Electronics Need help wiring something up? Thinking of adding an electrical component to your car? Need help troubleshooting that wiring glitch?

Starter fusible link, where does it go???

Old 10-26-2006 | 08:17 PM
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Starter fusible link, where does it go???

Allright, underneath the dash of my car, near the steering column I have a red wire, 14 gage, it's a starter fusible link according to a wiring diagram off mitchell on demand, but the diagram doesn't say where it goes. Problem is I don't know where it goes either. Does anyone know where I could find out where it goes or have any suggestions and places to look. I'd like to get the car started. Also, it comes from 2 wires (they break into 3, soldered) and 2 of them go into the ignition switch while this other one is a starter fusible link, I just don't know where that goes.

-Thanks, Brandon
Old 10-29-2006 | 09:02 AM
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Old 10-29-2006 | 05:48 PM
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The starter fusible link should be under the car near the starter solenoid. The links by nature basically catch fire and isn't something you want inside the car, so someone has either installed one in your car in the wrong place (I don't see it as likely), or maybe you've misidentified them as fusible links? From the context of your post it seems like you don't know what the fusible link is?

Look underneath the car by the starter or at the fat wires near the battery. You'll see a black rubber segment in the wire about an inch long. That's a fusible link. It's basically a section of wire of smaller gauge than the rest of the wire (with extra thick insulation) designed to melt if too much current goes through the wire.

You can easily mistake a factory "splice" if you've never seen one because they use what looks like black duct tape to wrap around splices, and they use plenty of it. That's what it sounds like you're describing by how you say it "breaks into 3". Okay, I just checked some diagrams, and S200 (splice) has two wires going to the ignition switch, and two more that feed the fuse box. This may be what you're seeing?

Last edited by Jza; 10-29-2006 at 05:56 PM.
Old 11-01-2006 | 07:34 PM
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I do know what a fusible link is, but your right, I did misidentify this. I was just going by the diagramn, which obviously I looked at wrong. What I have is 2 red wires. One of them comes from the fuse panel while the other wire is part of a larger wire section that goes into the left side of the drivers footwell and goes to somwhere, probable the engine compartment. Both these wires go into a 2 wire splice. One of the wires goes up with some other wires into some wierd thing behind the gauge panel. The other wire is the one I'm lost on and I can't figure out where it goes. It's a single connector wire, and I believe it has something to do with the car not starting (or cranking for that matter, I believe it's starter related).

-Thanks, Brandon

EDIT: The one wire that does go to the fuse panel appears to go to the "CRK" or "TAIL" fuse port. And if a mod could possibly rename this since it's not a starter fusible link problem that'd be good.

Last edited by '86 350; 11-01-2006 at 07:44 PM.
Old 11-02-2006 | 06:18 PM
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Can't really follow you... Can you take and post a picture of what you're talking about?
Old 11-02-2006 | 07:28 PM
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I'll try, can't guarantee the quality or lighting of it, it's under the dash afterall.
Old 11-14-2006 | 08:51 PM
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Allright, I finally got ahold of one. Anyways, here are the pictures I got:

First off, here's the connector I'm referring to:



Here's the splice between the wires, one of them goes up into the dash near the gauges with another wiring loom, while the other one is the one that I can't find a place for:



And here's where the wires come from. One comes from the fuse box like I mentioned while the other on is part of this loom that runs up into the drivers footwell of the car (and possibly into the dash or outside of the firewall, I didn't check). Here's the loom:



-Thanks, Brandon
Old 11-16-2006 | 04:30 PM
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Any help?
Old 11-16-2006 | 09:27 PM
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Also, I'm using a 10 or 12 gage wire to jump from the 'S' post on my solenoid to my battery positive. Nothing seems to be happening. It sorta arcs on the battery post, but won't crank nor will the starter engage. Could this mean a bad solenoid?
Old 11-17-2006 | 01:24 AM
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I'm not too familiar with the wiring in these cars, but that doesn't look like a splice the way I think the factory would have done it..
Yes, the solenoid sounds bad, or it could be the brushes are worn down. Does the interior or dash lamps dim slightly when you turn the key?
Try to hit the starter with a hammer (not too hard) or some tool and see if that gets it going.

Last edited by Fullsizewagon; 11-17-2006 at 01:28 AM.
Old 11-17-2006 | 11:24 AM
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That splice has one or two wires that go to the fusebox, one goes to the bulkhead connector (and out through the firewall), and the other two go to the steering wheel connectors (one on each connector).

That connector you're showing looks familiar, but I don't recall seeing one with a red wire INSIDE the car. For example the underhood light is a red wire with that kind of connector. 86 has one coming out of the cruise module (a red wire with gray connector). But I can't remember if it was even connected to anything or was just taped up inside the harness. Does the wire in your pic have a real sharp bend in the wire (as if it was folded and taped up)?
The HVAC has a wire with that connector but it's brown, and the seat belt has one, but it's brown or black (can't remember). The rear defroster has one or two of those connectors, that's that chunky purple wire in the third pic. Somewhere along that circuit the wire is red though (since it's keyed power), but I don't think it has a connector like that. If I remember, it had one similar, that jacked into the back or front of the fusebox on one of those empty IGN sockets.
Old 11-18-2006 | 08:36 AM
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The wire there doesn't have any sharp bends or anything. Also, there's no cruise control or underhood light on this car, so it wouldn't be that. So do you think that this connector would be ignition related and causing the car not to crank? Also, do you know why the car wouldn't even crank the starter when I went from the 's' post on the solenoid and to the positive battery terminal?
Old 11-22-2006 | 11:12 PM
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Old 11-27-2006 | 02:33 PM
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Old 11-28-2006 | 06:32 PM
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Allright, I made some progres, but then it just backfired again. I jumped the battery of off another vehicle and went to try to start the car. Well the battery was mostly dead so I didn't expect it too start but I was hoping it would just crank over. Well I put the key in the igntion and sure I enough I turned it to crank and the car turned over once before killing the battery. I let it get some more juice in it again, and tried again. It turned over again but still didn't have enough of a charge to keep it going. Well I let it sit for a little longer. I went to try just cranking it over again and this time no go. The ignition switch is brand new (that's where this problem all started) and everything that should be necessary to hook up is hooked up. I've tried several times since and still it won't even crank. I tried jumping the starter from the s-post of the solenoid to the battey positive but it didn't work. I'm not sure if this is because the battery is just too dead or if it just won't go. There's little blue arcing off the battery post but it won't engage the starter or the solenoid won't click. Could this just be the low battery or could the solenoid be bad? I'm assuming that this red wire actually does have nothing to do with igntion problems because the car cranked over without it.

Also, I'm using the igntion switch for an automatic car which I suppose could be part of the problem. The car is a manaul transmission car, but was originally an automatic, therefore I assumed the igntion switch was for an automatic. There was never a neutral safety switch for the clutch, so that doens't matter. I bought both an automatic and manual one. The one originally in the car was indeed an automatic. I replaced it with one for a manual tranny car. No go. It did the same thing and dead igntion switch would do except it was brand new. I got an automatic one and put that in. So right now, I'm just really confused on what my problem could be for the no crank situation and if anyone could offer any suggestions that'd be great.

-Thanks, Brandon
Old 11-29-2006 | 01:44 AM
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Get your battery charged first, then respond to our responses. You may have to get a test instrument also in order to contribute any useful data. That blue arc should draw around 40 Amps, that's why I asked if any lamps dimmed when you try to crank.
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