Performed a T-5 swap this weekend. Put a 1986 T-5 setup in a 1985 Z28.

I needed pedals so I used 4th gen pedals and a 4th gen master clutch cylinder. Running a third gen slave cylinder which has a cast housing and bleeder screw.

I bled the circuit well. I have to mash the clutch to the floor to shift and the clutch grabs very quickly on release.

I understand the 4th gen clutch pedal has shorter travel and moves less fluid.

Has anyone else had this problem and solved it. I was thinking I could put a pin 1” lowerr on the arm to get increased travel move more fluid. Or is there an aftermarket master cylinder that moves more fluid to have a better cklutch?

Everything else about the swap went smooth and the donor car and receiver car had same rear gears (3.23 open diff on both).

TIA

PCOPP

 

Both tick and hawks make an adjustable master.

 

Did you check clutch preload before install? Too much of a gap will eat up clutch pedal travel.

 

Plenty of preload. It was a b _ _ _ _ bolting in the slave cylinder. I was reusing the one from my son’s 1986. A new slave has a plastic cage that keeps it depressed during install and breaks open on first clutch actuation.

I am pretty certain I need a little more MC travel. Either I move the poiun down on the arm to ride a longer arc, or there is a dfiffernt MC that pushes more fluid. Or I swap in Third gen pedals.

Ironically, the 1986 was swapped to a T56 and the 3rd gen pedal overstrokes the slave so the fork was rubbing on the flywheel. We clearanced the fork and that car has a good clutch.

I guess I could swap the pedals between the 1985 and the 1986. Ther T56 clutch is a pull style and I guess needs less travel. Just a pain to disassemble the 1986 since it is running OK. Hate to shift the problem.

 

Both Tick and Hawks use a Tilton 875 series master cylinder with 1 inch stroke. I think stock equivalent is 3/4 inch diameter. A lot of people use 7/8 inch diameter with T56. You'll have to ask which one they're selling, and then get it customized to your spec if it's not what you want.

 

I had the same issue. 4th gen pedals and 3rd gen hydraulics. I moved the pin on the pedal, problems solved.

 

You recall how much you moved it down?

 

Tick designed theirs. And then sold to Hawks for resale. Hawks then sourced overseas. Hawks then let Tick warranty parts they didn't buy from Tick. There are decisions you should make before supporting a vendor.

Change in pin height is addressed in detail in one of these.
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tran...pedal-mod.html https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...e-4th-gen.html

 

After talking to a few people, I opted to move the pin down to increase the pin travel and stroke the clutch mc more.

We just removed the clutch pedal by pulling the bolt that holds the pedal to the bracket. My fourth gen pedals did not have a spring.

The factory clutch pin which takes the retaining clip is actually a rivet. We groiund off the rivet head and punched it out. The hole was 1/2”. We put a 1/2” hole 1” lower and inserted the pin and rosette welded the back side.

Put it back together and voila….clutch is good.

So, I have completed a 305 tp 350 and long block swap keeping the 305 TPI intake and swapped in a T-5 for a 700R4 using 4th gen pedals.

Car is a blast. I am getting new upholstery delivered tonight. Will finish that this weekend then install new AC compressor and I am driving the wheels off it!

Thanks to everyone who chimed in with help and advice. If anyone has any questions on what I did, HUM.

PCOPP in NJ - 1985 Z28 TPI with T-5, 5.7L