to look at my bin and let me know if there is anything else I should do? Its a blueprint 355 with mild cam, headers, alum heads. Thanks!
I am very far from calling myself an expert. But just looking at your fueling and spark tables I see some oddities. You peak in the VE table at 3600 RPM and drop like a rock from there. It has been awhile since I have ran closed loop with PE but that seems off If you were to steady state get above 3600 rpm while not entering PE mode you would be running lean. Your spark advance seems low at WOT as well. Unless you are adding elsewhere, 20* spark advance isn't much at all with aluminum heads for WOT. You have into the 40s at cruise/low throttle areas which might be pushing it even for those areas. What are your knock counts saying?
I am very far from calling myself an expert. But just looking at your fueling and spark tables I see some oddities. You peak in the VE table at 3600 RPM and drop like a rock from there. It has been awhile since I have ran closed loop with PE but that seems off If you were to steady state get above 3600 rpm while not entering PE mode you would be running lean. Your spark advance seems low at WOT as well. Unless you are adding elsewhere, 20* spark advance isn't much at all with aluminum heads for WOT. You have into the 40s at cruise/low throttle areas which might be pushing it even for those areas. What are your knock counts saying?
Thanks. I'm going to make some adjustments..maybe while at Carlisle this weekend
I'll report back.
Last edited by 89 GTA 355; Jun 20, 2024 at 07:35 PM.
I am very far from calling myself an expert. But just looking at your fueling and spark tables I see some oddities. You peak in the VE table at 3600 RPM and drop like a rock from there. It has been awhile since I have ran closed loop with PE but that seems off If you were to steady state get above 3600 rpm while not entering PE mode you would be running lean. Your spark advance seems low at WOT as well. Unless you are adding elsewhere, 20* spark advance isn't much at all with aluminum heads for WOT. You have into the 40s at cruise/low throttle areas which might be pushing it even for those areas. What are your knock counts saying?
Wasn't able to tweak the tune yet, plan on doing it this weekend. Here is my spark knock count from my 2.5 hour trip to Carlisle PA. If I rev my engine in park I get a lot more knock counts leading me to believe that they are false counts. Maybe my KS is overtightened? Maybe I have an incorrect KS or maybe because its so close to the headers?
One thought I had was to dump a can of Octane Booster in the tank (I run 91 or 93) to see if that changes those knock areas.
Seems like I could advance more at the top end, I'll give that a shot.
Wasn't able to tweak the tune yet, plan on doing it this weekend. Here is my spark knock count from my 2.5 hour trip to Carlisle PA. If I rev my engine in park I get a lot more knock counts leading me to believe that they are false counts. Maybe my KS is overtightened? Maybe I have an incorrect KS or maybe because its so close to the headers?
One thought I had was to dump a can of Octane Booster in the tank (I run 91 or 93) to see if that changes those knock areas.
Seems like I could advance more at the top end, I'll give that a shot.
I am fighting what appears to be false knock on my own setup. My next move is to purchase a new Delco sensor from early 90s roller 350 and very carefully install it with in/lbs torque wrench. If I still have issues after that I will be installing a 90* fitting to try to silence it some.
You might also consider verifying accurate SA numbers at different RPMs. There are posts in DIY Prom that discuss Spark Latency. If your ICM is spitting out more advance then commanded, you would have higher than expected SA.
Keep in mind the most important thing while dealing with knock counts is pulling spark plugs to inspect for physical signs of detonation. If you actually have knock you don't want to ignore it. I am running premium fuel with aluminum heads, I really can't imagine having spark knock at light load/low rpm with SA only in the high 20s.
I am fighting what appears to be false knock on my own setup. My next move is to purchase a new Delco sensor from early 90s roller 350 and very carefully install it with in/lbs torque wrench. If I still have issues after that I will be installing a 90* fitting to try to silence it some.
You might also consider verifying accurate SA numbers at different RPMs. There are posts in DIY Prom that discuss Spark Latency. If your ICM is spitting out more advance then commanded, you would have higher than expected SA.
Keep in mind the most important thing while dealing with knock counts is pulling spark plugs to inspect for physical signs of detonation. If you actually have knock you don't want to ignore it. I am running premium fuel with aluminum heads, I really can't imagine having spark knock at light load/low rpm with SA only in the high 20s.
I've pulled my plugs and all is good. No signs of detonation and I don't hear even the slightest of pings. My KS is within inches of my thin walled hooker headers and I think that's my issue. I went I rev it a little in park I watch the WUD and see knock counts appear on the decel.. I don't believe that knocks can occure on decel but I'm no expert.
Now that's is summer, I have an entirely new issue where I stall out when I come to a stop when coolant temps are above 195. At idle I see the AE and Launch lights come on and I get a surge then it stalls.
I've pulled my plugs and all is good. No signs of detonation and I don't hear even the slightest of pings. My KS is within inches of my thin walled hooker headers and I think that's my issue. I went I rev it a little in park I watch the WUD and see knock counts appear on the decel.. I don't believe that knocks can occure on decel but I'm no expert.
Now that's is summer, I have an entirely new issue where I stall out when I come to a stop when coolant temps are above 195. At idle I see the AE and Launch lights come on and I get a surge then it stalls.
It sounds to me like you are having enough movement in KPa that you are triggering both AE and Launch Mode. My car being a stick shift I have my LM - Delta MAP Threshold Enter maxed out to not allow it to activate. My AE - Delta Map Qualifier is still the base bin (3006) 2.19 KPa. The base LM threshold is 1.56 KPa so right there with the AE threshold value.
Unless you've got a radical cam (low LSA), your idle KPa should be pretty steady. Is this a manual car? I had to adjust my minimum iac steps to get a stable idle with clutch in while moving. Otherwise it would dip low then oscillate till it settled. Make sure your VE tables are smooth in idle area as well as no weird SA transitions at idle rpms too. If it has a large jump in either of those it can cause it to hunt.
Oh... interesting... I deleted my post because I initially referenced delta MAP threshold as a possible culprit as well, and then noticed he had a MAF car. But it sounds like even the MAF cars have a delta-MAP parameter in the code? Or I guess this is EBL so it's something totally different?
I'm not nearly as familiar with 86-89 as I am with 90-92.
Oh... interesting... I deleted my post because I initially referenced delta MAP threshold as a possible culprit as well, and then noticed he had a MAF car. But it sounds like even the MAF cars have a delta-MAP parameter in the code? Or I guess this is EBL so it's something totally different?
I'm not nearly as familiar with 86-89 as I am with 90-92.
The EBL systems are MAP based. On MAF cars the harness is modified to use a MAP sensor with EBL Flash/EBL Flash II. As far as I am aware the later MAP cars use the EBL P4, but I don't own one so can't say that with certainty.
Ok I've got a quick question. I'm just about to set up my 92 K1500 with a port modded EBL Flash. It's been forever since I've wired in anything to the adc channels. I have a ZT3 wideband and controller along with a glowshift electric fuel pressure sensor. How would I wire them into the adc board?
It sounds to me like you are having enough movement in KPa that you are triggering both AE and Launch Mode. My car being a stick shift I have my LM - Delta MAP Threshold Enter maxed out to not allow it to activate. My AE - Delta Map Qualifier is still the base bin (3006) 2.19 KPa. The base LM threshold is 1.56 KPa so right there with the AE threshold value.
Unless you've got a radical cam (low LSA), your idle KPa should be pretty steady. Is this a manual car? I had to adjust my minimum iac steps to get a stable idle with clutch in while moving. Otherwise it would dip low then oscillate till it settled. Make sure your VE tables are smooth in idle area as well as no weird SA transitions at idle rpms too. If it has a large jump in either of those it can cause it to hunt.
So I saw there was a spark advance setting that I think was adding spark at idle
so I zeroed those settings out and it seems to have improved. I'm also going to check in to the KPAs for LM and AE. Thanks!
Car is auto 700r4 new blueprint 355 ELB Flah-ii
So I saw there was a spark advance setting that I think was adding spark at idle
so I zeroed those settings out and it seems to have improved. I'm also going to check in to the KPAs for LM and AE. Thanks!
Car is auto 700r4 new blueprint 355 ELB Flah-ii
Yeah even on a factory ECM they have idle adjustments via spark advance or retard....up to 5 deg eithee way on 8D. But on a modified engine it can sometimes cause erratic idle speeds, so sometimes people zero it out.
Yeah even on a factory ECM they have idle adjustments via spark advance or retard....up to 5 deg eithee way on 8D. But on a modified engine it can sometimes cause erratic idle speeds, so sometimes people zero it out.
Yep. With EBL we have SA - Idle High Compensation and Low Compensation tables. The tables are RPM vs Degree from 0-200 rpm in 50 rpm increments. The base bin I use (bin 3006 which is 5.7L with alum heads) has 0=0 and all other values are 4.92. Below are the adjustments I have made.
Well since I figured out my last question on my own I have another one. For some reason I can't get tunerpro rt V5 to save any of the new BINS. I'm trying to modify the "3005" BIN for my 92 K1500 TPI swap I just did and it's not letting me modify the BIN. It keeps saying "Could not save BIN". What am I doing wrong?
Well since I figured out my last question on my own I have another one. For some reason I can't get tunerpro rt V5 to save any of the new BINS. I'm trying to modify the "3005" BIN for my 92 K1500 TPI swap I just did and it's not letting me modify the BIN. It keeps saying "Could not save BIN". What am I doing wrong?
It's actually a safety feature to be sure that you don't modify one of the original bins.. you just need to change the location where you're saving it to save it to - your desktop for example.
Yes. There are two folders in your Dynamic EFI folder. Bins and User Bins. The base bins are located in "Bins" and your modified bins should be saved in the "User Bins"
You don't want to save over your base bins because then you have nothing to revert to if ever needing to restart or even compare against your modified tunes. Think of it this way. Months (or years in my case) can go by that you might not work on or even touch your car. It is very beneficial to be able to compare your active tune to a base tune to know what parameters have been modified and by how much. As well as having the ability to "start fresh" if you ever make broad changes to your setup. That is exactly what I did this spring after the work I did to my setup over the winter.
I have looked at I think all of the IAC settings and am not finding a setting for add steps with B9 grounded Idle speed. Is this possible to
make the speed change faster? I have been using this function, It takes some time to get the RPM up to the set point. and while it is moveing it is forcing the
idle ignition timing up and the IAC steps following the ignition timing and inverse when the B9 is ungrounded it pulls timing and walks the IAC down real slow.
If there is a setting to add steps like with the add steps for A/C it would make the rpm happen faster.
Thanks in Advance.
The only setting I see is the IAC - B9in Idle Speed which is just a RPM target value. Don't believe there are any adjustments to how quick it achieves that target value. What usage case are you using that for?
Had some questions to help figure out if I had a ECM fail or if its a wiring issue.
Back story: Some of this has been mentioned in my thread for the motor/car over in alternative port subforum. Shorter version is the car has been driving fine with no weird electrical issues over the summer. Driven once or twice a week. Last weekend I drove it into town to meet family for lunch and came out an hour later and started it up. Had a unstable idle. Backing out of the parking spot it died, partially my fault due to it being a manual car and a dummy in the parking lot causing me to react quick to stop. Restarted and the idle seemed stable. Once I pulled out of the business onto the street I instantly had severe jerking with what sounded/felt like someone flipping a switch on and off to the ignition/fuel. Check engine light popped on as well. Once going down the road out of town 55mph it was better. Still had a SES. Turned laptop on (I hadn't been logging) to see what code it was while heading home and it was Map Low Code 34. The three lights were on at that time but not on later in the drive. Came and went it seemed like. Pulled over closer to home and unplugged and plugged in the MAP connector to make sure it wasn't a connection issue. Still same symptoms when I pulled out of that parking lot. Got it home and ordered a new MAP.
Fast forward to this evening the new AC Delco MAP came in. Installed it and started the car. Idle was decent but AFRs seemed higher than shouldve been on a cold start. It had no SES light and only the far right "stored" code in the WUD. I thought I would flash my most recent BIN in it and I got an error message when doing so. This was while the car was running and WUD was actively operating normal. Thought that was odd so shut the car off. Turned the key to on and looked at the WUD. No data, spinning "data" indicator, and still wouldn't flash a BIN. Looked at the SES and it was flickering rapidly. Unplugged battery connections and reconnected and still the same. Pulled ECM fuse and reinstalled as well as unplugged ECM harness connections and reconnected.
Not really sure what to think of this. Seems like a odd sequence of events. I also attached two images showing the WUD with key on. Fuel Pump does still prime as well.
Ok guys I have another question. I think my new ebl flash has been trying to use an old xdf file V40. I see on the dynamic efi "introduction to tuning" that the current xdf file should be V31. I'm trying to get my TPI swap started up on my 92 K1500 and it's not wanting to stay running. Almost like it's ridiculously out of tune (obviously). If I am running an old xdf file, how do I obtain the new version?
V40 is the latest available far as I know. Make sure mechanicals are all good. I assume it is a TBI 350 converted to TPI? If so I would think the 3005 Base Bin would be a good start. That is the tune I started with in my TPI K5 Blazer with a stock roller 350 and iron heads.
