formula forever

After the sfc I notice a very bad wheel hop when I lauch from a dig. It has all stock suspension except for some sway bars and a wonderbar. stock ride height. Im looking into umi for some lca and a panhard bar. I have some questions. whichever ones I get they have to withstand being driven around town on some bumpy roads. do i need the relocation brackets? which panhard would you recommend? which lca would you recommend from umi. any help would be great.

midias

Any non adjustable from spoon or founders should work for the LCA. I would also add LCA relocation brackets.

I got mine from founders. I found them to be well machined and they cam with the proper size fine thread M12 hardware. Also the bolt holes were not sloppy.

http://www.foundersperformance.com/p...-Brackets.html

Reid Fleming

iTrader: (2)

First thing I would do is new rear shocks. Good rear shocks will aid in transfering the energy when you take off so that wheel hop is minimized as well as boost your comfort level when any transitions occur. By transition, I mean pulling out of a parking lot and getting on the gas pedal. The car will spin the tires for a bit. But letting off the gas will result in a lot more control and a lot less sloshing around while the tires regain traction. Biiiiiig difference. This was one of the very first things I noticed with the Konis was that borderline unknowns situations became a lot more predictable.

LCA: If you're going with UMI, I would spend the extra money and get the RotoJoint setup on both ends. I'm not a fan of poly in LCA's for a variety of reasons. One of them being mentioned here:
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/susp...ca-squawk.html

I don't think poly is the high performance yet comfortable solution that people think it is. I think it is a mid performance yet still stiff as nails solution that many regret and wish they went with a better setup. The rotojoints will have no squeeking. No bind. Better feel during normal driving. (More predictable) Yeah, a pothole will feel worse than it would with rubber. But a pothole is going to be just as jarring with poly too. Think of the comfort level as being rubber = 0 (best), poly = 5, rotojoint = 6, spherical bearing = 10 (worst)

Save the money on PHB for now. They're more for cornering than straight line movement. Spend that money on the best set of shocks you can get.

I wouldn't do the relocation brackets.

formula forever

thanks guys. Looks like I have an idea on what to look at. its my xmas present from my girl lol. I was thinking umi or founds would be good.

11ellswray

iTrader: (1)

My lakewood boxed lca's don't squawk but they may bind a little when cornering. If your budget allows a panhard bar I would get one and don't look back. I LOVE mine, for the money I don't think there are many better places to spend it. Get yourself an adjustable bar so that you can center your axle under the car. Also check the angle of your stock Lca's when the car is sitting at ride height, if your springs are stock your sitting lower than the car was when it was new. Lcarb's were designed with a lowered car in mind, and due to age your car may be considerably lower than stock height. Food for thought.

midias

X2 on mine. They dont make any sound.

11ellswray

iTrader: (1)

Every time I service the car I add a good couple pumps of grease to keep them lubricated. and they are a snug fit in where they attach at both ends

midias

Same, mine also fit nicely with my relocation brackets.

I run intrax springs and my lower control arms were pointing a little up when the car was on the ground.

83 Crossfire TA

iTrader: (2)

first- SFC didn't cause wheel hop, and you can have a hard launching, good cornering car without aftermarket LCA. If you have wheel hop, something is broken or loose. PERIOD. I've had people argue with me about this before, swear that they checked everything, and then when I looked at the car I found it in a few minutes.

That said: if you want LCA's for street use I honestly would just use good stockers (for years my "race car" used boxed stockers, with rubber bushings in them and I never had a problem with them), even for moderate performance use. They don't deal with that much stress in this suspension design and the stock setup is durable and absorbs road noise and bumps well. Even for moderate track use, they are not the first thing on my list, the first thing that i would recommend in the rear suspension is an aftermarket PHR, it's just too long for the u channel construction (smaller than the LCAs too), and it does flex and cause suspension miladies even in moderate performance use (take a care with a stock suspension and a manual transmission or a hard shifting auto to the dragstrip and you'll see it jump sideways on the 1-2 shift, that's the PHR flexing).

As far as bushings... yea, in an all out handling use poly can bind. Keep it lubed and it won't bind (most poly bushings come with a super sticky silicon lube that is impossible to get off the bushing once you have it on there). At the dragstrip I doubt anyone can prove that it would bind even if it wasn't lubed (still, keep it lubed). Rotojoints are surprisingly stiffer than you expect them to be, I'm not sure if I'm sold on them. Rod ends, yea, they have no way to bind or deflect, but they also transfer every bit of road noise and wear out if not protected (I do run some on the street, I don't recommend them, and I also cut poly tie rod end boots to fit over the joints to keep dirt out and surround them in grease). If they fail, unlike any kind of bushing or rotojoint the end of the part breaks off.

LCA relo brackets.... don't buy into all the hype. You don't really need them unless you're drag racing. For autox, road racing and street use the rear LCA will work best if they are sloped slightly upward from the front to the rear joint. In straight line use, the more they slope downward the more anti-squat the rear suspension will have (antisquat pushes uses some of the twisting force of the axle to push the axle/tires downward against the pavement). Too much anti-squat can be a bad thing. Your tires have to give to absorb the anti-squat, so the stiffer and or shorter the sidwalls are the less anti-squat you can use before your tires will just bounce off the pavement. I've tested it and videoed it with 17" tires on my 4th gen (I lost the video years ago :-/ ), with the arms slightly down (I was in the middle hole) I was getting enough anti-squat that on a hard launch the tires would push down into the pavement, biting hard for about the first 10' before the sidewalls couldn't flex any more. The rims would almost touch the pavement and then the whole thing would just bounce off the pavement and completely loose traction. There's a similar product for fox mustangs that it wasn't uncommon for them to do the same, having the rims actually hit the pavement. If you're not running TALL drag tires (like at least a 26-28" tire on a 15" rim), these are not the miracle traction cure that people make them out to be, and in a more handling oriented application they upset things coming into a turn.